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341 recipes

GarbaCassava couscous with fried tuna

Garba is the cheap, filling lunch and evening meal of Abidjan's street stalls, the garbadromes, where students and taxi drivers queue for a heap of steamed attiéké (fermented cassava couscous) with chunks of fried tuna, raw onion, tomato and a fierce dose of chilli, all eaten with the fingers. Using ready frozen or packaged attiéké makes it a 15-minute dinner at home. The common mistake is frying the tuna in small batches in barely any oil, so it steams grey instead of browning. Chef's tip: pour a spoon of the hot frying oil over the attiéké before serving, as the garba sellers do; it is what makes it taste right.

15 min

Ivorian Fish

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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KourdassGrilled lamb liver bundles

After the sacrifice of Eid al-Adha, Moroccan families use every part of the lamb, and kourdass is one of the dishes made in the days that follow: pieces of tripe and liver rubbed with cumin and paprika, wrapped in caul fat and traditionally hung up to air-dry before grilling. This home version skips the drying, which is hard to do safely in a modern kitchen, and grills the bundles fresh over charcoal or under a grill until the fat crisps and the liver is cooked through. Buy cleaned, pre-cooked tripe and caul fat from a halal butcher. Chef's tip: wrap the bundles tightly so the caul fat bastes them as it melts.

90 min

Moroccan Meat

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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FastenwäheCaraway pretzel bread

Basel bakeries sell Fastenwähe only from the start of the new year until Easter, and through Fasnacht people buy them warm by the bagful. The flat, chewy yeast bread is shaped like a squashed pretzel with four slits, glazed with egg and scattered with caraway seeds, and is eaten plain or with cheese and Mehlsuppe. The common mistake is cutting the slits too short, so they close up as the dough rises. Chef's tip: a little lard or butter in the dough gives the soft bite of the bakery ones.

50 min

Swiss Breads & Parathas

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Chirov plavRice pilaf with dried fruit

Chirov plav, rice pilaf with dried fruit ('chir'), is the Armenian Easter dish: after the long Lenten fast, families gather on Easter Sunday to eat this glossy, buttery pilaf, often served beside fried or baked fish and red-dyed eggs. The rice is cooked separately so every grain stays loose, then layered with dried apricots, raisins and prunes warmed in butter, with a golden crust (tahdig-style) at the bottom. Chef's tip: rinse the rice until the water runs clear, and parboil it in plenty of salted water, as that keeps the grains separate.

65 min

Armenian Rice & Grains

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MässmoggeHazelnut-filled striped sweets

Every autumn the Basler Herbstmesse, Switzerland's oldest fair, fills the old town with rides and stalls, and the smell of boiling sugar from the stands selling Mässmogge, glossy striped sweets in bright colours with a soft chocolate-hazelnut centre. They are made by pulling hot sugar until it turns satiny, wrapping it round a rope of filling and snipping it into little pillows. It takes practice and a sugar thermometer, and adults should do all the hot work; children can help once the sweets are cool. Chef's tip: work on an oiled silicone mat near a low oven, so the sugar stays pliable for longer.

75 min

Swiss Desserts

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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TihaneStuffed lamb spleen

Tihane, or tehal, is an old Eid al-Adha speciality from Moroccan towns such as Fez and Marrakech, made on the days after the sacrifice when the offal is shared out. The lamb's spleen is cut open into a pocket and stuffed with chopped liver and heart, a little fat, green olives, preserved lemon, garlic and cumin, then sewn shut, poached and roasted until browned. It is sliced thin and eaten warm or cold with bread. Ask a halal butcher for the spleen and offal. Chef's tip: prick the spleen with a fine needle before poaching so it doesn't burst in the pot.

130 min

Moroccan Meat

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KäsewäheCheese tart

At four in the morning on Basel's Morgestraich, when the lanterns go out and Fasnacht begins, the restaurants fill with drummers and pipers eating Mehlsuppe and slices of hot Käsewähe. The tart is a thin buttery pastry base filled with grated Gruyère or Emmentaler set in a nutmeg-scented custard of egg and milk, baked until puffed and golden. Traditional Swiss hard cheeses are made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian Alpine-style hard cheese if you need to. The common mistake is a soggy base, so bake the pastry blind first. Chef's tip: toss the grated cheese with a spoon of flour, which stops it sinking into a rubbery layer.

70 min

Swiss Baking

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ZigerkrapfenSweet cheese and nut pastries

In the Glarus valleys, Fasnacht means Zigerkrapfen: half-moon pastry pockets filled with sweetened Ziger, a soft fresh whey cheese, mixed with ground hazelnuts, raisins, cinnamon and pear, then fried or baked. Ziger itself is set with acid rather than rennet, but if you use ricotta check the label, and choose one marked vegetarian if needed. The common mistake is a wet filling, which bursts the seams; drain the cheese well. Chef's tip: brush the edges with egg white before folding and press with a fork, so they stay sealed in the hot oil.

65 min

Swiss Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Schinkli im BrotteigHam baked in bread crust

Schinkli im Brotteig, a small smoked pork ham baked inside a bread crust, is a much-loved Christmas Eve dish in German-speaking Switzerland because it can be prepared ahead and goes into the oven while the family opens presents. The dough seals in the ham's juices and soaks them up as it bakes, and the ham is sliced with the crust and served with potato salad, mustard and pickles. Buy a ready-cooked smoked ham (Schüfeli or Schinkli) of about 1 kg. Chef's tip: dry the ham well before wrapping it, or the dough turns soggy inside.

120 min

Swiss Meat

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OsterfladenSemolina and almond Easter tart

Osterfladen is the Easter tart of Basel and northern Switzerland, baked on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter Sunday. A shortcrust case holds a creamy filling of semolina (or rice) cooked in milk, folded with ground almonds, raisins, lemon zest and whipped egg white, which bakes into a light, sliceable custard under a dusting of icing sugar. Some bakers soak the raisins in kirsch; here they are soaked in warm water, so it is alcohol-free. Chef's tip: fold the egg whites in gently and last, as they are what makes the filling light.

90 min

Swiss Baking

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Fasnachts-SchenkeliFried lemon dough fingers

Schenkeli ('little thighs') are fried for Fasnacht, the Carnival weeks that lead up to Lent in Switzerland, when bakeries in Basel, Lucerne and Zurich sell them by the bagful beside Fasnachtschüechli. The dough is rich with butter, eggs and lemon zest, rolled into finger-length logs and fried until they have a crisp, cracked golden shell and a soft, cakey middle. Some recipes add a splash of kirsch to the dough; this one doesn't. Chef's tip: fry them at a moderate temperature, as they need time to cook through and the signature cracks form only if they aren't browned too fast.

60 min

Swiss Baking

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Tmar mehchi (Moroccan almond-stuffed dates)

Tmar mehchi is the stuffed date of Fez and Marrakech, piled high on silver trays at weddings, engagements and Eid, and offered to guests with mint tea. Soft dates are filled with a homemade almond paste perfumed with orange-blossom water, often tinted pale green or pink to match the celebration, then scored with a knife so the filling shows. They are soft, rich and caramel-sweet, with a floral, nutty middle. The paste here is mixed from ground almonds and icing sugar, so there is no shop marzipan, which can contain egg white. It is naturally egg-free: the dates' sticky flesh and a few spoonfuls of orange-blossom water bind the almond filling. Chef's tip: add the orange-blossom water a little at a time and stop when the paste is firm like play dough. The common mistake is a wet paste, which oozes out and makes the dates slippery.

30 min

Moroccan Desserts

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SchlorzifladenDried pear tart

Schlorzifladen comes from the Toggenburg valley in the canton of St Gallen in eastern Switzerland, where dried pears (schlorzi) were a winter staple. The thin, crisp tart is filled with a thick, dark purée of cooked dried pears spiced with cinnamon, and baked for Christmas and village feast days. Some versions have a rice or cream layer on top; this is the simple pear one. Pear brandy is sometimes added, but this version uses lemon juice instead and is alcohol-free. Chef's tip: cook the pear purée until it is stiff enough to hold a spoon upright, or it soaks the pastry.

120 min

Swiss Baking

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Pasuts tolmaBean and bulgur cabbage rolls

Across Armenia, from Yerevan kitchens to village homes in Shirak, pasuts tolma is the dish of the long Lenten fast before Easter, and many families also make it for the first days of the new year: cabbage leaves wrapped around a thick filling of red beans, lentils, chickpeas and bulgur, simmered in a tangy tomato broth. The rolls come out soft and savoury, with a gentle sourness, and are just as good cold the next day with a spoonful of garlic yoghurt for those who eat dairy (leave it out to keep the dish vegan). A portion of about six rolls gives roughly 22 g of protein, all from the beans, lentils, chickpeas and wheat. The beans and chickpeas must soak for 12 hours first; that time is not counted below. The most common mistake is rolling the parcels loosely: they open in the pot and the filling drifts into the broth. Chef's tip: cook the legumes until just tender, not soft, because they keep cooking inside the leaves for another hour.

155 min

Armenian Vegetarian

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Moroccan bachkoutouOrange and sesame dunking biscuits

Moroccan grandmothers bake bachkoutou by the trayful and keep them in big tins for the afternoon glass of sweet mint tea, and neighbourhood ovens in Fes and Casablanca bake them for families who bring their dough. These are dry, crunchy little biscuits, not rich at all, made with eggs, sugar and oil rather than butter, with orange zest and a coating of toasted sesame; they are meant to be dunked until they soften slightly. Shapes vary from town to town: fingers, rings and rope twists are all common, and some cooks add aniseed. Too much flour is the easy mistake: the dough should stay soft and slightly sticky, or the biscuits bake heavy and hard rather than crisp and light. Chef's tip: once they are cold, put them back in a warm, switched-off oven for 20 minutes; that extra drying is what makes them keep their snap for weeks.

38 min

Moroccan Baking

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TopfengolatschenSweet quark puff pastry squares

A Topfengolatsche is what Viennese office workers grab from the bakery on the way in, and what grandparents order with a Melange in a coffee house on a Sunday afternoon. The corners of a puff pastry square are folded over a lemony, vanilla-scented filling of Topfen (Austrian quark) with plump raisins, and the top gets a thin white glaze. It is flaky, light and not too sweet. Raisins are sometimes soaked in rum; warm water or orange juice works just as well, and the recipe below is alcohol-free. Wet quark is the classic problem, because it turns the filling runny and it leaks out in the oven. Chef's tip: hang the quark in a sieve lined with a clean cloth for an hour, or squeeze it, until it is as thick as soft cream cheese.

57 min

Austrian Baking

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Kärntner ReindlingCinnamon raisin yeast cake

Carinthia's Easter loaf takes its name from the Reindl, the round, deep pan it is baked in, and in southern Austria no Easter basket goes to church without one. Inside the golden yeast crust is a spiral of butter, cinnamon sugar and plump raisins, so every slice shows a dark swirl. Locals eat it two ways: sweet with coffee on Easter morning, or alongside the savoury Easter platter with horseradish. Many bakers soak the raisins in rum overnight; warm water or tea works just as well and keeps it alcohol-free. A dry, crumbly Reindling usually means too much flour went in during kneading, so keep the dough soft and only lightly floured. Chef's tip: butter the pan well and dust it with sugar, which caramelises into a thin crunchy shell.

180 min

Austrian Baking

by KrazyBadal 0 views

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