Spanakopita

Step 1: Wilt 2 ¼ lb spinach in batches in a large dry pan over a medium heat, turning with tongs, for 2–3 minutes per batch until it collapses and turns deep green. Tip into a colander.

Step 2: When it is cool enough to handle, squeeze the spinach hard in a clean tea towel until no more water runs out, then chop it roughly. You should have a tight ball about the size of two fists.

Step 3: Warm 3 tbsp olive oil in the same pan over a medium-low heat. Cook 1 onion and 8 spring onions for 6–8 minutes, until soft and sweet but not brown.

Step 4: In a bowl mix the spinach, onions, 1 oz dill, ½ oz flat-leaf parsley, 10 ½ oz feta cheese, 2 eggs, ¼ tsp nutmeg and ½ tsp black pepper. Taste a little before adding the eggs if you are unsure about salt; feta usually brings enough.

Step 5: Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan). Brush a 23 × 33 cm baking tin with some of ½ cup olive oil. Keep the 16 oz fillo pastry under a damp tea towel while you work so it doesn't crack.

Step 6: Lay in 6 sheets, brushing each with oil and letting the edges hang over the sides. Spread the filling evenly.

Step 7: Fold the overhanging edges back over the filling, then cover with the remaining sheets, brushing each one. Tuck the edges down the sides of the tin.

Step 8: Score the top layers into 8 squares with a sharp knife, cutting only through the pastry, not the filling. Brush with the last of the oil, flick a few drops of water over the top and scatter with 1 tbsp sesame seeds if you like.

Step 9: Bake for 45–50 minutes, until deep golden all over and crisp enough to rustle when you tap it. Pale pastry will turn soft as it cools, so give it the full time.

Step 10: Rest for 15 minutes, then cut along the scored lines. Keeps 2 days in the fridge; reheat at 350°F for 10 minutes to re-crisp.