Rillettes de Tours

Step 1: Melt 5 ½ oz lard in a heavy casserole over a low heat. Add 1 ⅛ lb pork belly, rind removed and stir until the fat starts to run.

Step 2: Add 2 ¼ lb boneless pork shoulder, ¾ cup water, 2 tsp fine salt, 3 thyme sprigs, 2 bay leaves and 2 garlic cloves. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook over the lowest heat, stirring every 30 minutes.

Step 3: The meat is ready when it is completely fork-tender and breaks apart when pressed against the side of the pot. Uncover, raise the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring, until the water has evaporated and the meat turns light golden in the fat.

Step 4: Remove the herbs and garlic. Tip the meat into a sieve over a bowl to catch the fat, and leave both to cool a little.

Step 5: Shred the warm meat with two forks, or pound it briefly with a pestle, adding back fat a spoonful at a time until soft and spreadable. Season with 1 tsp black pepper, ¼ tsp ground nutmeg and more salt to taste. Don't use a food processor: it turns rillettes into paste instead of soft threads.

Step 6: Pack into clean jars or ramekins, pressing down to get rid of air, then pour a 5 mm layer of the remaining fat on top to seal.

Step 7: Cool, cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours before eating. Keep in the fridge for up to 7 days, and once opened eat within 3 days. Serve at room temperature with 1 crusty bread or gluten-free bread and 20 cornichons.