Spas

Step 1: Drain 3 ½ oz hulled wheat (dzavar) or pearl barley, cover with fresh water in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 30–35 minutes, until the grains are tender but still chewy. Drain. (Pearl barley needs about 25 minutes.)

Step 2: In a large pan, whisk 1 ⅔ lb plain whole-milk yogurt, 1 egg and 1 tbsp plain flour until completely smooth. Whisk in 2 cups water a little at a time to a pouring consistency.

Step 3: Set the pan over a medium-low heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, always in the same direction, scraping the bottom. After 8–10 minutes the soup steams and thickens slightly; keep stirring until the first bubbles break the surface.

Step 4: A common mistake is turning up the heat or walking away at this stage: the yogurt splits into grainy curds. Keep it at a lazy simmer and stir for 3 more minutes once it bubbles; it is now stable.

Step 5: Add the cooked wheat and 1 tsp salt and simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring often, until the soup coats the back of the spoon.

Step 6: Meanwhile melt 1 ⅜ oz butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 1 onion for 6–8 minutes until golden, then take off the heat and stir in 2 tsp dried mint; it should sizzle and smell sharply of mint for a few seconds.

Step 7: Stir most of the onion butter into the soup and spoon the rest on top. Serve hot, or chill for at least 3 hours and serve cold, scattered with ⅓ oz fresh coriander or dill.