Porchetta

Step 1: Lay 6 ⅝ lb pork belly with loin attached, skin on skin side down. If the loin is attached, score the belly meat in a criss-cross 1 cm deep; if separate, butterfly the loin so it lies flatter.

Step 2: Mix 8 garlic, 3 tbsp rosemary, 10 sage leaves, 2 tbsp fennel seeds, 1 lemon, ½ tsp chilli flakes, 2 tsp black pepper and most of the ¾ tbsp salt with 2 tbsp olive oil, and rub it hard into the meat side and into the cuts.

Step 3: Roll the belly tightly around the loin, skin outside, and tie it with kitchen string every 3 cm. Pat the skin dry, prick it all over with a skewer and rub in the rest of the ¼ tbsp salt.

Step 4: Put the roll on a rack over a tray and leave it uncovered in the fridge overnight so the skin dries and the seasoning sinks in.

Step 5: Take it out of the fridge 1 hour before cooking. Heat the oven to 325°F, put the roll on its rack over a roasting tin and roast for about 3½ hours.

Step 6: Check the centre of the loin: it is safe from 145°F, but for porchetta keep going until it reads about 158°F and a skewer slides through the belly with no resistance, which is what makes the layers melting and tender.

Step 7: Turn the oven up to 450°F and roast for 20–30 minutes more, turning the tray, until the skin is puffed, blistered and crackles when tapped. Don't baste it: wet skin is the most common reason the crackling stays chewy.

Step 8: Rest the porchetta for at least 20 minutes before carving, which also lets the juices settle (well beyond the minimum 3 minutes for safety).

Step 9: Snip off the string and cut into thin slices with a serrated knife, breaking up the crackling. Pile into 10 crusty white rolls with a spoonful of the juices.