Thavala vadai

Step 1: Soak 1 ¾ oz raw rice, 2 ⅝ oz chana dal, 1 ¾ oz toor dal, 1 ¾ oz urad dal and ⅞ oz moong dal together in plenty of water for 2 hours, then drain very well.

Step 2: Grind with 3 dried red chillies and 1 tsp black peppercorns in short pulses, adding no water or at most a tablespoon, to a coarse, gritty dough.

Step 3: Mix in 3 tbsp fresh coconut, 12 curry leaves, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and 1 tsp salt. A pinch pressed between fingers should feel like damp coarse semolina.

Step 4: Pour 3 ¼ cups groundnut or sunflower oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan, no more than a third of its depth, and heat over medium-high to 175–350°F. No thermometer? Drop in a small cube of bread: it should sizzle at once and turn golden in about 40 seconds. Keep a lid and a dry tray nearby and never leave the hot oil unattended.

Step 5: Shape walnut-sized balls, flatten slightly and press a dent in the middle with your thumb. Fry 5–6 at a time.

Step 6: Fry over medium heat, turning, until deep golden and very crisp, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat a little if they brown in under 3 minutes, or the centres stay raw.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm with coconut chutney or just as they are with coffee.