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484 recipes

Newfoundland cod au gratin

Cod au gratin is a Newfoundland and Labrador staple, made in St. John's kitchens and outport homes for Sunday dinner, church suppers and Christmas time, when cod has been the island's lifeline for centuries. Pieces of fresh cod are layered in a buttery dish, covered in a creamy white sauce and blanketed with sharp cheddar and buttery breadcrumbs, then baked until bubbling and golden. The usual mistake is pre-cooking the cod: it overcooks into dry crumbs in the oven. Lay it in raw; it is done when it is opaque all the way through and flakes easily under a fork. Serve with mashed potatoes, peas or a green salad. Chef's tip: warm the milk before whisking it into the roux; the sauce comes together smooth in seconds, with no lumps.

50 min

Canadian Fish

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Montreal smoked meat sandwich

Montreal smoked meat is the city's most famous deli food, served since the early 1900s at Jewish delicatessens along boulevard Saint-Laurent, and ordered for lunch or late at night 'medium' fat, piled on rye with yellow mustard, a sour pickle, fries and a cherry cola. Beef brisket is cured in the fridge with salt, curing salt and spices for a week, then smoked or slow-roasted and finally steamed until tender. There is no pork. Curing at home needs care: use exactly 2.5% salt and 0.25% curing salt No. 1 (6.25% sodium nitrite) by weight of meat, keep it in the fridge at 0–4 °C the whole time, and never guess the amounts. The pink colour comes from the cure, not undercooking; the brisket must reach at least 71 °C and is tender at about 93 °C. The common mistake is slicing with the grain, which makes it stringy: always cut across the grain, thinly, while hot. Chef's tip: steam the cooked brisket for an hour just before serving; that final steam is what makes it melt like real deli meat.

450 min

Canadian Meat

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Thunder Bay Persian rollsPink-iced cinnamon buns

Persians are the pride of Thunder Bay, Ontario, sold in local bakeries and eaten with coffee at breakfast or on a cold afternoon by the shore of Lake Superior; they are almost unknown outside the city. Despite the name, they have nothing to do with Iran: a soft, enriched cinnamon-swirled dough is shaped into oval buns, fried or baked until golden, then spread with a thick pink icing coloured with raspberries or strawberries. They are vegetarian and contain egg, milk and wheat. The common mistake is icing them warm: the glaze melts into a sticky film instead of setting thick and fudgy. Wait until they are completely cool. They are ready when golden all over and they sound hollow when tapped underneath. Chef's tip: use mashed fresh or thawed frozen raspberries for the icing rather than colouring; it gives the true pale-pink shade and a sharp, fruity tang against the sweetness.

70 min

Canadian Baking

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Hawaiian pizza

Hawaiian pizza is not from Hawaii at all: it was invented in 1962 at a restaurant in Chatham, Ontario, by a Greek-Canadian cook who tried tinned pineapple on a pizza, and it is still one of Canada's most ordered pizzas for Friday nights and parties. It contains pork: cooked ham with sweet, juicy pineapple chunks over tomato sauce and mozzarella on a chewy homemade crust. The common mistake is piling on wet pineapple straight from the tin: the juice floods the base and it bakes soggy. Drain the pineapple and pat it dry, and use a very hot oven. The pizza is ready when the crust is browned and crisp underneath and the cheese is bubbling with golden patches. Chef's tip: roast the drained pineapple pieces for 10 minutes before topping; they caramelise at the edges and stop releasing juice into the pizza.

40 min

Canadian Pizza

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Shirini danmarkiCinnamon cardamom pastry swirls

In Tehran, nobody arrives empty-handed on a Nowruz visit: the custom is a cardboard box of shirini from the neighbourhood bakery, and soft, glazed shirini danmarki swirls are always tucked in among the cookies. This home version uses an enriched yeast dough rolled thin, spread with cinnamon-cardamom butter, rolled up and sliced into spirals that bake tender and flaky-edged. Serve them with tea in small glasses while the haft-sin table is laid. The common mistake is rushing the rise in a hot spot, which makes the buns dense and yeasty; a warm kitchen and patience give the lightest crumb. Chef's tip: chill the filled roll for 15 minutes before slicing, so the spirals stay round instead of squashing flat.

70 min

Persian Baking

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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CipailleLayered meat and potato pie

Cipaille (also cipâte or six-pâtes) is a deep, layered Quebec pie baked for the Christmas and New Year holidays, especially in the Gaspé and Lac-Saint-Jean regions. Layers of cubed meats, here pork, beef and chicken (some families add game), alternate with potato, onion and sheets of pastry in a deep pot, covered with stock and baked slowly for hours until the meat is meltingly tender. It feeds a crowd at the réveillon. Chef's tip: marinate the meats overnight with onion and savory; it seasons them through.

360 min

Canadian Meat

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Persian halvaSaffron rose flour halva

Iranian halva is not the sesame sweet of the Levant but a dense paste of flour toasted slowly in butter and cooked with a saffron and rose-water syrup. It is spread on plates and patterned with a spoon for Ramadan iftars, for mourning gatherings and as nazri, food made and shared with neighbours to fulfil a vow in Muharram. It tastes deeply nutty, floral and not too sweet. Chef's tip: patience with the flour is everything; toast it until it is the colour of peanut butter, never rushing on a high heat.

40 min

Persian Desserts

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Shir berenjRose water rice pudding

Shir berenj, 'milk rice', is one of the gentle sweets of the Iranian Nowruz season, made at home to share with visiting relatives and often given as nazri on special days. Short-grain rice is softened in water first, then cooked slowly in milk until the grains melt into a thick, creamy pudding scented with rose water. It is chilled and served plain, with the sweetness added at the table from a drizzle of grape molasses, date syrup or jam. The common mistake is adding all the milk at once over a high heat, which scorches the bottom and leaves the grains firm. Chef's tip: stir with a wooden spoon in a figure of eight, which reaches the corners where rice likes to stick.

70 min

Persian Desserts

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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Wild rice stuffing

Canadian Thanksgiving falls on the second Monday of October, earlier than the American one, when the harvest is in, and in Ontario, Manitoba and the prairies wild rice often takes the place of bread in the stuffing. Wild rice is the seed of a native lake grass long harvested by First Nations, and it is nutty and chewy; here it is baked with buttery mushrooms, celery, onion, sage and tart dried cranberries, topped with toasted pecans. It is cooked in its own dish, never inside the bird, so it stays safe and vegetarian. Chef's tip: cook the wild rice until a few grains split open to show the white inside; underdone grains stay hard after baking.

100 min

Canadian Sides

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KourdassGrilled lamb liver bundles

After the sacrifice of Eid al-Adha, Moroccan families use every part of the lamb, and kourdass is one of the dishes made in the days that follow: pieces of tripe and liver rubbed with cumin and paprika, wrapped in caul fat and traditionally hung up to air-dry before grilling. This home version skips the drying, which is hard to do safely in a modern kitchen, and grills the bundles fresh over charcoal or under a grill until the fat crisps and the liver is cooked through. Buy cleaned, pre-cooked tripe and caul fat from a halal butcher. Chef's tip: wrap the bundles tightly so the caul fat bastes them as it melts.

90 min

Moroccan Meat

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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TihaneStuffed lamb spleen

Tihane, or tehal, is an old Eid al-Adha speciality from Moroccan towns such as Fez and Marrakech, made on the days after the sacrifice when the offal is shared out. The lamb's spleen is cut open into a pocket and stuffed with chopped liver and heart, a little fat, green olives, preserved lemon, garlic and cumin, then sewn shut, poached and roasted until browned. It is sliced thin and eaten warm or cold with bread. Ask a halal butcher for the spleen and offal. Chef's tip: prick the spleen with a fine needle before poaching so it doesn't burst in the pot.

130 min

Moroccan Meat

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Tire Sainte-CatherinePulled molasses taffy

On 25 November, Quebec celebrates St Catherine, patron of unmarried women, with tire Sainte-Catherine, a pulled molasses taffy. The custom goes back to Marguerite Bourgeoys, who is said to have made taffy in the 1600s to draw children to her school in Ville-Marie, and today schools and families still 'pull the tire' together. Hot molasses and sugar syrup is cooled, then pulled with buttered hands until it turns golden and satiny, twisted into ropes and cut into pieces. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: pull it as soon as it is cool enough to handle, as it sets fast; work in pairs.

55 min

Canadian Desserts

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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CroquignolesTwisted nutmeg doughnuts

Croquignoles are old-fashioned Quebec doughnuts, cut into strips, slit and twisted into knots, then fried and rolled in sugar. Grandmothers made them by the dozen for the réveillon, the feast after midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, and for New Year's Day visits. They are dense and cakey rather than yeasty, scented with nutmeg. Chef's tip: keep the dough soft and well chilled, so it is easy to roll and the croquignoles stay tender; extra flour makes them tough.

70 min

Canadian Baking

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Tmar mehchi (Moroccan almond-stuffed dates)

Tmar mehchi is the stuffed date of Fez and Marrakech, piled high on silver trays at weddings, engagements and Eid, and offered to guests with mint tea. Soft dates are filled with a homemade almond paste perfumed with orange-blossom water, often tinted pale green or pink to match the celebration, then scored with a knife so the filling shows. They are soft, rich and caramel-sweet, with a floral, nutty middle. The paste here is mixed from ground almonds and icing sugar, so there is no shop marzipan, which can contain egg white. It is naturally egg-free: the dates' sticky flesh and a few spoonfuls of orange-blossom water bind the almond filling. Chef's tip: add the orange-blossom water a little at a time and stop when the paste is firm like play dough. The common mistake is a wet paste, which oozes out and makes the dates slippery.

30 min

Moroccan Desserts

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Sucre à la crèmeBrown sugar fudge

In Quebec, sucre à la crème is the sweet that comes out at Christmas: a soft, melting brown-sugar fudge made from brown sugar, cream and butter, cut into squares and shared at the réveillon after midnight Mass and through the Fêtes. Every grandmother's recipe differs a little; this one is the classic stovetop method, gluten free and ready in under an hour. Chef's tip: beat the cooled mixture until it loses its gloss and starts to thicken, then pour it at once; that beating is what makes it creamy rather than toffee-like.

40 min

Canadian Desserts

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Poolaki (Isfahan saffron sugar discs)Saffron caramel discs

Poolaki are the glassy, coin-thin sugar discs of Isfahan, sold in tins in the bazaar near Naqsh-e Jahan square and served with tea in Iranian homes, especially at Nowruz and when guests drop by. Instead of stirring sugar into the glass, you hold a disc on your tongue and sip strong black tea through it. They snap cleanly, then melt into a light caramel scented with saffron, sometimes with cardamom or a scatter of pistachio. They are naturally egg-free: sugar syrup cooked to the hard-crack stage sets as clear as glass the moment it is spread thin, and a little vinegar stops it from turning grainy. Chef's tip: do not stir once the syrup boils; swirl the pan instead and wash down the sides with a wet pastry brush. The common mistake is stirring, which makes the syrup crystallise and turn cloudy.

25 min

Persian Desserts

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Ab doogh khiarChilled yogurt and cucumber soup

On the hottest afternoons in Tehran, Shiraz and Isfahan, ab doogh khiar is lunch: thick yoghurt thinned with iced water, packed with crunchy cucumber, walnuts, raisins and dried mint and rose petals, then filled at the table with torn pieces of dried flatbread that soften like croutons in a cold soup. It is cooling, tangy and faintly sweet, and is eaten with a spoon and plenty of fresh herbs alongside. A bowl gives about 12 g of protein from the yoghurt and walnuts, so it is a light meal rather than a high-protein one; strain the yoghurt yourself or use thick Greek-style yoghurt to push it a little higher. The common mistake is adding the bread too early: it turns to mush, so serve it on the side and let everyone add their own. Chef's tip: rub the dried mint between your palms over the bowl; the warmth releases its oils and the flavour is twice as strong.

15 min

Persian Soups

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