Yawata-maki (beef-wrapped burdock)

Step 1: Soak 7 oz burdock root (gobō) in cold water for 5 minutes until the water turns brown, then drain.

Step 2: Simmer the burdock and 1 carrot in 1 ¼ cups dashi with 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp sugar over medium-low heat for 12–15 minutes, until a skewer goes in easily but the sticks still have a little bite. Cool in the liquid, then drain well.

Step 3: Lay 2–3 slices of 10 ½ oz thinly sliced beef (sukiyaki or shabu-shabu cut) on a board, slightly overlapping, to make a sheet about 15 cm wide. Dust lightly with 1 tbsp plain flour or potato starch, put a bundle of 4–5 vegetable sticks at one end and roll up tightly. Make 4 rolls and dust the outsides with the rest of the flour.

Step 4: Heat 1 tbsp neutral oil in a frying pan over medium heat and add the rolls seam-side down. Cook for 6–8 minutes, turning, until browned all over and the seams are sealed. Common mistake: turning them before the seam has set, so they unroll.

Step 5: Wipe out excess fat, then add 2 tbsp sake, 2 tbsp mirin and the rest of the 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp sugar. Simmer over medium heat for 4–5 minutes, turning the rolls constantly, until the sauce is reduced to a thick, shiny glaze that coats them and the beef is cooked through.

Step 6: Let the rolls rest for 5 minutes, then cut into 3 cm pieces to show the spiral, scatter with 1 tsp toasted white sesame seeds and spoon over any glaze. They keep 3 days in the fridge.