Puttu and kadala curry

Step 1: Soak 7 oz black chickpeas (kala chana) overnight in plenty of water; they will swell to double. Drain, then cook with 3 cups water and 1 tsp salt in a pressure cooker for 6–7 whistles (about 25 minutes) or in a covered pot for 60–75 minutes, until soft enough to crush between your fingers. Keep the cooking water.

Step 2: Meanwhile, dry-roast 2 ⅛ oz fresh grated coconut in a heavy pan over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for 6–8 minutes until it turns an even deep brown and smells toasted. Lower the heat and add 1 ½ tbsp ground coriander, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ½ tsp garam masala and ½ tsp ground black pepper and stir for 30 seconds. This roasted coconut gives kadala curry its dark colour and smoky depth; stop before it blackens.

Step 3: Cool for a few minutes, then grind to a smooth paste with 100 ml of the chickpea cooking water.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a pan over a medium heat. Pop 1 tsp black mustard seeds, then add 2 dried red chillies and half of 15 fresh curry leaves. Add 1 onion and cook for 6–7 minutes until golden brown.

Step 5: Add 1 tbsp fresh ginger, 4 cloves garlic and 2 green chillies and cook for 1 minute, then add 1 tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft.

Step 6: Add the roasted coconut paste and fry for 2 minutes until it darkens and smells rich. Add the chickpeas with enough of their cooking water to make a thick gravy, and simmer for 10 minutes. Mash a ladleful of chickpeas to thicken it. Stir in the rest of the curry leaves.

Step 7: For the puttu, mix 9 oz roasted rice flour (puttu podi) and ½ tsp salt in a wide bowl. Sprinkle in ¾ cup water a few spoonfuls at a time, rubbing it through with your fingertips, until every grain is evenly damp and a handful holds together when squeezed but breaks apart when poked. Break up any lumps; pulse in a grinder if needed. Rest for 10 minutes.

Step 8: Bring water to the boil in the base of a puttu maker (or a pressure cooker with the weight off, a steamer, or a clean coconut-shell mould). Put the perforated disc in the cylinder, then layer 2 tablespoons of 2 ⅞ oz fresh grated coconut, 6 tablespoons of flour, more coconut, more flour, and finish with coconut. Fill loosely; never press it down.

Step 9: Steam for 6–8 minutes, until steam pours steadily out of the top for at least 2 minutes. Push the puttu out onto a plate with the plunger. Repeat with the rest. In a regular steamer, steam the layered flour in small bowls for 10 minutes.

Step 10: Serve the hot puttu with the kadala curry poured over or alongside, and 2 ripe bananas if you like, mashing everything together with your fingers as Keralites do.