Watalappan

Step 1: Put 9 oz kithul jaggery or dark palm sugar and ¼ cup water in a small pan over a low heat and stir until the jaggery has melted completely, 3–4 minutes. Leave to cool until just warm.

Step 2: In a large bowl, whisk 5 eggs gently with a fork; you want them well mixed but not frothy, because foam gives a pitted top.

Step 3: Whisk in the cooled jaggery syrup, then 1 ¾ cups thick coconut milk, ¾ tsp ground cardamom, ¼ tsp grated nutmeg, 1 pinch ground cloves and 1 pinch salt. Strain through a fine sieve into a 1-litre heatproof dish or 6 ramekins.

Step 4: Cover tightly with foil. Set the dish on a rack in a large pan with simmering water coming a third of the way up its sides, cover the pan and steam over a medium-low heat.

Step 5: After 20 minutes, scatter 1 ⅜ oz cashew nuts over the top (they'll sit on the half-set surface) and re-cover. Steam for 20–25 minutes more, until the edges are firm and the centre wobbles only slightly like a set jelly; a knife pushed into the middle comes out clean.

Step 6: Lift out, leave to cool, then chill for at least 3 hours or overnight. Serve cold in spoonfuls; it keeps 3 days in the fridge.