Harcsapaprikás
Along the Tisza at Szeged, the fish restaurants on the riverbank serve harcsapaprikás to families at long Sunday tables: thick chunks of firm, sweet catfish poached in a paprika and onion sauce, then finished with sour cream until it is a rich, coral-pink colour. Catfish has no small bones and holds together well, so it suits a sauce dish; the flavour is mild, creamy and gently smoky from the paprika. Traditionally it comes with túrós csusza (noodles with curd cheese and crisp bacon) or plain nokedli. A common mistake is stirring the fish too much, which breaks it into flakes; shake the pan instead. Chef's tip: salt the fish chunks 15 minutes ahead in the fridge, which firms them up and seasons them all the way through.



