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Telur gulung (Indonesian rolled egg skewers)

Telur gulung is a cheap, cheerful street snack sold from little carts outside primary schools across Java, where children watch the vendor pour beaten egg into hot oil and roll it onto a stick in seconds. The result is a puffy, golden, slightly crisp egg spiral, usually eaten with a squirt of chilli or tomato sauce. At home it is easy to make in a small pan with a little more care. It contains egg. Chef's tip: the oil must be hot enough that a drop of egg puffs up instantly; in cool oil the egg sinks and turns greasy.

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ChaplasHollow puffed Andean bread

Walk through Ayacucho's central market at seven in the morning and you will see women selling stacks of chaplas from cloth-lined baskets, still warm from the wood-fired ovens of the Andes. These round wheat breads puff up like pita in the fierce heat, leaving a hollow pocket inside a thin, soft, lightly floury crust. In Ayacucho and Huancavelica they are eaten with sweet coffee or hot emoliente for breakfast, or split and filled with queso fresco, avocado or a spoonful of rocoto sauce. Highland bakers traditionally work in a little lard; vegetable shortening gives the same tenderness and keeps the bread vegan. A cool baking tray is the reason chaplas stay flat, so preheat it thoroughly. Chef's tip: let the rolled rounds rest before baking and flip them upside down onto the tray, so the smooth, dry side meets the heat first and the pocket opens evenly.

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Nasi tim ayam for toddlersSteamed chicken and mushroom rice

Nasi tim ayam comes from the Chinese-Indonesian kitchens of Java, and is the meal many Indonesian children eat when they first move on from porridge: rice steamed slowly in a bowl over diced chicken and mushrooms until very soft, then turned out like a little dome. For toddlers the seasoning is just garlic, ginger, a few drops of sesame oil and a little low-salt soy sauce. It contains soya and gluten (soy sauce) and sesame. Chef's tip: use no-salt stock in the rice; it soaks up the flavour of the chicken as it steams.

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Kärntner ReindlingCinnamon raisin yeast cake

Carinthia's Easter loaf takes its name from the Reindl, the round, deep pan it is baked in, and in southern Austria no Easter basket goes to church without one. Inside the golden yeast crust is a spiral of butter, cinnamon sugar and plump raisins, so every slice shows a dark swirl. Locals eat it two ways: sweet with coffee on Easter morning, or alongside the savoury Easter platter with horseradish. Many bakers soak the raisins in rum overnight; warm water or tea works just as well and keeps it alcohol-free. A dry, crumbly Reindling usually means too much flour went in during kneading, so keep the dough soft and only lightly floured. Chef's tip: butter the pan well and dust it with sugar, which caramelises into a thin crunchy shell.

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Bubur merah putih (red and white porridge)

In Java, bubur merah putih is cooked for a baby's naming day, a child's birthday or a new house: a red-brown porridge sweetened with palm sugar and a white one rich with coconut milk, spooned side by side into one bowl. The red is said to stand for courage and the white for purity, and the bowls are shared with neighbours as thanks. The family and older children eat the sweetened red half; it is not for babies under one because of the sugar. Free of milk, egg, gluten, nuts and soya. Chef's tip: tie a pandan leaf in a knot and simmer it in both pots for a gentle vanilla-like scent.

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Bubur saring (sieved rice and vegetable porridge)

Indonesian parents call a baby's first solids MPASI, and the first stage is bubur saring: rice porridge cooked with vegetables and pressed through a sieve until velvety. Across Java it is often made each morning in a small pot and given at lunchtime, with a daun salam (Indonesian bay leaf) for a gentle scent. Carrot gives it colour and sweetness, spinach a soft green flavour. There are no common allergens in it (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). Chef's tip: add the spinach only in the last few minutes, so it stays green and doesn't turn the porridge grey.

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Nasi tumpengTurmeric coconut rice cone

In Java, and now across Indonesia, a birthday, a new house or a child's first school day is marked with a tumpeng: a tall cone of golden turmeric rice cooked in coconut milk, set on a banana leaf and surrounded by side dishes. The top is cut off and handed to the guest of honour, often the birthday child, before everyone shares the rest. This home version keeps the sides mild for children: sweet soy chicken, boiled eggs, crisp tempeh and blanched vegetables. It contains soya and egg. For a vegetarian tumpeng, leave out the chicken and double the tempeh. Chef's tip: pack the rice into a cone made from a rolled sheet of baking paper or a large funnel lined with cling film, then turn it out in one go.

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Roti bakar (Indonesian toasted bread)

Roti bakar stalls light up street corners all over Indonesia from late afternoon, and children from Jakarta to Surabaya beg for the classic filling of chocolate sprinkles with grated cheese, an unlikely pairing that works. Thick slices of soft bread are spread with butter, toasted on a hot plate until crisp and golden, filled and cut into fingers. Traditional versions add a lot of condensed milk; here it is an optional drizzle. It contains gluten and milk (and may contain soya in the chocolate). Chef's tip: press the bread flat with a spatula as it toasts so the filling melts into it.

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Bubur ayam for little onesChicken rice porridge for babies

Bubur ayam is breakfast from street carts all over West Java and the rest of Indonesia: soft rice porridge topped with shredded chicken, fried shallots, crackers and sweet soy. At home, families cook one plain pot fragrant with ginger and salam leaf, take out the baby's bowl first, unsalted, with the chicken finely shredded, and add the toppings for everyone else. The baby's portion has none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish); the family toppings add soya and gluten. Chef's tip: cooking the rice in the chicken poaching liquid gives the baby's bowl plenty of flavour without salt.

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RohlíkSalt and caraway breakfast roll

Ask a Czech or Slovak what they ate for breakfast as a child and the answer is usually a rohlík: a long, slim roll rolled up from a triangle of dough, sold for a few crowns at every bakery and supermarket from Prague to Bratislava. It has a thin, crisp golden crust scattered with coarse salt and caraway, and a soft, tight spiral inside. People eat it with butter and jam, with a spread such as egg or bean pomazánka, with a cup of white coffee, or simply dunked in a mug of cocoa. This version uses sunflower oil, so it is vegan. Rolling the triangles loosely is the usual mistake; the spiral opens in the oven and the roll splits. Chef's tip: stretch each triangle gently by its point as you roll it up, which keeps the coil tight and gives the long, even shape.

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Buchtičky se šodó (tiny buns in vanilla custard)

Ask anyone who went to school in Czechia or Slovakia about the canteen, and buchtičky se šodó comes up with a smile: a bowl of tiny, soft, buttery yeast buns baked close together and pulled apart, sitting in warm vanilla custard. Families make it at home as a sweet main course or afternoon treat, especially in winter. The custard here is lightly sweetened. It contains gluten, milk and egg. Chef's tip: brush the buns with melted butter before they go into the tin, so they pull apart cleanly after baking.

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Roti buayaCrocodile-shaped bread

Crocodiles, to the Betawi people of Jakarta, stand for faithfulness: they are said to take one mate for life. So in a Betawi wedding procession the groom's family carries a pair of roti buaya, a large male crocodile bread and a female one, often with a baby crocodile on her back, alongside the other gifts for the bride. Once the ceremony is over the bread is cut and shared among the guests and neighbours. Old-style roti buaya was plain and firm; today's are soft, lightly sweet milk bread, and some are filled with chocolate or kaya. Eat slices with coffee or sweet tea. Snipping the scales too shallowly is a common slip, since they close up as the dough rises; cut decisively at a steep angle. Chef's tip: shape the crocodile straight on the lined tray and build it from one main log, adding only the legs, so it does not crack apart in the oven.

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Pan chutaAniseed round bread

The small town of Oropesa, half an hour from Cusco, calls itself Peru's bread capital, and its wood-fired bakeries are famous for chuta: big, flat, round loaves as wide as a dinner plate, glossy on top, with a faint sweetness and the warmth of aniseed. Travellers on the road to Puno and Bolivia stop to buy them by the bagful, and families bring them home for All Saints' Day and for sharing with hot coca tea or coffee, fresh cheese and butter. The bakeries traditionally use lard; this version uses vegetable shortening and butter, so it is vegetarian. The make-or-break moment is the proof: chuta is large and flat, and if it goes in under-risen it bakes dense and splits at the rim. Chef's tip: toast the aniseed for a minute in a dry pan and crush it lightly before adding, for a rounder, sweeter perfume.

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Cilok (Sundanese tapioca balls with peanut sauce)

Cilok comes from Bandung in West Java, where its name is short for 'aci dicolok', tapioca you stab with a stick, and vendors sell it outside schools from steaming carts. The little balls are chewy and bouncy with garlic and spring onion through them, dunked in a thick peanut sauce that is sweet, savoury and only gently spicy for children. It contains peanuts, soya and gluten (sweet soy sauce). Chef's tip: pour boiling water onto part of the starch first; that scalded paste is what keeps cilok soft and stretchy instead of hard.

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ErdäpfelstrudelSavoury potato strudel

Austrians, especially in the Mühlviertel of Upper Austria and the Waldviertel, make savoury strudels as often as sweet ones, and Erdäpfelstrudel is a farmhouse favourite for a meatless Friday or a cold evening. Thin pastry wraps a filling of potatoes, fried onion, sour cream, marjoram and parsley, baked until crisp and golden and sliced with a green salad or a dill and sour-cream dip. Bought filo makes it easy at home. The mistake to avoid is a wet filling, which turns the pastry soggy underneath. Chef's tip: cool the filling completely before rolling; warm filling makes the layers stick and tear.

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Shlada khiar (grated cucumber salad with oregano)

In the heat of a Fes or Marrakech summer, this ice-cold grated cucumber salad is served in bowls with spoons, half salad, half drink, alongside rich tagines or a plate of fried fish. Cucumber is grated and loosened with water, vinegar and a little sugar, then perfumed with crushed dried oregano or zaatar. Grating ahead and leaving it to sit in salt is the usual slip; the cucumber goes limp and bitter. Chef's tip: rub the oregano between your palms over the bowl to wake its oils.

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Shlada batata (Moroccan cumin potato salad)

Shlada batata is one of the cooked salads that line up on a Moroccan table before Friday couscous, in Rabat as much as in the Rif: boiled potato chunks dressed while warm with olive oil, lemon, cumin, paprika, garlic and plenty of parsley, with no mayonnaise at all. It's eaten at room temperature with bread, or with grilled sardines. Dressing cold potatoes is the common mistake; they don't absorb the flavours, so toss them while they're still steaming. Chef's tip: a few slivers of preserved lemon peel make it unmistakably Moroccan.

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Lapis legitThousand-layer spice cake

Indonesian Chinese and Dutch-descended families bake lapis legit for Christmas, Imlek and Lebaran, and in Jakarta a whole cake is a prized gift that can cost a small fortune. Rich batter of butter and a great many egg yolks, scented with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and cardamom, is grilled one thin layer at a time, giving perfect tree-ring stripes when sliced. It takes an afternoon, but it is mostly patience. Slice it thinly; it is very rich. Chef's tip: press each layer gently with a flat spoon to burst air bubbles before adding the next; skipping it leaves holes and the layers separate when cut.

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Moroccan fried cauliflower in cumin batter

Casablanca home cooks fry cauliflower this way for Ramadan tables and family lunches alike: parboiled florets dipped in an egg batter heavy with cumin, paprika and parsley, then fried until puffed and golden. They're eaten hot with a squeeze of lemon or a spoon of chermoula, as a side to a tagine or on their own with bread. The common mistake is frying wet cauliflower; the batter slides off and spits, so dry the florets well after boiling. Chef's tip: keep the florets bite-sized and with a bit of stalk, so you can dip them by hand. Contains egg and wheat.

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Sweet rice briouats with honey

The old Fassi households and pastry shops of Fes and Rabat make rice briouats for Ramadan and weddings: short-grain rice cooked thick in milk with orange-blossom water, wrapped in warqa, fried and plunged into warm honey. They're crisp outside, creamy within, and served with mint tea. Runny rice pudding makes the pastry burst in the oil, so cook it until a spoon can stand in it, then chill it firm. Chef's tip: warm the honey with a splash of orange-blossom water, and dip the briouats while both are hot so the honey soaks in rather than sitting on top. Contains milk, wheat and almonds.

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Berber corn couscous with vegetables

In the Souss valley and the villages of the Middle Atlas, couscous is often made not from wheat but from cracked dried maize, which gives a sunny yellow, slightly nutty grain. It's steamed three times over a pot of turnips, carrots, courgettes and pumpkin, buttered with smen or plain butter, and eaten on Fridays with a glass of cold lben (buttermilk). Corn grits absorb more water than wheat and won't swell in one go, so the usual mistake is skipping the third steaming and serving it gritty. Chef's tip: oil your palms before rubbing the grains between steamings; the maize stays separate and never clumps. Naturally gluten free if you check your maize grits are made in a gluten-free mill.

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Sambal kecapChilli and shallot soy sambal

Satay sellers in Jakarta and Madura hand out sambal kecap in little saucers, and at home in Java it gets spooned over fried tofu, grilled corn or a bowl of soto when there's no time to pound a proper sambal. It takes five minutes: raw bird's-eye chillies, shallot and tomato are sliced into glossy, treacle-sweet kecap manis with a squeeze of lime. The result is sticky, sweet, sharp and very hot all at once. Chef's tip: don't make it hours ahead; the shallots wilt and the lime turns bitter, so slice everything just before the food comes off the grill.

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Shrimp and vermicelli briouats

In coastal cities like Agadir and El Jadida, the festive version of briouats is filled with prawns and rice vermicelli tossed in chermoula — a filling borrowed from seafood pastilla, but in a size you can eat in two bites. They come out at weddings, Eid lunches and Ramadan iftars, hot and crackling, with lemon. The usual mistake is a wet filling: cooked prawns and soaked noodles release water, so drain everything well and dry-fry the mix for a minute. Chef's tip: snip the soaked vermicelli into short lengths with scissors so the rolls fill evenly. Contains shellfish, wheat and egg.

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Cheese briouats (briwat bel fromage)

Cheese briouats are the cigars that disappear first from Ramadan tables in Rabat and Tangier: fresh, salty cheese mixed with egg, parsley and a pinch of chilli, rolled tight in warqa and fried until the pastry shatters. They're served hot, at iftar or with mint tea for afternoon guests. Overfilled cigars burst and leak cheese into the oil; a level tablespoon each is enough. Chef's tip: a little grated hard cheese in the mix stops the fresh cheese from going watery. Traditional fresh cheese like jben is made with animal rennet; choose a vegetarian one if needed. Contains milk, egg and wheat.

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