Vegetarian popiah

Step 1: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a wide pan over a medium heat. Fry 4 garlic cloves for 30 seconds until pale golden, then add 1 tbsp fermented soybean paste (taucheo) and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Step 2: Add 1 ¾ lb jicama (bangkuang), 2 carrots and 5 ½ oz firm tofu, then ¾ cup vegetable stock, 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar. Cover and simmer over a low heat for 25–30 minutes, stirring now and then, until the jicama is soft, slightly translucent and sweet.

Step 3: Uncover and cook for a few more minutes until only a little liquid is left. Tip into a colander over a bowl and let it drain well. A common mistake is skipping this; wet filling soaks through the skin before you've finished rolling.

Step 4: Lay a 12 popiah skins on a board. Spread with a teaspoon each of 4 tbsp sweet dark sauce (tim cheong) or hoisin sauce and 2 tbsp red chilli paste, then lay a 12 lettuce leaves leaf in the centre to act as a barrier.

Step 5: Add a few 5 ½ oz beansprouts, two heaped spoonfuls of the drained filling, some 2 eggs, 2 ⅛ oz roasted peanuts, 4 tbsp crispy fried shallots and 1 handful fresh coriander in a neat log across the lettuce.

Step 6: Fold the bottom edge over the filling, fold in both sides, then roll up firmly. Cut into 4 pieces with a sharp knife and eat straight away, while the skin is soft.