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30 recipes

Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KerbelsuppeChervil soup

In Germany, Maundy Thursday is called Gründonnerstag, 'green Thursday', and many families eat something green that day for health in the coming year: spinach with eggs, herb soup or this creamy chervil soup. Chervil is one of the first herbs of spring, with a delicate taste of aniseed and parsley, and the soup is simply potato, shallot and vegetable stock blended with a big bunch of fresh chervil and finished with cream. It is ready in half an hour and gluten free. Chef's tip: add the chervil only at the very end and blend straight away, because heat quickly dulls its colour and flavour.

30 min

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FliederbeersuppeElderberry soup with dumplings

In northern Germany, from Hamburg to Schleswig-Holstein, the elder bushes hang heavy with black berries in late summer, and a bowl of hot Fliederbeersuppe is a harvest-time comfort around Erntedank, said to keep colds away for the winter. The dark purple soup is sweet and tart, with pieces of apple and little fluffy semolina dumplings (Grießklößchen) floating on top. It is eaten as a first course or a light supper, hot in autumn and sometimes cold in summer. Important: elderberries must be fully ripe, stripped from every stem and always cooked, as raw berries, stems and leaves can make you sick. Chef's tip: strip the berries with a fork straight into a bowl; it is quick and leaves the green stems behind.

60 min

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PichelsteinerBeef, pork and vegetable stew

Every summer the town of Regen in the Bavarian Forest holds a Pichelsteiner festival in honour of this layered stew, said to have been first cooked on the Büchelstein hill in the 1800s. Cubes of beef and pork shoulder are stacked in a heavy pot with potatoes, carrots, celeriac, leek and cabbage, a little marrow-bone fat or butter goes between the layers, and the whole thing cooks gently without stirring. Each spoonful mixes tender meat with soft vegetables in a clear, peppery broth. Stirring early is the classic mistake: the potatoes turn to mush. Chef's tip: brown the meat well first and the broth turns a rich amber instead of pale grey.

130 min

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KohlrabisuppeKohlrabi soup

When the first pale-green kohlrabi arrive at market stalls in Hamburg, Bremen and across Lower Saxony in May, many families turn them into this gentle, creamy soup for a light lunch. Kohlrabi is cooked with a little potato for body, blended smooth and finished with cream, nutmeg and the bulb's own chopped young leaves, which taste like mild cabbage. Bread and butter is all it needs. A common mistake is leaving the woody lower part of the skin on: peel thickly, or fibres will spoil the texture. Chef's tip: keep the smallest, most tender leaves, shred them finely and stir them in raw at the end for colour and a fresh bite.

40 min

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SchnippelbohneneintopfRunner bean stew

Schnippelbohnen are runner beans sliced thinly on the slant, and in Westphalia and the Osnabrück area every late-summer kitchen once had a bean slicer clamped to the table. The beans go into a one-pot stew with potatoes, onion, savory and smoked pork belly, eaten on cool September weekdays and often made with salted beans from a crock in winter. This version uses fresh beans and pork belly; for a vegetarian pot, leave out the pork, use vegetable stock and add a teaspoon of smoked paprika. A common mistake is cutting the beans too thick, so they stay squeaky. Chef's tip: a splash of vinegar at the end lifts the smoky broth the way the old salted beans did.

75 min

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BärlauchsuppeWild garlic soup

In March and April the beech woods of the Bavarian foothills, the Vienna Woods and the Swabian Jura carpet themselves with wild garlic, and inns from Munich to Graz put this bright green soup on their spring menus. A simple potato and onion base is blended with a big handful of raw leaves at the last moment, so the colour stays vivid and the garlic flavour fresh. Serve it with croutons or a swirl of sour cream. Foragers must be sure of their leaves, since wild garlic can be confused with poisonous lily of the valley; buy from a reliable source or a market. Cooking the leaves too long is the mistake that turns the soup khaki. Chef's tip: blend the leaves in off the heat and serve straight away.

30 min

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HochzeitssuppeWedding soup with meatballs

At weddings in Lower Saxony and Westphalia the meal begins with this soup, often served at village inns around Hanover and Münster long before the roast arrives. A clear beef broth carries three garnishes: tiny meatballs of beef and pork, cubes of Eierstich (a steamed egg custard) and pieces of asparagus or peas, so every spoonful has something different. It can be prepared in stages a day ahead, which is why it suits a crowd. A common mistake is boiling the meatballs hard, which clouds the broth. Chef's tip: poach the meatballs separately in salted water, then add them to the clear broth just before serving.

180 min

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SteckrübeneintopfSwede stew

Swede carries hard memories in northern Germany, where it fed families through the 'turnip winter' of 1916–17, yet in Mecklenburg, Holstein and along the Elbe it is loved again as a sweet, golden winter stew. Chunks of swede, potato and carrot cook down in broth with smoked pork shoulder (Kasseler) until some of the vegetables collapse and thicken the pot, and it is ladled out on frosty days with mustard and dark bread. Expect a mellow, earthy sweetness. The usual mistake is cutting the swede too large; it takes longer than potato, so keep the cubes small. Chef's tip: mash a few ladles of vegetables against the side of the pot at the end for a thick, creamy stew without any flour.

90 min

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GrünkernsuppeGreen spelt soup

Grünkern is spelt harvested half-ripe and dried over beech smoke, a trick farmers in the Bauland and Odenwald of northern Baden and Lower Franconia used when wet summers threatened the crop. Around Boxberg and Walldürn the cracked grains still go into a thick, nutty soup for autumn and winter weekday lunches, often followed by something sweet. The grains simmer with leek, carrot and celeriac until they burst and thicken the broth, and a spoon of cream and plenty of parsley go in at the end. Chef's tip: toast the cracked Grünkern in the butter until it smells like smoky popcorn before adding any liquid; skipping this leaves the soup flat and grey.

60 min

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BrennsuppeBrowned flour soup

Farmhouse kitchens in Upper Bavaria and the Swabian Allgäu once started the day with Brennsuppe, a soup built from almost nothing: flour browned slowly in butter until it smells of hazelnuts, then whisked into water or stock with caraway and onion. Grandmothers still make it on cold evenings or for anyone feeling poorly, with cubes of stale bread toasted in the pan and a heap of chives on top. It tastes far richer than its ingredients suggest. The usual mistake is rushing the roux on a high heat, so it scorches and turns bitter instead of nutty. Chef's tip: whisk the stock in a little at a time while it is cold or lukewarm, and the soup stays perfectly smooth.

25 min

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SpargelcremesuppeCream of asparagus soup

During Spargelzeit, from April to 24 June, kitchens around Schwetzingen, Beelitz and Schrobenhausen fill with white asparagus, and nothing is wasted. The peelings and woody ends are simmered into a light stock, which becomes this velvety cream soup with a few tender tips floating on top, served as a starter before the big asparagus platter or as lunch on its own. Its flavour is delicate, slightly sweet and nutty. Using a strong stock cube is the mistake to avoid; it drowns the asparagus. Chef's tip: a pinch of sugar and a squeeze of lemon in the stock balance the faint bitterness of the peel.

55 min

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Pira caldoCreamy fish soup with cheese

Along the Paraguay River from Asunción to Concepción, pira caldo is the fishermen's soup, said to restore strength after a long night: chunks of firm river fish poached in a broth of onion, peppers and tomato fried in fat, then made creamy with milk and melted fresh cheese. Surubí or other catfish is traditional; any firm white fish such as hake or pollock works. The mistake most people make is boiling the soup after the milk and cheese go in, which splits it. Chef's tip: fry the vegetables until they are very soft and sweet before adding the water; that is where the flavour comes from.

60 min

Paraguayan Soups

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Jwano ko jholCarom seed broth

Jwano ko jhol is the soup Nepali families make for a mother in the weeks after a birth, and for anyone in the house who has a cold during the Kathmandu winter. Carom seeds are fried in ghee with a spoon of flour until nutty, then whisked with water, garlic and ginger into a thin, peppery, slightly thyme-like broth that is sipped hot from a bowl or poured over rice. The usual mistake is burning the jwano: it turns bitter in seconds, so take it off the heat as soon as it darkens a shade. Chef's tip: whisk the water in a little at a time, as with gravy, so the flour never forms lumps.

25 min

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ThenthukHand-pulled noodle soup

In the Tibetan restaurants around Boudha stupa in Kathmandu, thenthuk is what people order on cold evenings and winter mornings: pieces of dough are pulled flat and pinched straight into a light broth with mutton or buffalo, tomato, radish and spinach. The noodles are thick, soft and slightly uneven, and the soup is gentle and warming, with a little soy and spring onion. This home version uses mutton or lamb. Contains wheat and soya. Chef's tip: pull the dough so thin you can almost see your fingers through it; thick pieces stay doughy in the middle.

50 min

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ShyakpaHand-torn dough and yak stew

In the stone lodges of Namche Bazaar and the villages of Solukhumbu, shyakpa is what a Sherpa family cooks on the hearth when the wind comes down off the glaciers: a thick, peppery stew of yak meat, potato and white radish, with pieces of fresh dough pinched straight off a ball and dropped into the pot to cook like chunky noodles. It is eaten from big bowls at the end of a long day's trekking, often with a spoonful of fiery tomato and chilli achar. Yak is rare outside the Himalaya, so beef or lamb is the usual swap, and a vegetables-only shyakpa with extra potato, radish and greens is just as common. Many cooks drop all the dough in at once, which clumps it into a stodgy mass; add it in batches and stir. Chef's tip: let the dough rest for 15 minutes so it stretches thin without tearing.

65 min

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Sinki ko jholFermented radish soup

Sinki is the radish answer to gundruk: in late autumn, families in Ilam, Dhankuta and Terhathum pack chunks of radish root into pits lined with straw or into airtight jars, let them ferment for a few weeks, then cut and sun-dry the pieces into chewy, pungent strips that last all year. In winter and through the monsoon, a handful turns a pot of water, tomato, garlic and chilli into a thin, tangy, warming soup that is poured over rice or drunk from a bowl alongside dal bhat. It is light, sharp and savoury, and many people in the hills swear by it for a cold or a heavy stomach. It goes wrong if the sinki is not rinsed and soaked, so the soup tastes musty and gritty. Chef's tip: soak the strips in warm water for 10 minutes, squeeze them dry and fry them briefly in the oil before the water goes in, which mellows the funk and brings out a pleasant smokiness.

30 min

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Sisnu ko jholStinging nettle soup

Sisnu grows wild along every terrace wall and trail in the middle hills, and before vegetables were easy to buy it was the green that kept villages going through the dry season; Rai and Magar families still pick the tender tips with tongs or with a cloth wrapped round the hand. Cooked, the sting disappears completely, leaving a deep green, silky soup that tastes somewhere between spinach and seaweed, thickened with a spoonful of cornmeal and seasoned with garlic, chilli, jimbu and timur. It is poured over rice or eaten with dhido, and many Kathmandu restaurants now serve it as a proud reminder of hill cooking. Never handle the raw leaves bare-handed; the sting lasts for hours. Chef's tip: wear rubber gloves until the nettles have been in boiling water for a minute, and pick only the top four to six leaves of each shoot.

30 min

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FlädlesuppeBeef broth with pancake strips

In Swabia, Flädlesuppe opens Sunday lunch, wedding dinners and many a Stuttgart inn meal: a clear, golden beef broth with thin ribbons of pancake, the Flädle, and a scatter of chives. The broth is simmered slowly from beef shin and a bone, and the pancakes are cooked, rolled up and sliced like noodles. For a vegetarian version, make the same pancakes and serve them in a strong vegetable broth with browned onion. Chef's tip: never let the broth boil hard; a lazy simmer keeps it clear instead of cloudy.

170 min

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Berliner KartoffelsuppePotato and root vegetable soup

This is the soup of Berlin's cheap lunch counters and winter kitchens: potatoes and the 'Suppengrün' bundle of carrot, celeriac, leek and parsley root, simmered thick and seasoned with plenty of marjoram. In Berlin it usually comes with a sliced Wiener sausage floating on top; this vegetarian version is finished instead with crisp fried onions and croutons, which give the same savoury contrast. A common mistake is using waxy potatoes, which never thicken the soup; you want floury ones that collapse. Chef's tip: rub the dried marjoram between your palms as it goes in, which wakes up its sweet, piney scent.

50 min

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CalapurcaHominy and meat soup

Nobody hurries calapurca. In the villages of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, especially around Carnival and the August Pachamama rites, cooks heat stones in the fire until they glow and then drop them into a clay pot of soup made from dried maize, beef and lamb (or llama), potatoes and chilli, so it boils up in a hiss of steam and takes on a faintly smoky taste. Bowls are passed around the gathering with a sprinkle of fresh herbs. The stones are a ritual best left to people who know which ones are safe, because wet or river stones can crack or burst when heated, so this home version simply simmers on the stove. Look for dried white hominy (mote, or pozole corn) in Latin American shops; it needs soaking overnight. The usual problem is undercooked corn: it needs a good 2 hours before the meat goes in. Chef's tip: for a hint of the smoky flavour, char the onion and a dried chilli in a dry pan before adding them.

200 min

Argentinian Soups

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Gaisburger MarschBeef stew with potatoes and spätzle

Gaisburger Marsch is named after Gaisburg, a district of Stuttgart, and the story goes that officer cadets marched there from barracks for it. It is a hearty Swabian one-pot of beef broth, cubes of boiled beef, potatoes and spätzle, crowned with onions fried in butter until sweet and brown, and it is still a weekday lunch in Stuttgart pubs and canteens. Chef's tip: cook the potatoes in the strained broth rather than in water, so they soak up the beef flavour.

180 min

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Grumbeersupp mit QuetschekuchePotato soup with plum cake

In the Palatinate, between the Rhine and the vineyards of the Weinstraße, September brings a pairing that puzzles outsiders: a bowl of creamy potato soup served with a slice of plum tray cake on the side, and you dip the cake as you go. It is a plain, cheap farmhouse supper for plum season, and the sweet-sour fruit against the soft, marjoram-scented soup is the whole joy. This version makes a small tray of yeasted plum cake while the soup simmers. A common mistake is sweetening the soup; it should stay savoury so the cake can do the sweet work. Chef's tip: use dark, oval Zwetschgen plums, which hold their shape; round dessert plums go watery.

90 min

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PucheroBoiled beef and vegetable stew

Winter Sundays in the towns of Buenos Aires Province mean a big pot of puchero bubbling from mid-morning: beef shin and brisket on the bone, a marrow bone, chickpeas, corn on the cob, squash, sweet potato, potato, carrots and cabbage, all simmered together. The meal comes in two courses, as in the Spanish cocido it descends from: first the golden broth, often with fine noodles or rice, then a platter of meat and vegetables doused with olive oil, salt and a spoon of salsa criolla. It is gentle and clean-tasting rather than rich. Many families add chorizo colorado or pancetta (pork); this version keeps to beef. Plan for the chickpeas to soak overnight. Boiling it hard is the classic mistake, which clouds the broth and toughens the meat; it should barely shiver. Chef's tip: add the vegetables in stages, longest-cooking first, so the cabbage and squash hold their shape instead of dissolving.

190 min

Argentinian Soups

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