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Tikin xic

Achiote fish in banana leaf

Achiote and bitter orange fish grilled in banana leaf, from the Yucatán coast

Beach restaurants on the coasts of Quintana Roo and Campeche cook tikin xic over charcoal: a butterflied whole fish, or thick fillets, rubbed with brick-red achiote and bitter orange, laid on banana leaves under tomato, onion and pepper and grilled until smoky. The flesh stays moist and turns a deep orange, tangy and earthy rather than hot. Seville orange is the traditional sour; orange and lime juice together stand in well. Serve it with corn tortillas, rice, pickled red onion and habanero salsa so everyone can make tacos at the table. Chef's tip: cook the fish skin side down without turning; the banana leaf protects it and keeps the achiote from scorching.
Total time
95 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
4
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Ingredients

Serves4

For the marinade

For the fish

To serve

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What you'll need

Fresh ingredients (7)

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Method

0/6 done
  1. Step 1: Blend 2 ⅞ oz achiote paste, ¾ cup bitter orange juice, 3 cloves garlic, ¼ tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano, ½ tsp ground black pepper and 1 tsp salt into a smooth, pourable paste.

    3 min
  2. Step 2: Pat 3 ⅓ lb whole red snapper or sea bass, butterflied dry and score the thickest parts. Rub the marinade all over the flesh, put it in a dish, cover and marinate in the fridge for 30–60 minutes. Don't leave it for hours: the acid starts to 'cook' the fish and that is the usual reason tikin xic turns mushy.

    45 min
  3. Step 3: Light a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium, about 400°F, with the rack 15 cm above the coals.

  4. Step 4: Lay 2 banana leaves on a tray, brush with 2 tbsp vegetable oil and place the fish on top, skin side down. Cover it with 2 tomatoes, 1 red onion, 1 green pepper and 1 habanero chilli, and spoon over any leftover marinade.

  5. Step 5: Slide the leaves onto the grill, cover with the lid or a sheet of foil and cook without turning until the flesh is opaque and flakes easily at the thickest point, and the leaf is charred at the edges.

    25 min
  6. Step 6: Bring the fish to the table on its leaf with 12 warm corn tortillas and 2 lime wedges.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
360 kcal
Protein
52 g
Carbs
14 g
Fat
10 g
Fibre
3 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does tikin xic take?
About 95 minutes in total: 65 minutes to prepare and 30 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
4 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
What can I use instead of bitter orange juice?
Mandarin or pineapple juice, same amount.
What can I use instead of garlic?
½ tsp garlic paste or ⅛ tsp garlic powder per clove.

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