Risi e bisi

Step 1: Pod 2 ¼ lb fresh peas in their pods. Rinse the pods, put them in a pan with 5 cups light vegetable stock and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Strain, pressing the pods to get all the flavour, and keep the broth hot. (With frozen peas, simply heat the stock.)

Step 2: Melt half of ½ oz butter with 1 tbsp olive oil in a heavy pan over a medium-low heat. Add ½ white onion and half of 1 ½ tbsp flat-leaf parsley and cook gently for 5 minutes until soft.

Step 3: Add the peas and a ladle of broth and cook for 3 minutes, until bright green.

Step 4: Add 7 oz vialone nano or arborio rice and stir for 1 minute, then pour in about 900 ml of the broth and ¾ tsp salt. Simmer gently, stirring now and then, for 15–17 minutes, until the rice is tender.

Step 5: It should be loose enough to pour slowly from a ladle; add more broth if needed. Common mistake: letting it dry out into a regular risotto; risi e bisi is meant to be eaten with a spoon.

Step 6: Off the heat, stir in the rest of ½ oz butter and 1 ½ tbsp flat-leaf parsley, 1 oz Parmigiano Reggiano and ¼ tsp white or black pepper. Rest for 2 minutes and serve in shallow bowls.