Tamales de chipilín

Step 1: Soak 14 dried corn husks or banana leaves in hot water for 30 minutes until soft. If using banana leaves, pass them over a flame for a few seconds until glossy and pliable, and cut into 25 cm squares.

Step 2: Beat 5 ½ oz vegetable shortening with 1 ½ tsp baking powder and 1 ½ tsp salt for 3 minutes until pale and fluffy. Add 14 oz masa harina for tamales and 2 cups warm vegetable stock in turns, beating for 5 minutes more into a soft dough like thick hummus.

Step 3: Fold in 2 ⅛ oz chipilín leaves, fresh or frozen until evenly speckled. Drop a small piece of masa into cold water: if it floats, it is ready; if it sinks, beat for 2 more minutes.

Step 4: Spread 3 heaped tablespoons of masa over the wide half of each husk in a 10 by 8 cm rectangle, put a cube of 5 ½ oz queso fresco or Chiapas cream cheese in the centre and fold the sides over to enclose it, then fold up the tail. Common mistake: overfilling; the cheese melts out and the tamal splits.

Step 5: Stand the tamales upright in a steamer lined with spare husks, pack them snugly and steam, covered, over a medium heat for 70 minutes, topping up with boiling water. They are done when the masa peels away cleanly from the husk.

Step 6: Rest them off the heat for 10 minutes to firm up, then serve with warm 1 cup cooked tomato salsa spooned over.