Vanela gathiya

Step 1: Heat 1 tbsp groundnut oil in a small pan, add ½ tsp black mustard seeds and let it pop. Add 2 green chillies, ¼ tsp ground turmeric and 5 ½ oz raw green papaya, toss for 1 minute just to warm it, then off the heat stir in ¼ tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar and 1 tbsp lemon juice. Set aside.

Step 2: Beat 3 ½ tbsp groundnut oil, ½ cup water, ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda and ¾ tsp salt in a wide bowl for 4–5 minutes, until white, frothy and almost doubled.

Step 3: Add 9 oz besan (gram flour), 1 tsp ajwain (carom seeds), 1 tsp black peppercorns and ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and mix into a very soft dough. Knead and slap it against the bowl for 3 minutes until it feels light and stretchy.

Step 4: Pour 3 ¼ cups groundnut oil into a heavy kadai so it is no more than a third full and heat to 350°F; a small piece of dough should rise in 2–3 seconds with lively bubbles. Keep watching the oil the whole time.

Step 5: Wet a wooden board lightly. Put a walnut-sized ball of dough at one end and, pressing with the heel of your hand, push and drag it forward in one movement into a flat rope about 15 cm long and 1 cm wide.

Step 6: Lift the rope with a thin spatula or your fingers and slide it into the oil. Roll 4–5 at a time.

Step 7: Fry for 1–2 minutes, turning once, until they puff, turn pale gold and float high. They should still be soft when pressed; don't brown them. Drain and serve hot with the sambharo.