Scagliuozzi

Step 1: Bring 4 ¼ cups water and 2 tsp fine salt to the boil in a heavy pan. Rain in 9 oz coarse polenta (cornmeal) in a thin stream, whisking all the time so no lumps form.

Step 2: Turn the heat to low and cook for 30–35 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon every few minutes, until the polenta is very thick and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Stir in ½ tsp black pepper.

Step 3: Brush a 20 × 30 cm tray with 1 tbsp olive oil, spread the polenta about 1.5 cm thick and smooth the top with a wet spatula. Cool, then chill for at least 2 hours or overnight, until firm enough to slice cleanly.

Step 4: Turn the slab onto a board and cut into 5 cm squares, then cut each square diagonally into triangles. Pat any damp surfaces dry with kitchen paper.

Step 5: Pour 4 ¼ cups sunflower or peanut oil into a deep, heavy pan, no more than a third of the way up the side, and heat to 350°F. Check with a thermometer, or drop in a cube of bread: it should brown in about 60 seconds. Never leave hot oil unattended.

Step 6: Fry the triangles 5 or 6 at a time for 4–5 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and blistered. Common mistake: crowding the pan; the oil cools, the polenta soaks it up and the pieces stick together.

Step 7: Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with 1 tsp flaky sea salt. Serve hot in a paper cone.