Thenkuzhal

Step 1: Sift 10 ½ oz rice flour with the ground 2 ⅛ oz whole skinned urad dal, then mix in 1 ½ tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp white sesame seeds, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and 1 tsp salt.

Step 2: Pour in 2 tbsp hot sunflower oil and rub it through the flour with your fingertips until it feels like damp sand.

Step 3: Add 1 cup water a little at a time and knead to a soft, smooth dough; a piece pressed between your fingers should not crack at the edges.

Step 4: Pour 3 ¼ cups sunflower or groundnut oil into a heavy kadai to no more than a third of its depth and heat over medium to 350°F. A pinch of dough should rise immediately with plenty of bubbles but not colour. Never leave the hot oil.

Step 5: Fill a murukku press fitted with the single-hole plate. Press 3–4 cm spirals onto an oiled slotted spoon or parchment squares, about 3 rounds each.

Step 6: Slide 3–4 spirals into the oil. Fry for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until the loud fizzing dies down to a quiet sizzle and they are crisp and cream-gold.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper and cool completely; snap one to check it is crisp to the centre. Store airtight for up to 3 weeks.