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Salted saffron milk caps

Northern Russians rank ryzhiki, the orange saffron milk caps of the pine woods, above almost every other mushroom, and salted ones from around Arkhangelsk once travelled to the tsar's table. Salted, they keep their bright colour, turn firm and juicy with a clean, resinous taste, and are served with thin onion rings, sunflower oil and hot boiled potatoes; for non-vegans a spoon of sour cream is classic. Old cellars dry-salted them raw for months; this safer fridge version blanches the caps briefly and keeps them in a measured brine in the fridge, ready in about a week. Only use mushrooms identified by an experienced forager or bought from a trusted seller. Where most people go wrong is guessing the salt; too little lets spoilage start, so weigh it. Chef's tip: the caps bruise green where handled, which is normal, so don't worry when the edges darken.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Mochenaya brusnikaSoaked lingonberries

In Siberian and northern villages a barrel of lingonberries standing in water was the winter larder, ladled out to sit beside roast game or meat, a plate of potatoes and mushrooms, or a bowl of porridge. The tart ruby berries keep thanks to their own natural acidity and only a light syrup; after a few weeks they turn faintly fizzy, sweet-sour and refreshing, and the pink liquid is drunk cold as a drink. This is a fridge version: cooled spiced syrup is poured over clean berries in a jar, which then waits three to four weeks before opening. A common mistake is pouring the syrup on hot, which cooks the berries so they burst and turn dull. Chef's tip: frozen lingonberries work well too, and an apple cut in wedges and tucked into the jar soaks up the flavour and is a treat of its own.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Dulce de lecheMilk caramel

Dulce de leche is Argentina's national sweet, spread on toast at breakfast, sandwiched in alfajores, rolled into panqueques and spooned onto flan. Argentine families traditionally make it by slowly cooking milk and sugar with a vanilla pod and a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, which helps it turn deep brown, until it becomes a thick, glossy caramel cream. It takes about three hours of gentle cooking and regular stirring. Chef's tip: use a wide, heavy pan and keep the heat low; the wider the surface, the faster the milk reduces, and the less it catches on the bottom.

by KrazyBadal 0 views