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16 recipes

TereréIced yerba mate

In Asunción the hottest part of the day stops for tereré: a horn or cup packed with yerba mate, topped up again and again with ice water infused with crushed herbs, and passed round the group through a metal straw. It was recognised by UNESCO as part of Paraguay's cultural heritage, and the herbs (yuyos) change with the season and the drinker's mood. Yerba mate contains caffeine, so it isn't one for small children. The common mistake is pouring water straight into loose yerba, which then clogs the straw; tilt the yerba to one side first. Chef's tip: for tereré ruso, swap the water for cold orange or grapefruit juice.

10 min

Paraguayan Drinks

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BusecaTripe and white bean stew

Buseca arrived in Montevideo with Italian immigrants from Lombardy and became a classic winter dish of Uruguayan bodegones and family kitchens, eaten on cold June and July days. Honeycomb tripe is simmered until tender, then stewed with white beans, pork chorizo, bacon, peppers, tomato and paprika into a thick, warming stew served with crusty bread. Buy tripe that is already cleaned and blanched (dressed). The usual mistake is undercooking the tripe: it needs a full 2 hours, until it's soft enough to cut with a spoon. Slow-cooker option: after step 4, cook on low for 8 hours. Chef's tip: a little grated lemon zest and parsley stirred in at the end lifts the rich, gelatinous sauce.

185 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Postre MassiniCustard sponge with burnt sugar top

Montevideo's birthday cake of choice since the early twentieth century, the Massini is two thin layers of sponge sandwiching a thick filling of whipped cream folded with egg-yolk custard, crowned with a thin glassy crust of torched yolk and sugar. Bakeries across Uruguay sell it on Sundays. Traditional versions sometimes add a sweet fortified wine to the custard; this one is alcohol-free. The custard is cooked to a safe 71 °C. The common mistake is assembling with warm custard, which melts the cream into a puddle. Chef's tip: if you don't have a blowtorch, put the sugared top under a very hot grill for a minute and watch it closely.

80 min

Paraguayan Baking

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Morcilla dulceSweet blood sausage with walnuts

No Uruguayan parrilla is complete without morcilla dulce: a soft pork blood sausage sweetened with sugar and scented with orange peel, studded with walnuts and raisins, grilled until the skin crisps and served first, as part of the achuras, while the beef is still cooking. It is pork throughout: pork blood, pork back fat and natural pork casings. Making it at home is a project. Buy fresh pork blood with an anticoagulant added from a butcher who supplies it for sausage making, keep it chilled below 4 °C and use it within a day. The common mistake is poaching at a rolling boil, which bursts the casings. Chef's tip: keep the water at 80–85 °C, just shivering, and prick a sausage after 25 minutes: it is done when brown, not red, juice comes out.

120 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Cocido quemadoBurnt sugar mate drink

Cocido is how Paraguay starts the day: in Asunción, in the villages of Guairá and Itapúa, and in school kitchens, a pot of burnt yerba is brewed and poured into cups with chipa, the cheesy cassava bread, or with a hard galleta. The old way is to drop a glowing piece of charcoal into a pot with yerba and sugar and stir until the sugar burns. On a home stove you caramelise them together in a dry pan instead, which is safer and gives the same smoky, toffee-like taste. The drink is clear amber-brown, with roasted, slightly bitter mate notes over burnt-sugar sweetness; with milk added it becomes cocido con leche, creamy and coffee-coloured. Yerba mate contains caffeine, so treat it like a cup of coffee. The common mistake is letting the sugar go black: it turns acrid and bitter. Pull it off the heat when the caramel is deep amber and the yerba smells toasted, not burnt. It is ready when the liquid is a clear dark amber and tastes of toffee and smoke. Chef's tip: the water will spit fiercely when it hits the hot caramel, so pour it in from the side, at arm's length.

14 min

Paraguayan Drinks

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SargyangmaPork blood sausage

This is a pork dish: sargyangma is the blood sausage of the Limbu people of Taplejung, Panchthar and the eastern hills, made at Chasok Tangnam, weddings and whenever a pig is killed for a family celebration. Fresh pork blood is mixed with diced pork fat, rice, ginger, garlic, chilli and timur, stuffed into pork intestine, gently boiled and then sliced and fried until crisp-edged, and it is eaten hot with a tomato and timur achar or simply with rice. At home, buy fresh or frozen pork blood and natural hog casings only from a licensed butcher, keep both chilled, and cook the sausage until a thermometer in the centre reads 71 °C. The trap is boiling the water hard, which bursts the casings; it should barely simmer. Chef's tip: prick the sausages with a needle as they rise in the pot, and when the liquid that comes out is clear brown, not red, they are nearly done.

120 min

Nepali Meat

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Sukuti sadekoDried meat salad

Up in Mustang and the high Thakali villages of the Kali Gandaki, strips of buffalo or yak meat are hung in the cold, dry wind until they turn dark and hard, and that sukuti keeps families in protein through the winter. Sadeko means mixed or dressed, and sukuti sadeko is the bar-snack and festival nibble that every Nepali restaurant from Jomsom to Kathmandu serves: the dried meat roasted or fried until it softens and smokes, pulled into shreds and tossed with red onion, tomato, garlic, green chilli, numbing timur and a splash of hot mustard oil. It is chewy, smoky and fiercely savoury. Buy sukuti from a reputable Nepali or Asian grocer, or use good dried beef jerky without sugar glaze. The usual misstep is skipping the roasting step, which leaves the meat too tough to chew. Chef's tip: pound the roasted sukuti lightly in a mortar before shredding, so it breaks along the grain.

30 min

Nepali Meat

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Fini rotiLayered fried sugar bread

During Tihar, the five-day festival of lights in late autumn, sisters in Kathmandu and Pokhara prepare a basket of treats for Bhai Tika, and fini roti, a crisp round of fried bread made of dozens of paper-thin layers, sits in it beside sel roti, nuts and sweets. A simple dough of flour and ghee is rolled very thin, spread with a paste of ghee and rice flour, rolled into a log and cut, so that each piece fans out in the hot oil into a flaky spiral that shatters at the first bite. It is lightly dusted with sugar, lasts for days in a tin, and is eaten with tea or given to visiting relatives. The layers vanish if you make the paste with melted ghee, which seeps out instead of staying put. Chef's tip: beat the ghee and rice flour together until fluffy and pale like soft butter, and keep the dough cool so the layers stay distinct.

60 min

Nepali Baking

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TakhaSpiced buffalo jelly

On cold Kathmandu winter mornings the clay bowls of takha that were left overnight by the window have set firm, and Newar families eat it cold in wobbly spoonfuls, a clear, glistening aspic studded with tender buffalo meat, tasting of ginger, garlic, cumin and timur. Its set comes entirely from the collagen in the skin, trotters and bony cuts, slowly simmered for hours; no gelatine is added. Takha is served with beaten rice at winter feasts and around the festival of Yomari Punhi. Buffalo is hard to find outside Nepal, so beef shin and a cleaned beef or veal trotter are the best stand-in. The most common failure is boiling the stock hard, which makes it cloudy and greasy; it should barely tremble. Chef's tip: test the set before you pour, by chilling a spoonful on a cold saucer for 10 minutes; if it stays runny, reduce the stock further.

240 min

Nepali Meat

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GhonghiSnail curry

When the monsoon fills the rice paddies of the western and central Terai, Tharu families gather ghonghi, the little freshwater snails, and cook them in a dark, fiery curry thickened with ground roasted linseed; the tip of each shell is snipped so the meat can be sucked out at the table, and the dish is loved as both a treat and a monsoon tonic, eaten with rice or dhikri. Wild freshwater snails can carry parasites such as rat lungworm and liver flukes, so never use snails you have collected from ponds, ditches or paddies yourself. At home use only cleaned, purged farmed snails in their shells from a specialist supplier, or cooked, frozen farmed escargots, or live periwinkles from a good fishmonger as a stand-in, and boil them hard before they go into the curry. The usual error is skimping on the boiling, which is both unsafe and leaves the snails rubbery; they need a rolling boil and then a long simmer. Chef's tip: roast the linseed until it pops before grinding, for the nutty, dark Tharu flavour.

80 min

Nepali Meat

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Kachila (cooked)Spiced buffalo mince

In the Newar homes and bhoj feasts of the Kathmandu Valley, kachila is a prized delicacy: finely minced buffalo meat mixed with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, chilli and numbing timur, eaten in small spoonfuls with beaten rice, traditionally raw. Raw minced meat can carry harmful bacteria and parasites right through, so the traditional raw form is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system, and we do not recommend it for anyone at home. This version keeps every bit of the seasoning but sears the mince quickly in a very hot pan to 71 °C, so it stays soft and loose rather than turning into a dry fry, then dresses it with the classic smoking mustard-oil tempering. It is eaten as part of samay baji or as a snack with chiura. The usual slip is overcooking it into crumbly pellets; take it off the heat the moment it is cooked through. Chef's tip: use buffalo or beef mince, or ask the butcher to mince lean beef twice, very fine.

30 min

Nepali Meat

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SanyakhunaSpiced fish jelly

Sanyakhuna is takha's fishy cousin, a Newari winter delicacy from the Kathmandu Valley made by cooking small fish with ginger, garlic, chilli and timur in a rich stock and leaving it to set into a cool, savoury jelly. In old Newar kitchens the set came from buffalo skin simmered in the stock; this home version uses fish heads and frames, which give flavour and a soft set, and a little agar so it sets reliably in the fridge. Squares are cut and eaten cold with beaten rice and a fiery achar during the cold months, especially around Yomari Punhi. The typical failure is a cloudy, bitter stock from boiling the fish too hard or too long; fish bones need only 30 minutes. Keep it in the fridge and eat within 2 days. Chef's tip: use small whole fried fish such as sprats or small trout fillets for the pieces in the jelly, as they hold their shape.

120 min

Nepali Fish

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Sapu mhichaStuffed leaf tripe

Sapu is the many-layered leaf (or book) tripe of the buffalo and mhicha means a little bag, and these parcels are among the great tests of a Newari cook in Kirtipur, Bhaktapur and the old quarters of Kathmandu, made for bhoj feasts and festival days. The tripe is filled with soft bone marrow seasoned with ginger, garlic and timur, tied up, simmered until tender and finally fried so the outside crisps while the marrow inside turns rich and melting. Slices are eaten hot with beaten rice and a sharp tomato achar. Buy leaf tripe already dressed (cleaned and blanched) from a butcher, ask for beef if buffalo is not available, and cook it until fully tender; it is never served pink or half-cooked. The usual slip is overfilling, which makes the parcels burst in the pan. Chef's tip: tie the parcels like a small sausage with kitchen string, tight but not cutting into the tripe.

120 min

Nepali Meat

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ChajáSponge, peach and cream cake

Chajá was created in 1927 at a bakery in Paysandú, a city on the Uruguay River, and named after a local bird whose feathers look as fluffy as its crumbly meringue coat. Today it's Uruguay's birthday and celebration cake: layers of light sponge soaked in peach syrup, filled with whipped cream, peaches and dulce de leche, then covered in crushed meringue. It's sweet, soft and crunchy at once, best on the day it's assembled. Chef's tip: soak the sponge but not too much; it should feel moist, not wet, or the layers slide.

90 min

Paraguayan Baking

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Asado uruguayoGrilled beef short ribs and chorizo

Sunday in Uruguay means asado: in Montevideo backyards and the cattle towns of the interior, beef ribs (asado de tira), chorizo and morcilla cook slowly over the embers of a wood fire, with only coarse salt, while the family waits. The parrillero rakes coals under the grill and keeps the heat low and even. This recipe includes pork chorizo. The mistake is cooking over flames; the fire should burn down to embers you can hold your hand above for 6–8 seconds. Chef's tip: salt the meat only when it goes on the grill, with coarse salt, never fine.

140 min

Paraguayan Meat

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SekuwaSpiced grilled meat skewers

Dharan, in Nepal's eastern hills, is famous for its 'sekuwa corner', a lane of smoky grills where families and friends gather in the evening for spiced goat, chicken and pork skewers fresh off the fire. The meat is marinated in a dry-ish paste of garlic, ginger, cumin, chilli and timur (Nepali Sichuan pepper), with a little mustard oil, then grilled until charred at the edges. It is the classic picnic and party food, eaten with puffed rice, a tomato-sesame achar and sliced onion. This recipe uses lamb or mutton shoulder in place of goat. Chef's tip: soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes and leave a little space between the pieces so the heat reaches all sides.

40 min

Nepali Meat

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