Namak mandi tikka
Namak Mandi, the old salt market inside Peshawar's walled city, is now a street of smoke and sizzling skewers, and its tikka is famous because it needs almost nothing: chunks of lamb threaded between cubes of dumba tail fat, salted and grilled over charcoal until the fat melts and bastes the meat. You eat it at a long table off a sheet of hot naan, with raw tomato wedges, onion and green chilli, and pots of green tea afterwards. It tastes of lamb, salt and smoke and nothing else, which is the point. Over-marinating is what goes wrong, oddly enough: piling on spices or yogurt hides the meat, and salting too early draws out moisture, so salt just before grilling. Chef's tip: if your butcher has no tail fat, use well-marbled shoulder and thread a few pieces of the lamb's own fat between the cubes.



