Tejate

Step 1: Toast 2 ⅛ oz raw cacao beans in a dry comal or heavy pan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the shells crackle, darken and smell of chocolate.

Step 2: Tip the beans onto a cloth, rub and peel off the shells while warm. Discard the shells.

Step 3: If the ½ oz mamey seed kernel (pixtle) is not already roasted, toast it in the same pan over low heat until dark brown right through and smelling like bitter almond, then cool and chop. Use only this amount.

Step 4: Toast ½ oz dried rosita de cacao flowers over low heat for 1–2 minutes, just until fragrant and a shade darker; they burn quickly and turn bitter.

Step 5: Grind the cacao, pixtle and rosita in a spice grinder to a fine, slightly oily powder.

Step 6: Put 1 ⅛ lb fresh nixtamal masa (unflavoured corn dough) in a large bowl or food processor with the powder and grind or knead together, adding ¾ cup cold water a spoonful at a time, until you have a smooth, stiff, chocolate-brown paste with no grit between your fingers.

Step 7: Pass the paste through the processor or a metate a second time to make it as fine as possible.

Step 8: For the syrup, simmer 5 ½ oz sugar with ¾ cup water over medium heat until dissolved and clear. Let it cool completely.

Step 9: Put the paste in a large, wide bowl. Add about 250 ml of the 1 ¼ cups cold water and work it in with one hand, squeezing and breaking up every lump.

Step 10: Keep adding the rest of the water in small splashes, lifting the mixture high with your cupped hand and letting it fall back, until a thick, pale foam starts to gather on top.

Step 11: Keep beating by hand until the foam is about 1 cm thick and holds its shape when you push it aside. The liquid under it should be like thin cream.

Step 12: Serve cold in bowls or cups: ladle the liquid first, then spoon a cap of flor on top. Let everyone sweeten with the syrup, and add 12 ice cubes if you like. Drink the same day.