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11 recipes

Pescado envuelto en huevoEgg-battered fish in tomato sauce

In Guatemala, Cuaresma and Semana Santa mean the smell of pescado seco envuelto en huevo: pieces of dried salted fish (usually cod) soaked, dipped in whipped egg batter, fried until puffy and golden, then served in a light tomato sauce with rice. It fills the house during the processions of Holy Week, when carpets of sawdust and flowers line the streets of Antigua. Soaked salt cod is the easiest to find abroad. Chef's tip: whisk the whites very stiff and fold in the yolks gently, so the coating puffs into a soft cloud.

60 minCentral American Fish

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Salpores de arrozCrumbly rice flour cookies

Ask in a Salvadoran panadería for pan dulce to go with the afternoon cafecito and you will be offered salpores, round cookies with a sugar-crackled top that break into soft, sandy crumbs. Salpores de arroz are made with rice flour instead of wheat, which gives them their fine, almost powdery texture and makes them naturally gluten free. They taste of butter and vanilla with just enough sugar. Families in San Salvador buy them by the bag for wakes, birthdays and Sunday visits, and they are made to be dunked. Chef's tip: use finely milled white rice flour, not glutinous rice flour, which turns the cookies gummy; and don't wait for colour on top, because salpores stay pale and an extra few minutes dries them out.

40 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

ChampurradasCrisp sesame biscuits

No breakfast table in Guatemala City or Antigua is complete without a basket of champurradas, saucer-sized biscuits scattered with sesame seeds and made thin enough to snap. Guatemalans dunk them in a mug of sweet black coffee or hot chocolate, and they are sold in stacks wrapped in paper at bakeries and markets. They taste of butter and toasted sesame, not too sweet, with a crisp, slightly blistered top. Being too timid with the rolling pin is where most people go wrong; thick champurradas come out like cake. Chef's tip: roll each ball out directly on the baking paper to about 3 mm, so you never have to lift a fragile disc.

45 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

MarquesoteSugar-crusted sponge loaf

In Tegucigalpa, León and San Salvador, marquesote turns up on bakery shelves in big golden slabs, cut to order and wrapped in paper to dunk in morning coffee. It is a separated-egg sponge, very light and slightly dry, with a thin crackly crust from sugar sprinkled on before baking; Salvadoran bakers often add rice flour for a finer crumb. Around Holy Week in Nicaragua it is soaked in a cinnamon and clove syrup, and the syrup is given here as an option. Rough folding is what sinks it: beaten whites lose air fast, so fold in the flour with a light hand, just until it disappears. Chef's tip: line the tin with paper that stands 3 cm above the rim; the sponge climbs it, and you can lift the whole slab out to cool without squashing it.

60 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Quesadilla salvadoreñaSweet cheese pound cake

Ask for a quesadilla in San Salvador and you get cake, not a folded tortilla: a dense, buttery loaf made with rice flour, thick cream and grated hard cheese, with a crackly top of sesame seeds. Salvadoran families eat a slice with hot coffee on Sunday afternoons, and every bakery has its own version. It is sweet and salty at once, moist and close-textured. The usual mistake is overmixing after the flour goes in, which makes it rubbery. Hard cheeses like parmesan and many queso duro are made with animal rennet, so choose a vegetarian hard cheese if needed. Chef's tip: check your baking powder is gluten free if you are baking for a coeliac; the rice flour already is.

65 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Semita altaLayered sweet bread with pineapple jam

Salvadoran panaderías sell two semitas: the flat semita pacha and this tall one, built from soft sweet dough layered with pineapple or panela jam, so each slice shows dark stripes of fruit. It is bought by the slab for breakfast and afternoon coffee across the country. Dry dough is the common mistake; it should feel soft and slightly tacky, or the layers bake up like biscuit. Chef's tip: make the pineapple jam the day before and chill it; cold, thick jam spreads cleanly and doesn't leak out of the layers.

120 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Tapado garífunaSeafood and coconut stew

Livingston in Guatemala, Dangriga in Belize and Trujillo in Honduras all cook tapado, the Garifuna seafood stew where fish steaks, prawns and sometimes crab simmer in coconut milk with green and ripe plantain, basil and culantro. It is creamy, a little sweet from the ripe plantain, and fragrant with herbs, best eaten from a wide bowl with rice or pan de coco. Use raw prawns that smell of the sea and fish with bright flesh; if you add crab, buy cleaned raw crab pieces from the fishmonger. The common mistake is adding the fish too early, so it breaks into shreds; it goes in for the last few minutes only. Chef's tip: mash one cooked piece of green plantain into the broth to thicken it, the way Garifuna cooks do.

65 minCentral American Fish

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pan bonDark spiced fruit and cheese bread

On Costa Rica's Caribbean coast, the Afro-Caribbean families of Limón and Cahuita bake pan bon for Easter, Christmas and any big gathering, a recipe brought by Jamaican railway workers in the late 1800s. The loaf is dark and fragrant with molasses and burnt-sugar syrup, studded with raisins, candied peel and little cubes of salty cheese that melt into pockets. It is sliced thick and eaten with coffee. Dense, heavy loaves usually come from adding the fruit and cheese too early; knead them in only after the dough is smooth. Hard cheese is often made with animal rennet, so pick a vegetarian one if needed. Chef's tip: brush the warm loaf with the burnt-sugar syrup straight from the oven for its signature sticky, shining crust.

120 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pan de coco garífunaCoconut milk bread rolls

In Garifuna towns along the Caribbean coast, from Dangriga in Belize to Trujillo and La Ceiba in Honduras, pan de coco is baked almost every morning and eaten with fried fish, beans or a bowl of hudut. The dough is made with coconut milk in place of water, which gives soft, slightly sweet rolls with a golden crust and a faint coconut perfume; this version uses coconut oil and is fully vegan. The common mistake is using coconut milk that is too hot, which kills the yeast: it should feel just warm on your wrist. Chef's tip: if you can, grate a fresh coconut and squeeze it with hot water to make your own milk, as Garifuna bakers do; the flavour is noticeably richer.

125 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Powder bunsCoconut raisin buns

Called powder buns because baking powder, not yeast, makes them rise, these lightly sweet buns are what Belizean families in Belize City and the Cayo district bake for afternoon tea or a breakfast with coffee. They are halfway between a scone and a soft bread roll, scented with nutmeg and enriched with coconut milk, with plump raisins throughout. Overworking the dough is the mistake that makes them tough and flat; stop mixing as soon as it comes together. Chef's tip: grate the butter straight from the freezer into the flour, which gives a lighter crumb with less rubbing.

40 minCentral American Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

HudutFish in coconut broth with plantain

Hudut is the heart of Garifuna cooking on the Caribbean coast of Honduras, in towns such as Trujillo and La Ceiba, and in Belize and Guatemala's Livingston: whole fish or fish steaks simmered in a coconut broth (sere) with garlic, onion and herbs, served with a pounded mash of green and ripe plantains (fufu) that is dipped into the soup. The mistake is mashing only green plantain, which is heavy; a mix of green and a few ripe ones gives a slightly sweet, smooth mash. Chef's tip: fry the fish briefly before it goes into the broth so it holds its shape.

70 minCentral American Fish

by KrazyBadal 0 views