All recipes

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Dopiazeh alooPotatoes fried with onion and tomato

Dopiazeh means 'two onions', and in Shiraz this potato dish lives up to the name: cubed potatoes are fried with a generous heap of golden onions, turmeric and tomato paste until the edges catch and the sauce clings to every piece. Shirazi families eat it as a side with rice and kebab or, on busy evenings, as the main dish rolled up in flatbread with yogurt or fresh herbs. The usual mistake is crowding the pan, so the potatoes steam and break up instead of browning; use your widest pan. Chef's tip: fry the tomato paste in the oil for a full minute before adding water, so it turns brick red and loses its raw edge.

30 min

Persian Sides

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Kak-e KermanshahiThin buttered sugar sheets

Kermanshah, in Iran's Kurdish west, is famous for its ghee, and kak is the sweet that shows it off: dough rolled so thin you can read through it, baked crisp in seconds, then brushed with melted ghee and showered with sugar before the sheets are folded and stacked. Shops in the city's bazaar sell them in tall boxes, and families bring them out for guests and at Nowruz with glasses of black tea. They are traditionally made with Kermanshahi ghee, a nutty sheep's-milk ghee; ordinary ghee or clarified butter works well. The classic mistake is rolling too thickly: anything over a millimetre bakes up like a cracker, not a crisp, glassy sheet. Chef's tip: roll on a lightly oiled counter rather than flour, and stretch the last bit over the backs of your hands, as the Kermanshah bakers do; excess flour scorches on the hot tray.

120 min

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Nan-e badamiAlmond cardamom cookies

Tabriz and Yazd both claim the best nan-e badami, and in the weeks before Nowruz pastry shops across Iran fill trays with these small almond cookies for the new-year table. Made from ground almonds, sugar and egg white with no flour at all, they have a thin crisp shell and a moist, chewy middle, perfumed with cardamom and rose water and topped with a sliver of pistachio. Offer them with tea when guests make their Nowruz visits; they also keep well enough to make a week ahead. Over-whisking is the easy error: the whites only need to be frothy, not stiff, or the cookies puff and crack like meringues. Chef's tip: let the shaped cookies sit uncovered for 20 minutes before baking so a skin forms; that skin is what gives the neat, crackled top.

45 min

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Nan-e keshmeshiSaffron raisin cookies

Ask an Iranian child which Nowruz sweet they reach for first and many will say nan-e keshmeshi, the little raisin cookies with crisp golden rims and soft, chewy centres. Confectioners in Tehran make them by the thousand in the run-up to the spring new year, and they turn up again whenever there is tea and company. The dough is a simple butter-sugar-egg batter warmed with saffron and vanilla, spooned out in small dabs that spread thin in the oven. Spooning them too big or too close is the common slip: they run into each other and bake into one sheet. Chef's tip: soak the raisins in hot water for 10 minutes and dry them well first; plump raisins stay juicy instead of burning on the surface.

44 min

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Nan-o panir-o sabziBread, white cheese and fresh herbs

Nan-o panir-o sabzi, 'bread, cheese and herbs', is laid out on Iranian tablecloths from Tabriz to Mashhad for breakfast, for a light summer supper and before dawn during Ramadan: warm flatbread, salty white cheese, a big plate of fresh herbs, walnuts and crisp radishes, all wrapped into little bites. There is no cooking beyond warming the bread, so it is ready in ten minutes. The common mistake is serving herbs that are still damp from washing, which wilt and make the bread soggy; wash them earlier and let them dry fully. Iranian white cheese (lighvan) and most feta are made with animal rennet, so choose a vegetarian feta-style cheese if needed. Chef's tip: soak the walnuts in cold water for 10 minutes; it softens their bitterness the way Iranian cooks like.

12 min

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Omelet-e gojeh farangiTomato and egg omelette

In Iran the word omelet means something quite different from a folded French one: ripe tomatoes are cooked down in oil with a little onion and turmeric until jammy, then eggs are stirred through so they set in soft streaks of red and gold. It is the classic quick dinner of Tehran apartments and student dorms, eaten from the pan with lavash and a plate of herbs. The mistake that makes it watery is adding the eggs before the tomato juices have cooked away; wait until the sauce is thick and the oil sizzles again. Chef's tip: grate the tomatoes on a box grater and throw away the skins, so the base melts down in minutes.

20 min

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Nan-e khameiCream puffs

Tehran's pastry shops, the qanadi on every busy street, sell nan-e khamei by the boxful: small golden choux puffs split and filled with softly whipped cream, dusted with icing sugar. Families buy a box to take when visiting relatives, for birthdays and above all for the Nowruz new-year table, and they are eaten with glasses of black tea. The shells are crisp and hollow, the cream barely sweet and sometimes lifted with a drop of rose water, and a few chopped pistachios on top add colour. Filling them too early is the usual mistake, as the cream softens the shells within hours, so fill them shortly before serving. Chef's tip: whip the cream in a chilled bowl and stop at soft peaks with a little hold; it pipes smoothly and doesn't turn grainy.

80 min

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Fereni for babies (Persian rice-milk porridge)

Fereni is one of the oldest Persian sweets, and in Iranian homes it is also a baby's first spoon food: rice flour cooked slowly in milk until it is soft, pale and silky. Mothers often make it for breakfast or for a winter afternoon. For babies under one it is served plain; older children get the rosewater, a little sugar and a dusting of cinnamon that the family enjoys. It contains milk; there is no egg, gluten, nuts, soya, sesame or fish. Chef's tip: stir with a whisk for the first few minutes, then switch to a spatula so you can scrape the bottom of the pan.

22 min

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Persian kotlet (beef and potato patties)

Kotlet is the dish Iranian families make in big batches for school lunches, road trips and Friday picnics in the park: minced beef mixed with grated potato, onion, egg and turmeric, shaped into flat ovals and fried until deep brown and crisp at the edges. They are eaten tucked into lavash or a soft roll with tomato, cucumber pickles and herbs, warm at home and cold the next day. They contain egg and gluten (breadcrumbs). Chef's tip: squeeze the grated onion and potato hard in a cloth; that water is what makes kotlet fall apart in the pan.

50 min

Persian Meat

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Ash-e dandooni (Persian first-tooth soup)

When an Iranian baby's first tooth appears, the family cooks a big pot of ash-e dandooni and shares it with relatives and neighbours, who return the bowl with a small gift for the baby. It is a hearty, mild soup of whole wheat, chickpeas, beans and lentils, eaten by the whole family; in some homes the little one gets the soft, mashed grains without salt or toppings. It is free of milk, egg, nuts and soya and contains gluten (wheat). Chef's tip: soak the wheat and pulses together overnight, so everything cooks at the same speed.

120 min

Persian Soups

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Kuku-ye morghSaffron chicken egg cake

Tehran families take kuku-ye morgh to the mountains of Darband and Tochal on Friday outings, cut into wedges and stuffed into lavash with tomato and pickled cucumber. Poached chicken is shredded, mixed with golden onion, saffron and eggs, and cooked into a thick, moist cake that holds together for sandwiches. Serve it warm or cold with yogurt and herbs. The mistake is overcooking the chicken before it goes in, which leaves the kuku dry and stringy; poach it gently just to temperature. Contains egg. Chef's tip: add 2 tablespoons of the poaching broth to the eggs; it keeps the kuku juicy even the next day.

55 min

Persian Chicken

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Khoresh-e bamiehOkra and lamb stew

In Ahvaz, Abadan and the hot Gulf towns of Khuzestan, khoresh-e bamieh is everyday summer food, cooked when small okra fills the markets and eaten at lunch before the afternoon rest. Lamb simmers with onion, plenty of garlic, tomato and dried lime, and the okra is fried first so it keeps its shape in a sharp, garlicky red sauce; southern cooks often add a pinch of chilli. Serve it with chelow or plain rice and fresh herbs. The mistake that makes okra slimy is cutting it open or stirring it too much; leave the pods whole, trim only the stem tips, and shake the pot instead of stirring. Chef's tip: a squeeze of lemon added to the frying okra helps it stay crisp-skinned in the stew.

105 min

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Khoresh-e kangarCardoon and lamb stew

Kangar, a wild thistle, is gathered in the Alborz foothills above Tehran in April and May, and khoresh-e kangar is the stew people make with it in those few weeks; outside Iran, cardoons or artichoke stems stand in well. The peeled stems are fried, then simmered with lamb, mint, parsley and lemon until tender, giving a green, faintly bitter stew that tastes like artichoke. Serve it with chelow. The common mistake is skipping the peeling and the soak: the stringy outer skin stays tough and the cut stems blacken. Chef's tip: soak the cut stems in water with lemon juice for 30 minutes, which keeps them pale and pulls out much of the bitterness.

140 min

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Khoresh-e aloo esfenajLamb, spinach and plum stew

In Tehran and along the Caspian, khoresh-e aloo esfenaj is a cold-weather dish, made when winter spinach is sweet and dried golden plums (aloo zard) hang in the bazaar. Lamb, yellow split peas and a mountain of wilted spinach cook down into a dark green stew that is sour first, then sweet, with soft plums melting through it. Serve it with plenty of chelow. People often add the plums at the start, but they dissolve and the stew turns muddy; they go in for the last half hour. Chef's tip: fry the spinach in a dry pan until all its water is gone before it meets the sauce, so the stew stays rich rather than watery.

130 min

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Khoresh-e rivasRhubarb and lamb stew

Rhubarb grows wild on the slopes of the Alborz and around Tabriz, and when the first pink stalks arrive in April, Tehran grandmothers make khoresh-e rivas, a spring tonic that also turns up at Nowruz visits. Lamb cooks soft, then a big pile of fried mint and parsley turns the sauce deep green, and the rhubarb is added at the very end so it stays in tender, sour pieces. Serve it with chelow and something sweet afterwards. The most common mistake is stirring once the rhubarb is in; it falls apart in minutes, so lay it on top and only shake the pot. Chef's tip: if your rhubarb is very sour, a teaspoon of sugar rounds it out without making the stew sweet.

125 min

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Ash-e mashMung bean and herb soup

Ash-e mash is the soup Iranian mothers make when someone in the house has a cold, and in Tehran and the southern provinces it is sold from big pots on winter mornings. Mung beans and rice cook down with turmeric into a thick, earthy porridge, then a mountain of chopped herbs goes in and it is crowned with crisp fried onion and sizzling mint oil. Serve it in deep bowls with bread and lemon wedges. People often rush the beans, and the soup ends up thin with hard beans floating in it; they need to burst before the herbs go in. Chef's tip: stir from the bottom every few minutes once the rice is in, because ash catches quickly as it thickens.

95 min

Persian Soups

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Khoresh-e porteghalOrange chicken stew

Mazandaran on the Caspian grows Iran's oranges, and in winter, when bitter Seville oranges and sweet navels are everywhere, families there cook khoresh-e porteghal for guests; it has also become a Tehran wedding-season favourite. Chicken braises in saffron and orange juice with ribbons of candied peel, carrot batons and slivered almonds, giving a jewel-bright stew that is fragrant, sweet and tangy. Serve it with chelow. The usual mistake is leaving the white pith on the peel, which makes the whole pot bitter; slice it off thinly and blanch the strips twice. The dish contains almonds. Chef's tip: a squeeze of Seville orange or lime at the end stops it tasting like marmalade.

90 min

Persian Chicken

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Khoresh-e lubia sabzGreen bean and beef stew

Green bean khoresh is the stew Iranian children ask for, cooked in homes from Mashhad to Shiraz through the summer when beans are cheap; Tehran cooks often add a pinch of cinnamon that makes the tomato sauce taste rounder. Beef or lamb simmers until soft, the beans are fried briefly and then cooked in the sauce until tender but still green. Serve it with chelow and a spoon of tahdig on the side. The mistake to avoid is cutting the beans too fine, which turns the stew into mush; 3 cm pieces keep their bite. Chef's tip: fry the beans in a little oil for 5 minutes before they go into the pot, so they keep their colour and taste nutty.

100 min

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Ash-e haft danehSeven-grain soup

Ash-e haft daneh, the soup of seven seeds, is cooked as nazri, a votive offering, on Tasua and Ashura in Muharram, when families in Tehran, Kashan and Yazd stir huge cauldrons in the street and share bowls with neighbours and passers-by. Wheat, barley, rice, chickpeas, beans, lentils and mung beans cook slowly into a thick, nutty soup with herbs, topped with fried onion and mint. Serve it in bowls with bread. The mistake is adding all the grains together; they cook at different speeds, so the hard ones go in first. Chef's tip: soak everything except the rice and lentils overnight, each in its own bowl, and you'll cut the cooking time by an hour.

170 min

Persian Soups

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Kuku bademjanAubergine and walnut egg cake

Kuku bademjan is the picnic kuku of Iran, packed into lavash for Sizdah Bedar, the thirteenth day of Nowruz, when families eat outdoors in parks from Tehran to Shiraz. Charred, smoky aubergine is mashed with garlic, saffron and chopped walnuts, bound with eggs and cooked into a thick, soft-set cake that tastes deep and slightly sweet. Serve it warm or cold with yogurt, bread and herbs. The mistake people make is leaving the aubergine wet; squeeze the cooked flesh in a sieve or the kuku will never set firm. Contains egg and walnuts. Chef's tip: cook the finished mixture in a well-oiled pan with the lid on, then slide it onto a plate and flip it back for the second side, so it browns evenly without drying out.

50 min

Persian Vegetarian

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Havij poloCarrot rice with chicken

Havij polo is a party rice in Tehran and Isfahan, its orange carrot ribbons and saffron grains making a bright centrepiece at birthday lunches and family gatherings. Carrot batons are fried with a little sugar and cinnamon, layered with parboiled basmati and pieces of braised saffron chicken, and steamed until the rice is fluffy with a golden crust below. Serve it with salad shirazi and yogurt. The common mistake is too much sugar, which makes it taste like dessert; it should be only gently sweet against the savoury chicken. Chef's tip: braise the chicken first and use its reduced juices to moisten the layers, so the rice tastes of it all the way through.

105 min

Persian Rice & Grains

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Kuku kadooCourgette herb egg cake

Kuku kadoo is what summer lunch looks like in homes across Iran when the garden produces more courgettes than anyone can eat; Tehran mothers slice it into school sandwiches with tomato and pickles. Grated courgette and onion are squeezed dry, fried briefly, then mixed with eggs, dill and dried mint for a light, green-flecked kuku that is soft and fluffy inside. Eat it hot or cold with bread, yogurt and herbs. The usual mistake is skipping the squeeze; courgette is mostly water and the kuku turns soggy and pale. Contains egg. Chef's tip: a teaspoon of baking powder and a spoon of flour, as many Iranian cooks add, make it rise and hold together better; leave out the flour to keep it gluten free.

45 min

Persian Vegetarian

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Khoresh-e kadooCourgette and lamb stew

Kitchens across Iran make khoresh-e kadoo in early summer, when small, firm courgettes pile up in the markets and the Tehran heat calls for a lighter stew than gheymeh. Lamb is simmered with onion, turmeric and dried lime until soft, then fried courgette halves are laid on top to finish in the tangy tomato and saffron sauce. Eat it with chelow and a bowl of mast-o-khiar. The common mistake is adding the courgettes too early: they collapse into mush, so they go in only for the last 20 minutes. Chef's tip: salt the cut courgettes and let them sit for 15 minutes, then pat them dry, so they fry golden instead of soaking up oil.

120 min