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587 recipes

Shirasu donRice bowl with whitebait

Shirasu don comes from the Shonan coast around Enoshima and Kamakura, where the fishing boats bring in tiny whitebait from spring to autumn and cafés serve them boiled and piled over rice for lunch. At home it makes a five-minute supper: the little fish are soft, salty and sweet like the sea, lifted by spring onion, ginger and fresh shiso. Buy kamaage or kama-age shirasu, the ready-boiled kind sold chilled in Japanese shops; keep it in the fridge and use it by the date on the pack. Don't use raw (nama) shirasu at home. The common mistake is pouring soy all over; the fish are already salted, so a few drops are enough. Chef's tip: lay the shirasu on the rice in a loose heap rather than pressing it flat, so it stays fluffy and moist.

5 min

Japanese Fish

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Nasu no miso itameMiso-glazed aubergine

Nasu no miso itame is a summer weeknight favourite across Japan, when aubergines are cheap and glossy: chunks are fried until creamy, then glazed in a sticky sauce of miso, soy, sugar and mirin and spooned over hot rice. Mirin contains a little alcohol, which mostly cooks off as the sauce bubbles; for an alcohol-free version use 1 tbsp water with an extra ½ tsp sugar. The common mistake is adding all the oil at once: aubergine drinks it, so start with a little, cover briefly to steam the pieces soft, then finish with more. Chef's tip: mix the sauce before you start, because miso burns within seconds once it hits the hot pan.

15 min

Japanese Vegetarian

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TenshinhanCrab omelette on rice

Tenshinhan, sometimes called tenshindon, is a Japanese invention served in the small Chinese-style chuka restaurants of Tokyo and Osaka, ordered at lunch and for a cheap, filling dinner. A fluffy omelette studded with crab and spring onion is slid over a mound of rice, then the whole plate is coated in a shiny amber sauce that is both sweet and a little sharp. It works well with tinned crab or crab sticks (which are made from fish and often contain wheat). The common mistake is tipping the cornflour slurry into the sauce without stirring, which makes lumps; pour it in a thin stream while stirring constantly. Chef's tip: add the vinegar only after the sauce has thickened, so its brightness isn't boiled away.

15 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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Neko manmaRice with bonito flakes and soy

Neko manma means 'cat's rice', a joking name for the bowl that people all over Japan make late at night or on the evening the fridge is empty: steaming rice, a handful of dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and a little soy sauce, stirred together. The flakes wilt and curl in the heat and give the rice a smoky, savoury flavour; some homes splash over the last of the miso soup instead. The mistake is drowning it in soy, which turns the flakes soggy and the rice salty; a teaspoon is plenty. Chef's tip: crumble the bonito between your fingers over the rice so the finer flakes melt into every grain.

5 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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Kake sobaBuckwheat noodles in hot broth

Kake soba is the bare, honest bowl served at the stand-up noodle counters inside Tokyo railway stations, slurped in a few minutes by commuters on the way home and made at home on cold nights when nobody wants to cook. Grey-brown buckwheat noodles sit in a dark, savoury broth of bonito dashi, soy sauce and mirin, with a heap of sliced spring onion on top. The broth uses mirin, a sweet rice wine; it simmers briefly so most of the alcohol cooks off, and for an alcohol-free bowl use 2 tsp sugar instead. The usual mistake is skipping the cold rinse: unrinsed soba is coated in starch, turns gummy and clouds the broth. Chef's tip: pour a ladle of the hot noodle water into each bowl while the soba cooks, then tip it out, so the warm bowls keep the broth steaming to the last mouthful.

13 min

Japanese Pasta & Noodles

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Somen chanpuruStir-fried noodles with tuna

In Okinawa, somen chanpuru (also called somen tashiya) is what a grandmother throws together when the family turns up hungry: thin somen noodles boiled for a minute, then tossed in a hot pan with tinned tuna, spring onion and a little dashi. It's a lunch or easy dinner, salty, slippery and comforting. Many Okinawan cooks use tinned pork luncheon meat instead of tuna, so check which you're being served if you avoid pork; this version uses tuna. The common mistake is not rinsing and draining the somen well, which leaves the noodles clumped into one sticky lump in the pan. Chef's tip: toss the drained noodles with a teaspoon of oil before they meet the pan, and they'll stay separate.

10 min

Japanese Pasta & Noodles

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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DouaraLamb tripe and chickpea stew

Douara is the dish that fills Algerian kitchens on the second day of Eid al-Adha, when the tripe, intestines and lung from the family's sacrifice are cleaned, cut small and stewed slowly with chickpeas, plenty of garlic, cumin and paprika. The sauce is deep red and peppery and the offal turns tender and rich. At home, cleaned lamb or beef tripe and lamb heart from a halal butcher make an easy start; lung can be added if your butcher sells it. Chef's tip: blanch the tripe first in water with a squeeze of lemon to freshen the flavour before it goes into the stew.

180 min

Algerian Meat

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KesraSemolina pan bread

Kesra is the flat semolina bread of Algerian homes, and in Ramadan a fresh round sits on almost every iftar table, cooked on a clay tajine and torn into pieces to dip into hot chorba frik. This unleavened version is a thin, crumbly-edged galette, golden in patches and slightly chewy in the middle, with a nutty taste from the olive oil. It is made in minutes before sunset so it reaches the table still warm. Chef's tip: work the dough only until it holds together; kneading it like a yeast bread makes kesra tough instead of tender.

40 min

Algerian Breads & Parathas

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KourdassGrilled lamb liver bundles

After the sacrifice of Eid al-Adha, Moroccan families use every part of the lamb, and kourdass is one of the dishes made in the days that follow: pieces of tripe and liver rubbed with cumin and paprika, wrapped in caul fat and traditionally hung up to air-dry before grilling. This home version skips the drying, which is hard to do safely in a modern kitchen, and grills the bundles fresh over charcoal or under a grill until the fat crisps and the liver is cooked through. Buy cleaned, pre-cooked tripe and caul fat from a halal butcher. Chef's tip: wrap the bundles tightly so the caul fat bastes them as it melts.

90 min

Moroccan Meat

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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TihaneStuffed lamb spleen

Tihane, or tehal, is an old Eid al-Adha speciality from Moroccan towns such as Fez and Marrakech, made on the days after the sacrifice when the offal is shared out. The lamb's spleen is cut open into a pocket and stuffed with chopped liver and heart, a little fat, green olives, preserved lemon, garlic and cumin, then sewn shut, poached and roasted until browned. It is sliced thin and eaten warm or cold with bread. Ask a halal butcher for the spleen and offal. Chef's tip: prick the spleen with a fine needle before poaching so it doesn't burst in the pot.

130 min

Moroccan Meat

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Kubu irichi (Okinawan kombu stir-fry)

In Okinawa, kubu irichi is cooked for Obon (here called Shōmō or Ukui), when families welcome the spirits of their ancestors home with offerings, and it reappears at every big family gathering. Kombu, 'kubu' in the island dialect, sounds like 'yorokobu', to rejoice, and Okinawa has loved it for centuries thanks to the old kelp trade from Hokkaido. Strips of pork belly are stir-fried until their fat runs, then the kelp, konnyaku and carrot simmer in pork-scented stock until the liquid is absorbed, giving a soft, savoury, gently sweet tangle full of the sea. Serve with rice, as part of an Obon spread or a bentō. Chef's tip: keep some of the kombu soaking water; it is the stock that gives the dish its depth.

45 min

Japanese Meat

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Ebi no umani (simmered prawns)

Bright red prawns curled like a bent back sit in every Shōgatsu osechi box in Japan as a wish to live until your back is bent with age, and their red is the colour of celebration. Simmered briefly in dashi, soy and sugar, they stay plump and juicy, and cooling in the liquid gives them a sweet-savoury flavour right through to the shell. The liquid includes sake and mirin, both rice wines; for no alcohol, replace the sake with extra dashi and the mirin with 3 tbsp water plus 1 tbsp sugar. Use frozen head-on prawns, thawed in the fridge. Serve cold or at room temperature in the osechi box, or warm with rice. Chef's tip: lift the prawns out as soon as they turn pink, reduce the liquid, then return them; this keeps them tender.

20 min

Japanese Fish

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Setsubun iwashi (salt-grilled sardines)

In the Kansai region, Setsubun in early February is the night for grilled sardines: the smoke and strong smell are said to keep demons away, and many homes still fix a sardine head on a sprig of holly by the door (hiiragi iwashi) as a charm. Eating the oily fish is thought to keep you well through the turn of the season. Salt-grilling is the simplest way to cook them: crisp, salty, blistered skin over rich, soft flesh, cut by the cool sharpness of grated daikon and a squeeze of lemon. Serve with plain rice and miso soup. Chef's tip: salt the fish 15 minutes ahead and pat off the beads of moisture before grilling, which takes away the fishy edge and lets the skin crisp.

20 min

Japanese Fish

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Kuwai no nimono (simmered arrowhead)

Kuwai, the arrowhead tuber with its proud little sprout, appears in osechi boxes in Kansai and across Japan because it says 'me ga deru': a bud comes out, a wish for success and for children to grow and thrive. It tastes like a cross between chestnut and potato, with a faint pleasant bitterness, and simmering it slowly in sweet dashi gives it a smooth, dense texture. This version is vegan, using kombu dashi, and the seasoning includes mirin, a sweet rice wine (for no alcohol, swap the mirin for 2 tbsp water plus 2 tsp sugar). Serve it at room temperature among the other osechi dishes, or with grilled fish and rice. Chef's tip: leave the tubers to cool completely in their liquid; that is when they soak up the flavour.

45 min

Japanese Sides

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Kazunoko (marinated herring roe)

Kazunoko, golden sacs of herring roe, is a jewel of the Shōgatsu osechi box all over Japan: its thousands of tiny eggs ask for many children and a family that keeps growing, and its name hints at 'number of children'. Its charm is texture: each bite pops and crunches, with a clean, mild sea taste carried by a dashi and soy marinade. The marinade includes mirin, a sweet rice wine, which is briefly boiled; for no alcohol, use 1 tbsp water plus 1 tsp sugar. Serve cold in small pieces, topped with katsuobushi flakes, with other osechi dishes or rice. The roe is salt-cured and not cooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Chef's tip: desalt in lightly salted water, not plain water; it draws the salt out evenly without making the roe bitter.

30 min

Japanese Fish

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Nanohana karashi-ae (rapeseed blossoms with mustard)

Nanohana, the budding shoots of the rapeseed plant, arrive in Japanese shops at the end of winter, and their little yellow-green flower heads are a sign that spring has come. That makes them a natural side dish for Hinamatsuri on 3 March, next to chirashizushi and clam soup. The greens are blanched just until tender, then dressed with Japanese karashi mustard loosened with soy sauce and kombu dashi: pleasantly bitter, nose-tinglingly hot and very fresh. Outside Japan, tenderstem broccoli or cime di rapa works almost as well. Chef's tip: dress the greens at the last minute, because the soy starts to dull the green colour within half an hour.

15 min

Japanese Sides

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Kuri gohan (chestnut rice)

Kuri gohan is one of the great dishes of the Japanese autumn, made all over the country when fresh chestnuts arrive in September, and it is often eaten around the harvest moon, when chestnuts are offered beside dumplings and taro (the later moon-viewing in October is even nicknamed the "chestnut moon"). Sweet, fluffy chunks of chestnut sit in salty, slightly sticky rice scented with kombu, and the dish is all about the season's bounty. It traditionally uses a spoonful of sake; this is optional, and plain water works perfectly well for an alcohol-free version. Serve with miso soup, pickles and grilled fish, sprinkled with black sesame salt. Chef's tip: soak the chestnuts in hot water for 30 minutes before peeling; the shells soften and the furry inner skin lifts away far more easily.

75 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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