Rogan josh

Step 1: Pat 2 ¼ lb bone-in lamb (shoulder or leg) dry with kitchen paper. Wash your hands, board and knife well after handling raw meat.

Step 2: Heat 5 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pot over a high heat until it just smokes, then turn the heat to medium and let it cool for 1 minute. Mustard oil must reach smoking point first to lose its raw, sharp taste.

Step 3: Add ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing), 4 cloves, 2 black cardamom, 5 green cardamom, 2 in cinnamon stick and 2 bay leaves and stir for 20 seconds, until fragrant.

Step 4: Add the lamb in two batches and sear over a medium-high heat for 5–6 minutes a batch, turning, until browned on all sides. Return all the meat to the pot.

Step 5: Mix 2 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder with 4 tbsp water to a paste and stir it in. Cook for 1 minute over a medium heat so it colours the oil without scorching.

Step 6: Turn the heat to low and add 9 oz full-fat plain yogurt a large spoonful at a time, stirring after each, until all is in. Common mistake: tipping in cold yogurt all at once over a high heat; it splits into grainy curds instead of a smooth sauce.

Step 7: Raise the heat to medium and stir for 8–10 minutes, until the yogurt has been absorbed and red oil starts to separate at the edges.

Step 8: Stir in 2 tsp ground fennel seeds, 1 ½ tsp ground dry ginger (sonth) and 1 ½ tsp salt, then pour in 2 cups hot water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 70–80 minutes, stirring now and then, until the lamb is tender enough to pull from the bone with a spoon.

Step 9: Uncover and simmer for 5 minutes more to thicken the gravy, until it coats the meat and a layer of red oil floats on top. Stir in ½ tsp garam masala and 1 pinch saffron threads, if using.

Step 10: Turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving. Rogan josh keeps for 3 days in the fridge and tastes even better the next day; reheat until piping hot all the way through.