Mushroom risotto

Step 1: Soak ⅔ oz dried porcini in 250 ml of boiling water for 15 minutes. Lift them out, squeeze and chop. Pour the soaking liquid through a paper towel into 4 ½ cups vegetable stock, leaving the grit behind, and keep the stock at a low simmer.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Add 12 ½ oz chestnut mushrooms in one layer and leave them alone for 2 minutes, then stir and cook 4 minutes more until browned and the pan is dry. Add 1 clove garlic and half the ½ tsp salt for the last minute. Set aside.

Step 3: In a wide heavy pan, melt half the ⅞ oz butter over a medium-low heat and soften 2 shallots for 4 minutes. Add the chopped porcini and cook 1 minute.

Step 4: Add 11 ½ oz carnaroli or arborio rice and toast for 2 minutes, stirring, until the grains look translucent at the edges. Pour in ½ cup dry white wine and let it bubble away.

Step 5: Add hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each is almost absorbed. After 10 minutes, stir in half of the browned mushrooms.

Step 6: Continue for 6–8 minutes more, until the rice is creamy with a slight bite. Common mistake: cooking it until soft and stodgy; take it off the heat while the centre of the grain still has a tiny chalky dot, as it keeps cooking.

Step 7: Off the heat, beat in the rest of ⅞ oz butter, 1 ¾ oz Parmigiano Reggiano, the rest of ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper. Cover and rest for 2 minutes.

Step 8: Serve topped with the remaining mushrooms and 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley.