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Yam talay (Thai seafood salad)

Beach shacks on Koh Samet and along the Pattaya coast bring yam talay out in a heap, the seafood still warm, glistening with lime and fish sauce, and scattered with Chinese celery and onion. It is light and very sour, eaten with ice-cold drinks before the grilled fish arrives, or with rice for lunch. Use whatever is freshest; the mix below is easy to find. Chef's tip: poach each type of seafood separately and briefly; tipping everything in together overcooks the squid into rubber bands before the mussels open.

25 minThaiFishGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pla pao (salt-crusted grilled fish)

Walk through any night market from Chiang Mai to Hat Yai and you will see rows of whole fish, white with crusted salt, grilling slowly over charcoal with lemongrass stalks poking out of their bellies. The salt shell keeps the flesh steaming in its own juice, so it comes out moist, clean-tasting and scented with lemongrass and pandan. People peel back the skin and eat the fish wrapped in lettuce with rice noodles, herbs and a fierce lime and chilli dip. Chef's tip: pat the fish completely dry before salting; a wet fish lets the crust slide off in the first five minutes.

55 minThaiFishGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pla neung manao (steamed fish in lime and chilli)Steamed fish with lime and chilli

Restaurants all over Bangkok bring this dish to the table in a fish-shaped steamer with a flame underneath, the fish swimming in a broth of garlic, chilli, lime and fish sauce that keeps bubbling as you eat. Sea bass (pla kapong) is the usual choice. It is clean, sour and very garlicky, ideal for a light dinner with rice and a plate of greens. A whole fish is traditional; two thick fillets work just as well and steam faster. Chef's tip: pour the sauce over at the end, not before steaming; lime cooked for 15 minutes loses its freshness and turns bitter.

35 minThaiFishGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Choo chee pla (fish in thick red curry)

Riverside restaurants along the Chao Phraya, from Nonthaburi down to Samut Prakan, serve choo chee as a centrepiece for shared dinners: a crisp-fried fish smothered in a sauce so reduced it barely moves, red with curry paste, rich with coconut cream and scattered with threads of kaffir lime leaf. The name copies the sizzle of paste hitting hot cream. It is sweeter and thicker than a soupy gaeng phet, so serve plenty of jasmine rice and a clear soup or plain vegetables alongside. Chef's tip: fry the fish only after the sauce is ready and pour it over at the table; fish left to sit in the sauce goes soggy within minutes.

40 minThaiFishGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pla kapong tod nam plaFried sea bass with fish sauce

Seafood restaurants on the jetties of Krabi, Trang and Hua Hin bring this out whole on a long platter, its scored sides fanned open and crackling, as the centrepiece of a shared table. The skin and fins fry so crisp you can eat them, while the flesh inside stays moist and sweet; a sticky glaze of fish sauce and palm sugar goes over at the last minute. It is salty-sweet rather than spicy, so it sits happily beside a sour green mango salad, a hot curry and plenty of jasmine rice. Chef's tip: dry the fish thoroughly with kitchen paper, inside the cuts too, and leave it uncovered in the fridge for 30 minutes if you can; dry skin is crisp skin and spits far less.

40 minThaiFishGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pla rad prikFried fish with chilli sauce

A whole fried fish blanketed in glossy red chilli sauce is the centrepiece of many family celebrations and riverside restaurant meals in central Thailand. The sauce is known as sam rot, 'three flavours', because palm sugar, tamarind and fish sauce are balanced against pounded chillies and garlic; spooned over a fish fried until its skin crackles and the fins crunch like crisps, it turns sticky and shiny. Sea bass (pla kapong) is the usual choice, though snapper or tilapia work well too. Bring it to the table with jasmine rice, a stir-fried green vegetable and a clear soup to share. Chef's tip: score the fish down to the bone on both sides and pat it bone-dry, so the heat reaches the thickest part and the oil doesn't spit.

45 minThaiFishSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views