Spaghetti alla Nerano

Step 1: Heat ¾ cup olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat until a slice of courgette sizzles gently when dropped in.

Step 2: Fry 1 ⅓ lb courgettes in 2 or 3 batches, turning once, until golden on both sides and soft. Lift them onto kitchen paper and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Common mistake: crowding the pan, which steams the slices grey instead of browning them.

Step 3: Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil. Put about two-thirds of the courgettes back in the pan with 1 clove garlic and half the basil, and set aside off the heat.

Step 4: Bring 4 litres of water to the boil and add 1 tbsp salt. Cook 12 ½ oz dried spaghetti until about 2 minutes short of al dente. Keep 2 mugfuls of the cooking water.

Step 5: Fish out the garlic. Add a ladle of pasta water to the courgettes and mash some of them with a fork so they start to break down.

Step 6: Lift the pasta into the pan and toss over a medium heat, adding pasta water a little at a time, until it is al dente and the liquid looks starchy.

Step 7: Take the pan off the heat. Add 3 ½ oz provolone del Monaco or mild provolone, 1 oz Parmigiano Reggiano and ½ oz unsalted butter and toss hard, adding more water, until the cheese melts into a creamy, clinging sauce.

Step 8: Serve topped with the remaining courgette slices, the rest of 15 basil leaves and ¼ tsp black pepper.