Shaobing with youtiao

Step 1: For the youtiao, mix 9 oz plain flour, 1 ½ tsp baking powder, ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. Add ¾ cup water and stir to a shaggy dough, then add 1 tbsp vegetable oil and knead for 3–4 minutes until smooth and soft. Cover and leave at room temperature for at least 1 hour.

Step 2: For the shaobing, mix 10 ½ oz plain flour, ½ tsp instant dried yeast and ½ tsp salt, add ¾ cup warm water and knead for 5 minutes into a smooth, soft dough. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.

Step 3: Make the layering paste: warm ¼ cup vegetable oil in a small pan until hot but not smoking, pour it over 2 ⅞ oz plain flour and ½ tsp salt in a heatproof bowl and stir to a smooth, spreadable paste. Let it cool for 5 minutes.

Step 4: Roll the shaobing dough into a rectangle about 40 x 25 cm. Spread the paste evenly over it, leaving a 1 cm border, then roll it up tightly from the long side like a Swiss roll.

Step 5: Cut the roll into 4 pieces. Pinch the cut ends closed, flatten each piece and roll it out gently into a long rectangle about 20 x 8 cm and 6–7 mm thick. Don't press too hard, or you squash the layers.

Step 6: Heat the oven to 450°F. Brush the top of each bread with 1 tsp sugar dissolved in 2 tbsp water and press the wet side into 1 ⅜ oz white sesame seeds so it is thickly coated. Lay them seed-side up on a lined baking tray and rest for 10 minutes.

Step 7: Bake for 15–18 minutes, until puffed, the sesame is golden and the edges flake when touched. Keep them warm wrapped in a clean tea towel.

Step 8: While the bread bakes, heat 1 litre vegetable oil in a wok or deep pan to 375°F. Never leave hot oil unattended, and keep the pan at the back of the hob.

Step 9: Oil your work surface lightly, turn out the rested youtiao dough and stretch it into a strip 10 cm wide and 1 cm thick. Cut into 8 strips about 2 cm wide.

Step 10: Lay one strip on top of another and press down the centre lengthways with a chopstick to stick them together. Repeat to make 4 pairs.

Step 11: Hold a pair by both ends, stretch it gently to about 25 cm and lower it into the oil. Turn it constantly with chopsticks for 1–2 minutes, until it puffs to twice its size and is deep golden all over.

Step 12: Drain on a rack and fry the rest, letting the oil come back to 375°F between each.

Step 13: Split each warm shaobing open along one long side, tuck in a youtiao (fold it in half if needed) and press closed. Serve at once, with soy milk.