Speculaas

Step 1: Mix 4 tsp ground cinnamon, 1 tsp ground nutmeg, 1 tsp ground cloves, ½ tsp ground ginger, ½ tsp ground cardamom, ¼ tsp ground white pepper and ¼ tsp ground aniseed. You will use it all; it smells strong, which is right.

Step 2: Mix 10 ½ oz plain flour, 1 tsp baking powder, ¼ tsp salt and the spice mix. In another bowl beat 6 oz butter with 7 oz dark brown soft sugar until smooth, then add the flour mixture and 3 tbsp milk and knead briefly into a firm, smooth dough.

Step 3: Flatten into a disc, wrap and chill overnight, or at least 2 hours.

Step 4: Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan) and line two trays with baking paper. Roll the dough between two sheets of paper to 4 mm thick and cut into rectangles or shapes. Re-roll the trimmings once.

Step 5: Press a few 1 ¾ oz flaked almonds onto each biscuit. If you have a wooden speculaas mould, dust it with flour, press the dough in, trim and tap out.

Step 6: Bake for 12–15 minutes, until they smell toasty and the edges darken slightly; they will still be a little soft. The common mistake is waiting for them to harden in the oven, by which point the edges have burnt and taste bitter.

Step 7: Cool on the tray for 5 minutes, then on a rack, where they crisp up. Store in an airtight tin for up to 3 weeks.