Wu tau go (taro cake)

Step 1: Grease a 20 cm square or round cake tin, about 6 cm deep, and set up a steamer with plenty of water.

Step 2: Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a wok over a medium heat and fry 2 Chinese sausage (lap cheong) for 3 minutes, until it turns glossy and the fat runs. Add 3 shallots, 1 oz dried shrimp and 4 dried shiitake mushrooms and fry for 2–3 minutes until fragrant and the shallots are soft.

Step 3: Add 1 ⅓ lb taro to the wok, turn the heat up to medium-high and fry for 5 minutes, until the edges look slightly translucent. Season with 1 ½ tsp salt, 2 tsp sugar, ½ tsp five-spice powder and ½ tsp ground white pepper and take the wok off the heat.

Step 4: In a large bowl, whisk 9 oz rice flour and 1 oz wheat starch or cornflour with 2 ¾ cups cold water until completely smooth and thin, like single cream.

Step 5: Return the wok to a low heat, pour in the batter and stir constantly for 5–7 minutes, scraping the bottom, until it thickens into a heavy paste that holds its shape. Common mistake: stopping while it is still runny; the taro then sinks to the bottom during steaming.

Step 6: Scrape the mixture into the tin, press it level with a wet spatula and cover loosely with foil or a plate.

Step 7: Steam over a high heat for 50–60 minutes, topping up with boiling water as needed, until a chopstick pushed into the centre comes out without wet batter and the top looks glossy and set.

Step 8: Leave to cool, then chill for at least 4 hours or overnight, until firm enough to slice cleanly. It keeps in the fridge for 4 days.

Step 9: Cut into slices 1 cm thick. Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a non-stick pan over a medium heat and fry the slices for 3–4 minutes a side, without moving them, until golden and crisp and hot right through.

Step 10: Scatter with 2 spring onions and 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds and serve hot with 4 tbsp chilli sauce. Vegetarian variation: leave out the sausage and dried shrimp, fry 100 g diced smoked tofu and 50 g chopped preserved radish (choy po) with the shallots, and add 1 tbsp light soy sauce for depth.