Raclette

Step 1: Put 2 ⅝ lb small waxy potatoes in a large pan, cover with cold water and add 1 tbsp salt. Bring to the boil over a high heat, then lower to a steady simmer.

Step 2: Simmer for 18–22 minutes, until a knife slides into the largest potato with no resistance but the skins have not burst. Drain, return to the pan and cover with a tea towel and the lid to keep them hot and dry.

Step 3: Meanwhile heat the raclette grill on high for 10 minutes. Put 5 ½ oz cornichons, 5 ½ oz pickled silverskin onions, 1 tsp black pepper and 1 tsp sweet paprika in small bowls on the table. Lay the slices of 1 ¾ lb raclette cheese on a board.

Step 4: Each guest lays a slice of cheese in a small pan and slides it under the grill. A common mistake is pulling it out too soon: wait 3–4 minutes until the cheese bubbles all over and the edges turn golden and smell toasty.

Step 5: Halve a hot potato on your plate, crush it lightly with a fork and scrape the melted cheese over it with the wooden spatula. Grind over pepper, dust with paprika if you like, and eat with a cornichon and an onion between bites.

Step 6: Carry on one pan at a time through the meal. If you have a half-wheel and a raclette heater, melt the cut face until it blisters and scrape it straight onto the plate with a knife, the Valais way.