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702 recipes

Nasu no miso itameMiso-glazed aubergine

Nasu no miso itame is a summer weeknight favourite across Japan, when aubergines are cheap and glossy: chunks are fried until creamy, then glazed in a sticky sauce of miso, soy, sugar and mirin and spooned over hot rice. Mirin contains a little alcohol, which mostly cooks off as the sauce bubbles; for an alcohol-free version use 1 tbsp water with an extra ½ tsp sugar. The common mistake is adding all the oil at once: aubergine drinks it, so start with a little, cover briefly to steam the pieces soft, then finish with more. Chef's tip: mix the sauce before you start, because miso burns within seconds once it hits the hot pan.

15 min

Japanese Vegetarian

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Shirasu donRice bowl with whitebait

Shirasu don comes from the Shonan coast around Enoshima and Kamakura, where the fishing boats bring in tiny whitebait from spring to autumn and cafés serve them boiled and piled over rice for lunch. At home it makes a five-minute supper: the little fish are soft, salty and sweet like the sea, lifted by spring onion, ginger and fresh shiso. Buy kamaage or kama-age shirasu, the ready-boiled kind sold chilled in Japanese shops; keep it in the fridge and use it by the date on the pack. Don't use raw (nama) shirasu at home. The common mistake is pouring soy all over; the fish are already salted, so a few drops are enough. Chef's tip: lay the shirasu on the rice in a loose heap rather than pressing it flat, so it stays fluffy and moist.

5 min

Japanese Fish

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Kake sobaBuckwheat noodles in hot broth

Kake soba is the bare, honest bowl served at the stand-up noodle counters inside Tokyo railway stations, slurped in a few minutes by commuters on the way home and made at home on cold nights when nobody wants to cook. Grey-brown buckwheat noodles sit in a dark, savoury broth of bonito dashi, soy sauce and mirin, with a heap of sliced spring onion on top. The broth uses mirin, a sweet rice wine; it simmers briefly so most of the alcohol cooks off, and for an alcohol-free bowl use 2 tsp sugar instead. The usual mistake is skipping the cold rinse: unrinsed soba is coated in starch, turns gummy and clouds the broth. Chef's tip: pour a ladle of the hot noodle water into each bowl while the soba cooks, then tip it out, so the warm bowls keep the broth steaming to the last mouthful.

13 min

Japanese Pasta & Noodles

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Platte kaas met radijsjesQuark and radish on brown bread

In Flanders the evening meal is often a boterham, a plate of open bread slices, and one of the most loved toppings in Ghent and Antwerp is platte kaas: fresh, soft quark seasoned with chives, salt and pepper, spread thickly on brown bread and covered with crunchy radish slices. It is cool, light and ready in five minutes, a good supper after a big lunch. Some quark and fresh cheeses are set with a little animal rennet, so check the label for a vegetarian one. The common mistake is using thin, low-fat quark straight from the tub, which is watery and slides off the bread; stir it well and drain off any liquid first. Chef's tip: slice the radishes paper-thin and salt them only at the moment you serve, so they stay crisp.

5 min

Belgian Snacks & Starters

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ChacareroSteak sandwich with green beans

The chacarero is a Santiago fuente de soda classic, ordered after work or for a fast Sunday dinner: thin seared beef in a soft round bun with sliced tomato, tender green beans, a little green chilli and a smear of mayonnaise. The beans are what make it Chilean. The common mistake is boiling the green beans until grey and soft; they should still have a little snap. Chef's tip: cut the beans on a long diagonal before boiling, so they cook in three minutes and sit flat in the bun.

15 min

Chilean Meat

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Neko manmaRice with bonito flakes and soy

Neko manma means 'cat's rice', a joking name for the bowl that people all over Japan make late at night or on the evening the fridge is empty: steaming rice, a handful of dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and a little soy sauce, stirred together. The flakes wilt and curl in the heat and give the rice a smoky, savoury flavour; some homes splash over the last of the miso soup instead. The mistake is drowning it in soy, which turns the flakes soggy and the rice salty; a teaspoon is plenty. Chef's tip: crumble the bonito between your fingers over the rice so the finer flakes melt into every grain.

5 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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TenshinhanCrab omelette on rice

Tenshinhan, sometimes called tenshindon, is a Japanese invention served in the small Chinese-style chuka restaurants of Tokyo and Osaka, ordered at lunch and for a cheap, filling dinner. A fluffy omelette studded with crab and spring onion is slid over a mound of rice, then the whole plate is coated in a shiny amber sauce that is both sweet and a little sharp. It works well with tinned crab or crab sticks (which are made from fish and often contain wheat). The common mistake is tipping the cornflour slurry into the sauce without stirring, which makes lumps; pour it in a thin stream while stirring constantly. Chef's tip: add the vinegar only after the sauce has thickened, so its brightness isn't boiled away.

15 min

Japanese Rice & Grains

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Somen chanpuruStir-fried noodles with tuna

In Okinawa, somen chanpuru (also called somen tashiya) is what a grandmother throws together when the family turns up hungry: thin somen noodles boiled for a minute, then tossed in a hot pan with tinned tuna, spring onion and a little dashi. It's a lunch or easy dinner, salty, slippery and comforting. Many Okinawan cooks use tinned pork luncheon meat instead of tuna, so check which you're being served if you avoid pork; this version uses tuna. The common mistake is not rinsing and draining the somen well, which leaves the noodles clumped into one sticky lump in the pan. Chef's tip: toss the drained noodles with a teaspoon of oil before they meet the pan, and they'll stay separate.

10 min

Japanese Pasta & Noodles

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Hath maaluwaSeven vegetable coconut curry

Hath maaluwa, literally 'seven curries', is cooked in Sinhala homes for the Avurudu New Year in April and for dana, the meal offered to monks when a family gives alms. Unlike the sept cari of Mauritius or Trinidad's seven curry, which are seven separate dishes, this is one pot: pumpkin, long beans, aubergine, ash plantain, sweet potato and two pulses simmered together in turmeric-yellow coconut milk with curry leaves, pandan and cinnamon. It is mild, creamy and gently spiced, and it stretches to feed a crowd with rice. The common mistake is adding everything at once, so the pumpkin dissolves while the beans stay hard; the vegetables go in by how long they take. It is ready when a knife slides through the sweet potato and the gravy coats the vegetables. Chef's tip: fry the aubergine first; it stops it soaking up the gravy and falling apart.

60 min

Sri Lankan Curries

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AggalaRice flour and coconut balls

When the astrologers' auspicious hour for Aluth Avurudu, the Sinhala and Tamil New Year, arrives in April, Sri Lankan families light the hearth, boil kiribath and lay out a table of sweets, and small dark aggala balls are one of the easiest to make. Roasted rice flour and toasted coconut are bound with hot kithul treacle and a surprising amount of black pepper, which gives a warm bite after the sweetness. They are dense, soft and slightly crumbly. The common mistake is under-roasting the flour, which leaves a raw, pasty taste; roast it until it smells like biscuits and flows loosely off the spoon. The treacle is ready when it bubbles all over and thickens slightly. Chef's tip: shape them while the mixture is still warm, with lightly oiled palms, because they harden and crack as they cool.

35 min

Sri Lankan Desserts

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KourdassGrilled lamb liver bundles

After the sacrifice of Eid al-Adha, Moroccan families use every part of the lamb, and kourdass is one of the dishes made in the days that follow: pieces of tripe and liver rubbed with cumin and paprika, wrapped in caul fat and traditionally hung up to air-dry before grilling. This home version skips the drying, which is hard to do safely in a modern kitchen, and grills the bundles fresh over charcoal or under a grill until the fat crisps and the liver is cooked through. Buy cleaned, pre-cooked tripe and caul fat from a halal butcher. Chef's tip: wrap the bundles tightly so the caul fat bastes them as it melts.

90 min

Moroccan Meat

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Boudin blanc aux pommesWhite sausage with apple compote

In Liège and across Wallonia, Christmas Eve supper often begins with boudin blanc: pale, delicate sausages of finely minced pork and milk, sometimes with a little chicken, gently fried in butter until golden and served with warm, chunky apple compote and bread. Butchers make piles of them in December. Buy them fresh from a good butcher, or poached and ready to fry. Chef's tip: prick nothing and cook gently; boudin blanc is fragile, and a hot pan splits the skins.

30 min

Belgian Meat

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Empanadas de mariscosShellfish empanadas

On Good Friday along the Chilean coast, from La Serena to Chiloé, meat is off the table and empanadas de mariscos take the place of the usual beef pino. The filling is a mix of shellfish, such as mussels, clams, prawns and crab, cooked with onion, garlic, a little chilli and paprika, bound with a spoon of cream and cheese, and baked or fried in a crisp pastry. Use cooked or frozen seafood mix if you like. Chef's tip: drain the cooked shellfish well and reduce its juices separately, as excess liquid makes the pastry soggy.

85 min

Chilean Fish

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TihaneStuffed lamb spleen

Tihane, or tehal, is an old Eid al-Adha speciality from Moroccan towns such as Fez and Marrakech, made on the days after the sacrifice when the offal is shared out. The lamb's spleen is cut open into a pocket and stuffed with chopped liver and heart, a little fat, green olives, preserved lemon, garlic and cumin, then sewn shut, poached and roasted until browned. It is sliced thin and eaten warm or cold with bread. Ask a halal butcher for the spleen and offal. Chef's tip: prick the spleen with a fine needle before poaching so it doesn't burst in the pot.

130 min

Moroccan Meat

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Ebi no umani (simmered prawns)

Bright red prawns curled like a bent back sit in every Shōgatsu osechi box in Japan as a wish to live until your back is bent with age, and their red is the colour of celebration. Simmered briefly in dashi, soy and sugar, they stay plump and juicy, and cooling in the liquid gives them a sweet-savoury flavour right through to the shell. The liquid includes sake and mirin, both rice wines; for no alcohol, replace the sake with extra dashi and the mirin with 3 tbsp water plus 1 tbsp sugar. Use frozen head-on prawns, thawed in the fridge. Serve cold or at room temperature in the osechi box, or warm with rice. Chef's tip: lift the prawns out as soon as they turn pink, reduce the liquid, then return them; this keeps them tender.

20 min

Japanese Fish

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Nanohana karashi-ae (rapeseed blossoms with mustard)

Nanohana, the budding shoots of the rapeseed plant, arrive in Japanese shops at the end of winter, and their little yellow-green flower heads are a sign that spring has come. That makes them a natural side dish for Hinamatsuri on 3 March, next to chirashizushi and clam soup. The greens are blanched just until tender, then dressed with Japanese karashi mustard loosened with soy sauce and kombu dashi: pleasantly bitter, nose-tinglingly hot and very fresh. Outside Japan, tenderstem broccoli or cime di rapa works almost as well. Chef's tip: dress the greens at the last minute, because the soy starts to dull the green colour within half an hour.

15 min

Japanese Sides

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Kubu irichi (Okinawan kombu stir-fry)

In Okinawa, kubu irichi is cooked for Obon (here called Shōmō or Ukui), when families welcome the spirits of their ancestors home with offerings, and it reappears at every big family gathering. Kombu, 'kubu' in the island dialect, sounds like 'yorokobu', to rejoice, and Okinawa has loved it for centuries thanks to the old kelp trade from Hokkaido. Strips of pork belly are stir-fried until their fat runs, then the kelp, konnyaku and carrot simmer in pork-scented stock until the liquid is absorbed, giving a soft, savoury, gently sweet tangle full of the sea. Serve with rice, as part of an Obon spread or a bentō. Chef's tip: keep some of the kombu soaking water; it is the stock that gives the dish its depth.

45 min

Japanese Meat

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Kazunoko (marinated herring roe)

Kazunoko, golden sacs of herring roe, is a jewel of the Shōgatsu osechi box all over Japan: its thousands of tiny eggs ask for many children and a family that keeps growing, and its name hints at 'number of children'. Its charm is texture: each bite pops and crunches, with a clean, mild sea taste carried by a dashi and soy marinade. The marinade includes mirin, a sweet rice wine, which is briefly boiled; for no alcohol, use 1 tbsp water plus 1 tsp sugar. Serve cold in small pieces, topped with katsuobushi flakes, with other osechi dishes or rice. The roe is salt-cured and not cooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Chef's tip: desalt in lightly salted water, not plain water; it draws the salt out evenly without making the roe bitter.

30 min

Japanese Fish

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Matsumae-zuke (squid and kelp pickle)

Matsumae-zuke is Hokkaido's gift to the New Year table, named after the old Matsumae domain whose ports traded in dried squid and kombu; families make a big jar at the end of December to eat through Shōgatsu, with kombu ('yorokobu', joy) and herring roe for many children. As it sits, the kelp releases its natural stickiness, so the chewy squid and crisp carrot are bound in a glossy, savoury-sweet, deeply umami dressing. The marinade uses sake and mirin, both rice wines, boiled to drive off most of the alcohol; for none at all, use water instead of the sake and 3 tbsp water plus 1 tbsp sugar instead of the mirin. Serve a spoonful over hot rice or as a nibble with drinks. Chef's tip: cut the squid and kombu with dry kitchen scissors; wet ones stick and tear.

30 min

Japanese Fish

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