Vegetable Uzbek plov

Step 1: Wash the 1 ⅛ lb Central Asian devzira rice or another medium-grain rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear, then soak in warm salted water for 1 hour while you prepare the rest. Rinsing away the surface starch is what keeps the grains separate.

Step 2: Simmer the soaked 7 oz dried chickpeas in unsalted water for 40 minutes, until just tender but still holding their shape. Drain.

Step 3: Heat ¾ cup sunflower or cottonseed oil in a kazan or heavy 28 cm casserole over a high heat until it shimmers and a slice of onion sizzles hard. Fry the 2 onions for 8–10 minutes, stirring, until deep golden-brown and smelling sweet.

Step 4: Add the 1 ¾ lb carrots, preferably half yellow and half orange in a layer on top and leave them for 2 minutes without stirring, then stir gently. Fry for 10–12 minutes, until the carrots are soft, bright and have soaked up the oil. Don't let them mash.

Step 5: Stir in half the 2 tsp cumin seeds (zira) (rubbed between your palms), the 1 tsp ground coriander, the chickpeas, 2 tbsp dried barberries (zirk), 1 ¾ oz golden raisins and ⅝ tbsp salt. Pour in about 600 ml of the 2 ¼ cups boiling water, bring to a boil, then simmer over a medium heat for 15 minutes. This broth is the zirvak; taste it: it should be slightly too salty, as the rice will absorb it.

Step 6: Push the 2 garlic heads and 2 dried red chillies down into the zirvak.

Step 7: Drain the rice and spread it over the zirvak in an even layer. Do not stir from now on. Carefully pour the rest of the 1 ½ cups boiling water over a slotted spoon so the rice isn't disturbed, until it sits 1.5 cm under water. Add the rest of ⅜ tbsp salt and the remaining 2 tsp cumin seeds (zira).

Step 8: Cook over a high heat, uncovered, for 10–12 minutes, until the water has dropped below the surface of the rice and you hear a quiet crackle from the bottom.

Step 9: Gather the rice into a dome with a skimmer, poke 6–7 holes down to the bottom with the handle of a wooden spoon so steam can escape, and lower the heat to the very lowest setting.

Step 10: Cover tightly with a lid wrapped in a tea towel and steam for 25 minutes. The commonest mistake is lifting the lid early or stirring: the steam does the cooking and the grains break if moved.

Step 11: Lift out the garlic heads. Gently mix the rice with the carrots and chickpeas from the bottom, pile on a large platter and crown with the garlic and chillies. Diners squeeze the soft cloves over their rice.

Step 12: Serve hot with achichuk and green tea.