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323 recipes

Panagyurski eggsPoached eggs on garlic yogurt

Yaytsa po panagyurski come from Panagyurishte, a mountain town in central Bulgaria, and are eaten for breakfast or as a quick, light supper: poached eggs set on a bed of thick garlicky yogurt mixed with crumbled sirene, Bulgaria's white brined cheese, then drizzled with butter turned red with paprika. Sirene and feta are often made with animal rennet, so choose a vegetarian feta-style cheese if needed. The common mistake is warming the yogurt in a pan, which makes it split; let it sit at room temperature while you poach the eggs instead. Chef's tip: stir the paprika into the butter off the heat, because it scorches and turns bitter in seconds.

12 min

Bulgarian Vegetarian

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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KhajlaFried pastry rounds in sweet milk

In the old lanes of Lahore and Karachi's Burns Road, sweet shops fry khajla through the night in Ramadan so families can buy it fresh for sehri, the meal eaten before dawn. Each round is a stack of paper-thin layers of ghee-rubbed dough that shatter when you press them, and it is crumbled into a bowl of hot sweetened milk, often with fine pheni, to give slow energy for the fasting day. Chef's tip: keep the oil only medium-hot; khajla must fry slowly so every inner layer turns crisp before the outside browns.

100 min

Pakistani Desserts

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Aloo bukhara chutneyDried plum chutney

Wherever a Pakistani wedding serves biryani and qorma, a little bowl of glossy aloo bukhara chutney sits alongside to cut the richness. Dried sour plums are softened, then cooked with sugar, a touch of vinegar, ginger, chilli and warm spices into a jammy, sweet-sour relish, dark and shining. It keeps for weeks and is made in big jars before the shaadi. Chef's tip: stop cooking while it still looks a little loose; it thickens a lot as it cools.

35 min

Pakistani Chutneys & Dips

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Chana dal halwa

At Punjabi weddings in Lahore and Faisalabad in the cold months, the dessert table often carries a big tray of chana dal halwa beside the gajar halwa. Soaked split chickpeas are ground and fried slowly in ghee until they smell of roasted nuts and turn deep golden, then cooked with milk, sugar and cardamom into a rich, grainy halwa that keeps for days. It takes patience and a strong arm. Chef's tip: keep the heat low and scrape the bottom constantly; the dal catches fast once it starts to brown.

90 min

Pakistani Indian Sweets

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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KinkélibaKinkéliba leaf tea with mint

Kinkéliba is an herbal tea brewed from the dried leaves of a West African shrub, and in Senegal it is the drink families reach for at the moment of breaking the fast in Ramadan, served hot with bread or dates. The brew is amber, gently bitter and woody, softened with sugar and lifted with fresh mint. Many households also drink it at breakfast all year. Chef's tip: simmer it gently rather than boiling it hard; a fierce boil brings out too much bitterness.

15 min

Senegalese Drinks

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Svinsko s kiselo zelePork baked with sauerkraut

After the forty-day Advent fast and the meatless Christmas Eve, Bulgarians break the fast on Christmas Day with pork, and the classic dish is svinsko s kiselo zele: pork shoulder baked slowly with homemade sauerkraut, rice, paprika and bay in a clay pot until the cabbage turns soft and golden. It fills the house with a sour, savoury smell and tastes even better the next day. Chef's tip: rinse the sauerkraut if it is very sour, but keep some brine; a little sharpness is what balances the rich pork.

150 min

Bulgarian Meat

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RibnikCarp baked in bread with rice

St Nicholas (Nikulden), on 6 December, is the patron of fishermen and sailors in Bulgaria, and every family that day eats carp, and many make ribnik: a whole carp (or carp fillets) stuffed with rice, onion, walnuts and raisins, wrapped in bread dough and baked so the dough soaks up the juices. The bread and the fish are blessed and shared with neighbours. This version uses carp fillets, which avoids the bones. Chef's tip: lay the fish skin-side down on the dough and seal the seams well, so the juices stay inside.

110 min

Bulgarian Fish

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Gergyovsko agneRoast lamb with rice

St George's Day, Gergyovden, on 6 May, is one of Bulgaria's biggest festivals: George is the patron of shepherds, and every family roasts lamb, traditionally a whole one baked over rice, green onions, mint and chopped liver. Our site writes this as a boned lamb shoulder rather than a whole animal: the shoulder is slow-roasted on a bed of rice cooked with the lamb's liver, spring onions, dill and mint, which soaks up the juices. Serve with a yogurt and cucumber salad. Chef's tip: cover the lamb for most of the roast and uncover it only at the end, so it stays juicy and the rice doesn't dry out.

240 min

Bulgarian Meat

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Sabeel sharbatRose milk with basil seeds

In the first ten days of Muharram, and above all on Ashura, volunteers in Pakistani towns set up sabeel stalls at the roadside and pour free cups of cold sweet milk for anyone passing, in memory of the thirst of Imam Husain's family at Karbala. The drink is pale pink, lightly rose-scented and dotted with swollen basil seeds, and it is made in huge steel pots at the stalls; this is the home-sized jug. Chef's tip: soak the basil seeds in water first, never straight in the milk, or they stay hard and clump.

10 min

Pakistani Drinks

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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PastelsFish-filled pastries

Pastels are the party pastries of Dakar and Saint-Louis, half-moons of soft dough filled with spiced fish, parsley and onion and fried until puffed and golden. They are made by the trayful for Korité, the Senegalese Eid al-Fitr, and for baptisms and family gatherings, and come with a peppery tomato-onion sauce for dipping. Tuna or mackerel are classic fillings. Chef's tip: let the filling cool completely and squeeze it dry before filling; wet, warm filling makes the dough tear and leak in the oil.

90 min

Senegalese Fish

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Postni chushki s bobBean-stuffed dried peppers

Bulgaria's Christmas Eve supper, Budni vecher, is meatless and set with an odd number of dishes, and peppers stuffed with beans are almost always among them. The peppers are the deep-red ones dried on strings in autumn; soaked, they turn soft and sweet with a smoky edge, and they are filled with white beans cooked with onion, paprika and dried mint, then baked. They are vegan, high in protein, and just as good the next day. Fresh red peppers work if you can't find dried ones. Chef's tip: cook the beans until completely soft before stuffing, because they won't soften any further inside the peppers.

120 min

Bulgarian Vegetarian

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پشاوری آئس کریم (Peshawari ice cream)Cardamom pistachio ice cream

In the Qissa Khwani bazaar of Peshawar, ice-cream sellers spin a tall metal drum inside a tub of crushed ice and salt, scraping the freezing milk off the walls with a long paddle until it turns thick, stretchy and pale. It is a summer evening treat, eaten from small bowls after dinner or late at night when the streets cool down, and often topped with a spoonful of falooda vermicelli or more chopped pistachio. The flavour is simple: slowly reduced milk, green cardamom and a little rose. This version has no eggs and no custard: a cornflour slurry cooked into the milk thickens it the way yolks would, and the starch holds on to water so ice crystals stay small and the texture stays smooth, while milk powder adds body without extra fat. You can churn it in a machine or still-freeze it in a tray and stir it every 45 minutes. Chef's tip: the common mistake is churning a warm base; chill it until it is fridge-cold right through, or it will turn icy instead of silky.

300 min

Pakistani Desserts

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Bob chorbaWhite bean soup

Bob chorba is one of Bulgaria's best-loved soups, cooked in every region, served in monasteries such as Rila and set on the meat-free table on Christmas Eve, when the dishes must be Lenten. White beans simmer slowly with onion, carrot, peppers and tomato until creamy, then the pot is seasoned with dzhodzhen (dried mint), chubritsa (summer savory) and sweet paprika fried in oil. A bowl gives about 21 g of protein from the beans, and it is eaten with fresh bread and a hot pickled pepper alongside. Soak the beans for 12 hours first; that time is not counted below. The most common mistake is pouring paprika into very hot oil: it burns in seconds and makes the soup bitter, so take the pan off the heat first. Chef's tip: dried savory is the true taste of this soup; if you can't find it, use dried thyme with a pinch of oregano.

110 min

Bulgarian Soups

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Thiébou niébéTomato rice with black-eyed peas

Thiébou niébé is the bean version of Senegal's famous rice dish, cooked in Dakar and Saint-Louis homes as a cheaper weekday lunch and on days without fish. Black-eyed peas, cabbage, carrot, aubergine, cassava and pumpkin are simmered in a rich tomato sauce scented with garlic, parsley and chilli; the vegetables come out to be served on top, and the rice cooks in the remaining sauce until it is red, fluffy and crusted at the bottom. A generous portion gives about 22 g of protein from the black-eyed peas and rice. The peas need 6 hours of soaking first, which is not counted in the times. The most common mistake is adding too much liquid for the rice, which makes it mushy; measure the sauce left in the pot before you add the rice. Chef's tip: don't stir the rice once it is covered; the crisp layer that forms on the bottom, the xooñ, is the part everyone fights over.

95 min

Senegalese Rice & Grains

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Pheni (layered fried vermicelli nests in sweet milk)

In Lahore and Karachi during Ramadan, sweet shops stack golden nests of pheni in towers, and families buy them to eat at sehri, the meal before dawn. The fine, brittle strands are crumbled into a bowl and drenched with hot sweetened milk, which softens them in a minute into something like a silky vermicelli pudding; it keeps you full through the fasting day. Shop pheni is pulled into hair-thin threads by skilled hands, so at home this recipe uses the layered method: thin sheets of dough are brushed with a ghee and rice-flour paste, rolled and sliced, and the paste makes the layers fan out into fine flaky rings when fried. They are crisp, buttery and delicate. It is naturally egg-free: the dough is just flour, ghee and water, and the rice-flour paste keeps the layers separate. Chef's tip: fry the nests in oil that is only moderately hot, about 160°C; oil that is too hot is the common mistake that browns the outside while the inner layers stay soft and doughy.

90 min

Pakistani Indian Sweets

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KyopolouRoasted aubergine and pepper spread

Every Bulgarian family makes kyopolou in late summer and autumn, when aubergines and red peppers flood the markets from Plovdiv to Sofia, and it is served as a starter with bread and a shopska salad, or spread on toast for a light supper. The vegetables are roasted until blackened, peeled, and chopped by hand with garlic, parsley, vinegar and sunflower oil into a chunky, smoky, slightly sweet relish. A portion gives about 2 g of protein, so it is a dip; spread it on bread with white cheese or serve with beans for a fuller meal. The most common mistake is blending it smooth: kyopolou should be chopped, with visible pieces of pepper. Chef's tip: let the roasted vegetables steam in a covered bowl for 10 minutes; the skins then slip off in seconds and you keep all the smoky juice.

60 min

Bulgarian Chutneys & Dips

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Aloo bainganPotato and aubergine

From Multan to Hyderabad in Sindh, aloo baingan is the humble pairing that makes a summer glut of aubergines go a long way: potatoes give body, aubergine melts into a jammy, smoky-sweet tomato masala. It is eaten with chapati at dinner, often next to a bowl of daal and some sliced onion. The most common mistake is stirring hard once the aubergine softens, which mashes everything into a grey purée; fold it gently and let the pan do the work. Chef's tip: give the aubergine a few minutes on its own in the hot oil before the masala goes in, so its edges catch and brown.

30 min

Pakistani Vegetarian

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Shimla mirch alooPepper and potato stir-fry

Shimla mirch aloo is everyday Punjabi home cooking from both sides of the border, the sabzi that fills a lunchbox paratha or sits next to dal on a weeknight in Rawalpindi. Potato cubes go soft and golden first, then strips of green pepper are tossed in just long enough to soften while keeping a little bite, all held together by a dry tomato-chilli masala. The classic mistake is adding the peppers with the potatoes: they collapse, turn khaki and lose their fresh, slightly bitter flavour. Chef's tip: a pinch of amchur at the end lifts the whole pan without adding any extra liquid.

25 min

Pakistani Vegetarian

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TopfengolatschenSweet quark puff pastry squares

A Topfengolatsche is what Viennese office workers grab from the bakery on the way in, and what grandparents order with a Melange in a coffee house on a Sunday afternoon. The corners of a puff pastry square are folded over a lemony, vanilla-scented filling of Topfen (Austrian quark) with plump raisins, and the top gets a thin white glaze. It is flaky, light and not too sweet. Raisins are sometimes soaked in rum; warm water or orange juice works just as well, and the recipe below is alcohol-free. Wet quark is the classic problem, because it turns the filling runny and it leaks out in the oven. Chef's tip: hang the quark in a sieve lined with a clean cloth for an hour, or squeeze it, until it is as thick as soft cream cheese.

57 min

Austrian Baking

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