Tembleque

Step 1: Lightly wet a 1-litre mould or six small ramekins with cold water and shake out the excess. This helps the pudding slip out later.

Step 2: In a saucepan, whisk about 200 ml of the 3 ¼ cups full-fat coconut milk with 2 ½ oz cornflour (cornstarch) until completely smooth. Whisk in the rest of the coconut milk, 3 ½ oz sugar and ¼ tsp salt, and drop in 1 cinnamon stick.

Step 3: Cook over a medium heat, stirring all the time with a whisk or wooden spoon and scraping the bottom and corners. After about 8 minutes the mixture suddenly thickens. Keep stirring for 2 minutes more, until it bubbles slowly like lava and thickly coats the spoon. A common mistake is stopping as soon as it thickens: undercooked cornflour won't set firmly and tastes floury.

Step 4: Take off the heat, fish out the cinnamon stick and stir in ½ tsp orange blossom water if using. Pour at once into the mould and tap it on the counter to level it.

Step 5: Cool for 20 minutes, then cover and chill for at least 4 hours, until firm and cold.

Step 6: Run a knife around the edge, place a plate on top and turn it out with a sharp shake. Dust with 1 tsp ground cinnamon and serve cold, watching it tremble.