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Westphalian pumpernickel

Pumpernickel: dark whole-rye bread steam-baked overnight in a lidded tin

Real pumpernickel comes from Westphalia, where bakers in towns like Soest once left loaves in the cooling bread oven overnight, and it is still sliced paper-thin for breakfast with butter, quark and radishes or with a sharp cheese. There is no colouring and no molasses here: the near-black colour and the malty sweetness come only from cracked rye cooked for many hours in steam at a low heat. The crumb is moist, dense and slightly sticky, and the loaf keeps for over a week wrapped in cloth. A common mistake is slicing it on the day it comes out of the tin; it needs a full day to settle or it tears into gummy crumbs. Chef's tip: wrap the tin tightly in two layers of foil and stand it in a roasting tray of hot water, because a dry loaf turns hard instead of dark and sweet.
Total time
1440 min
Difficulty
hard
Serves
16
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Ingredients

Serves16

For the soaker

For the leaven

For the dough

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Method

0/6 done
  1. Step 1: The evening before, pour the 2 cups boiling water over the 1 ⅛ lb coarse rye meal (cracked rye, Roggenschrot) and 3 ½ oz stale rye bread, crusts on in a bowl, stir, cover and leave overnight. In another bowl mix the 1 oz active rye sourdough starter, 5 ½ oz dark rye flour and ¾ cup warm water into a thick paste, cover and leave at room temperature for 12 hours, until bubbly and smelling sour.

    20 min
  2. Step 2: Next morning, mash the soaked bread into the rye meal with a spoon. Add the leaven, 9 oz coarse rye meal, ⅝ oz salt, 2 tbsp sugar beet syrup or dark golden syrup and ½ cup warm water and mix with a wet hand or a stiff spatula for 5 minutes into a heavy, sticky mass. Rye dough is not kneaded; just make sure there are no dry pockets.

    10 min
  3. Step 3: Brush a 1 kg (30 × 11 cm) loaf tin with the 1 tsp sunflower oil. Press the dough in with a wet spatula and smooth the top. Cover and leave in a warm place for 2–3 hours, until the surface shows small cracks and the dough has risen by about a quarter.

    150 min
  4. Step 4: Heat the oven to 300°F (275°F fan). Wrap the tin very tightly in two layers of foil and set it in a deep roasting tray. Pour boiling water into the tray to come halfway up the tin.

    10 min
  5. Step 5: Bake for 1 hour, then turn the oven down to 225°F (194°F fan) and leave for 12–13 hours more, topping up the water tray once or twice. The loaf is ready when the crumb is dark brown-black and a thin skewer comes out moist but clean.

    780 min
  6. Step 6: Unwrap, turn the loaf out onto a rack and cool completely. Wrap in a clean cloth and rest for 24 hours before slicing very thinly with a sharp serrated knife. It keeps 10 days wrapped, or freezes in slices.

    30 min

Nutrition per serving

Calories
150 kcal
Protein
4 g
Carbs
30 g
Fat
1 g
Fibre
6 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does westphalian pumpernickel take?
About 1440 minutes in total: 600 minutes to prepare and 840 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
16 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegan?
Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.

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