Pozole rojo

Step 1: Put 2 ¼ lb boneless pork shoulder, 1 ⅛ lb pork spare ribs or neck bones and 14 ½ cups water in a large pot (at least 7 litres). Bring to the boil over a high heat and skim off the grey foam for the first 5 minutes.

Step 2: Add 1 white onion, 1 head garlic, 2 bay leaves and 1 tbsp salt, turn the heat down and simmer, partly covered, for 1½ hours, until the pork is nearly tender.

Step 3: Meanwhile, toast 8 dried guajillo chillies and 2 dried ancho chillies in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 15–20 seconds a side, pressing them flat, until they smell fruity and turn slightly brighter. Common mistake: letting them blacken. Burnt chillies make the whole pot bitter, so take them off as soon as they blister.

Step 4: Cover the chillies with boiling water and soak for 20 minutes, until soft.

Step 5: Drain the chillies and blend with 3 cloves garlic, ¼ tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano and 300 ml of the pork broth from the pot until completely smooth.

Step 6: Lift out and discard the onion, garlic and bay. Press the chilli purée through a sieve into the pot, then add 2 ¼ lb cooked white hominy (maíz pozolero).

Step 7: Simmer gently for 45 minutes more, until the pork falls apart when pressed with a spoon and the hominy kernels have opened slightly like flowers. Pull out any loose bones. Add more water if it is too thick; pozole should be brothy.

Step 8: Taste and add salt: the broth needs more than you think once the hominy is in. Skim off excess fat if you like.

Step 9: Ladle into deep bowls and let everyone add 0.3 head white cabbage or iceberg lettuce, 8 radishes, 1 white onion, a squeeze from 3 limes, a pinch of 2 tbsp dried Mexican oregano rubbed between the palms and ground dried chilli (piquín) or chilli flakes, with 12 crisp-fried corn tortillas (tostadas) on the side. Cool leftovers quickly and refrigerate for up to 3 days.