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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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MukimoPotato, pea and maize mash

Mukimo comes from the Kikuyu people of the green hills around Mount Kenya, Nyeri and Murang'a, and it is on the table at every family celebration, from weddings to Christmas, as well as at everyday suppers. Potatoes are boiled and mashed with pumpkin leaves, green peas and maize, so the mash turns a speckled green. Serve it with a bean or vegetable stew. A portion gives about 12 g of protein, from the peas, maize and potatoes, so it is a side rather than a high-protein main; with a bean stew it becomes one. Use spinach if you can't find pumpkin leaves. The common mistake is a watery mash from badly drained potatoes and greens; steam the potatoes dry and squeeze the greens. Chef's tip: blend the cooked leaves with a spoon of their cooking water before folding them in; the mash turns an even green instead of stringy.

50 minEast African Vegetarian

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KisamvuCassava leaves in coconut milk

Kisamvu is everyday food along the Tanzanian coast, in Dar es Salaam, Tanga and on Zanzibar, eaten at lunch with ugali or rice; inland it is often cooked with ground peanuts, as here. Young cassava leaves are pounded to a fine green mash and cooked for a long time, first in water to make them safe and tender, then with onion, tomato and coconut milk until rich and creamy. It is vegan, with about 8 g of protein per portion from the peanuts and the leaves, so it is a hearty side rather than a high-protein main. Cassava leaves must be cooked thoroughly: they contain natural compounds that are only removed by long boiling, so never shorten the first boil. The common mistake is adding the coconut milk too early; it splits and the leaves stay tough. Frozen pounded cassava leaves from African grocers work very well. Chef's tip: leave the pot uncovered for the first boil, so the steam carries the bitterness away.

90 minEast African Vegetarian

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OmenaFried silver fish with tomato

Omena are tiny silver cyprinid fish netted at night on Lake Victoria and sun-dried on the shores around Kisumu and Homa Bay; in western Kenya they are a cheap, protein-rich weeknight dinner, fried crisp and then simmered briefly in onion and tomato and eaten with ugali and sukuma wiki. They are eaten whole, bones and all, like whitebait. The common mistake is skipping the rinse: dried omena carry sand from the drying beaches, so soak and swish them in several changes of warm water. Chef's tip: fry the drained fish on their own until crisp and fragrant before the tomato goes in; it takes away the strong 'lake' smell and keeps them from going mushy. Look for dried omena (also sold as dagaa) in African grocers.

25 minEast African Fish

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Mchuzi wa mayaiEgg curry in coconut and tomato

On the Swahili coast, from Mombasa and Malindi to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, mchuzi wa mayai is the curry made when there is no meat or fish in the house: boiled eggs simmered in a turmeric-yellow sauce of tomato and coconut milk with ginger, chilli and fresh coriander. It is a weeknight supper with white rice or soft chapati, and it costs very little. The mistake to avoid is boiling hard once the coconut milk goes in, which makes the sauce split and turn oily; keep it at a gentle bubble. Chef's tip: score each peeled egg with a few shallow cuts so the sauce seeps inside and the eggs don't slide around the pan.

25 minEast African Curries

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TopfengolatschenSweet quark puff pastry squares

A Topfengolatsche is what Viennese office workers grab from the bakery on the way in, and what grandparents order with a Melange in a coffee house on a Sunday afternoon. The corners of a puff pastry square are folded over a lemony, vanilla-scented filling of Topfen (Austrian quark) with plump raisins, and the top gets a thin white glaze. It is flaky, light and not too sweet. Raisins are sometimes soaked in rum; warm water or orange juice works just as well, and the recipe below is alcohol-free. Wet quark is the classic problem, because it turns the filling runny and it leaks out in the oven. Chef's tip: hang the quark in a sieve lined with a clean cloth for an hour, or squeeze it, until it is as thick as soft cream cheese.

57 min

Austrian Baking

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Mkate wa siniaCoconut and rice tray cake

Ramadan evenings in Stone Town and Mombasa bring out trays of mkate wa sinia, cut into wedges and set out for iftar beside spiced chai and dates. Soaked rice is blended with coconut milk, sugar, cardamom and yeast into a pourable batter (hence its other name, mkate wa kumimina, 'poured bread'), left to bubble, then baked in a round metal tray called a sinia. Inside it is spongy and full of holes like a crumpet; the top and base turn golden and slightly chewy. It contains no egg, dairy or wheat. Under-blending is what ruins it: a gritty batter bakes into a sandy cake, so blend until a drop rubbed between your fingers feels completely smooth. Chef's tip: add a couple of spoonfuls of cooked rice to the blender, the way coastal cooks do; it makes the crumb softer and more springy.

235 minEast African Baking

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Kärntner ReindlingCinnamon raisin yeast cake

Carinthia's Easter loaf takes its name from the Reindl, the round, deep pan it is baked in, and in southern Austria no Easter basket goes to church without one. Inside the golden yeast crust is a spiral of butter, cinnamon sugar and plump raisins, so every slice shows a dark swirl. Locals eat it two ways: sweet with coffee on Easter morning, or alongside the savoury Easter platter with horseradish. Many bakers soak the raisins in rum overnight; warm water or tea works just as well and keeps it alcohol-free. A dry, crumbly Reindling usually means too much flour went in during kneading, so keep the dough soft and only lightly floured. Chef's tip: butter the pan well and dust it with sugar, which caramelises into a thin crunchy shell.

180 min

Austrian Baking

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ErdäpfelstrudelSavoury potato strudel

Austrians, especially in the Mühlviertel of Upper Austria and the Waldviertel, make savoury strudels as often as sweet ones, and Erdäpfelstrudel is a farmhouse favourite for a meatless Friday or a cold evening. Thin pastry wraps a filling of potatoes, fried onion, sour cream, marjoram and parsley, baked until crisp and golden and sliced with a green salad or a dill and sour-cream dip. Bought filo makes it easy at home. The mistake to avoid is a wet filling, which turns the pastry soggy underneath. Chef's tip: cool the filling completely before rolling; warm filling makes the layers stick and tear.

90 min

Austrian Vegetarian

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MalakwangSour greens in peanut paste

Gulu and the villages of Acholiland wait for the rains, when malakwang, the tart young leaves of the roselle hibiscus, come into the markets in big bundles. Simmered down with onion and tomato and finished with roasted peanut or sesame paste, they make a thick, dark green, sharply sour and richly nutty sauce that tastes of lemon and cream at once. It is eaten with boiled sweet potatoes, cassava or millet bread at a family meal. Look for fresh or frozen roselle leaves at African grocers, or the same leaf sold as gongura or sorrel leaves in Indian shops; spinach with lime juice is a fallback. Chef's tip: let the leaves collapse fully before the paste goes in, otherwise their sourness stays raw and harsh.

40 minEast African Sides

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BooCowpea leaves in peanut paste

Ask someone from Lira or Kitgum what home tastes like and many will say boo, the leaves of the cowpea plant, picked young from the same fields that give the beans. Slow-cooked until they are dark and silky, then thickened with groundnut paste, they turn into a mellow, slightly bitter, deeply savoury green sauce with none of the tartness of malakwang. It is everyday food, eaten with kalo, posho or sweet potatoes. Fresh, frozen or dried cowpea leaves are sold at African grocers; kale or spring greens stand in well. Chef's tip: a pinch of bicarbonate of soda in the first boil softens tough leaves quickly and keeps their colour; any more than a pinch makes them soapy.

40 minEast African Sides

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Beef wet fry

Order 'beef wet fry' at any Nairobi hoteli, from a River Road lunch counter to a Westlands nyama joint, and a sizzling dish of browned beef cubes arrives in a thick, tomato-red sauce glossy with fat. It sits halfway between a dry fry and a stew: the meat is chewy-tender and well seared, and the sauce is reduced so far it clings rather than pools. Ugali is the classic partner, with kachumbari and a tangle of sukuma wiki, though chapati or rice are just as common. The mistake most home cooks make is crowding the pan, so the beef steams grey in its own juices instead of browning. Chef's tip: give the beef a short covered simmer in a splash of water before frying; it tenderises the cheaper cuts Kenyan butchers sell and the water cooks off in time for the browning.

50 minEast African Meat

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LapenaPigeon peas in sesame paste

Lapena comes out for Christmas, weddings and the days when relatives arrive in Gulu from Kampala: dried pigeon peas boiled until soft, then cooked slowly in roasted sesame paste until thick, earthy and nutty, with a faint bitterness from the sesame that balances the sweetness of the peas. Some families mash it smooth, others keep the peas whole; both are eaten with kwon millet bread, rice or boiled cassava. Dried pigeon peas are sold as toor or arhar (whole, not split) in Indian grocers. The common mistake is adding salt before the peas are tender, which keeps the skins tough. Chef's tip: if you can only find light tahini, toast it in a dry pan for a minute or two until it darkens to get closer to Acholi sesame paste.

120 minEast African Curries

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EshabweWhipped ghee sauce

Cattle-keeping families of Ankole in western Uganda serve this pale, fluffy sauce at weddings and introduction ceremonies, where making it well is a point of pride. Soft ghee is beaten by hand while cool salted water is added a spoonful at a time, until it turns from yellow to snowy white and as light as whipped cream, with a rich, buttery, salty taste. It goes over hot matoke, steamed sweet potatoes, katogo or kalo millet bread, and melts into them on the plate. It is vegetarian but not vegan, as it is made from cow's ghee. Chef's tip: everything must stay cool; if the ghee is warm or the water tepid it will never turn white, so chill the bowl and use water straight from the fridge.

20 minEast African Chutneys & Dips

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Ndizi na maharageGreen bananas and red beans

Across Tanzania, from Dar es Salaam to the banana farms around Kilimanjaro, ndizi na maharage is a filling weekday lunch: green cooking bananas and red beans simmered in one pot with tomato, onion and coconut milk until the bananas are soft and the sauce creamy. It needs nothing more than a few slices of avocado or a fresh kachumbari salad on the side. The usual mistake is cooking dried red kidney beans gently from the start: they must boil hard for 10 minutes first to be safe. Peel green bananas with oiled hands, as the sap stains and sticks. Chef's tip: add the bananas only once the beans are tender, then let them simmer until they just break at the edges and thicken the sauce.

90 minEast African Vegetarian

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Mchuzi wa njegerePea and potato coconut curry

Mchuzi wa njegere, pea curry, is cooked in homes from Dar es Salaam to Tanga for an easy family lunch or supper, and it is a Friday favourite when families keep the meal meat-free. Green peas and potato chunks simmer in coconut milk with onion, tomato, turmeric and a mild curry powder until the potatoes are tender and the sauce is golden and creamy. Serve with chapati, plain rice or ugali. The usual mistake is boiling the curry hard once the coconut milk goes in, which makes it split and greasy. Chef's tip: add the peas last, as frozen peas need only 5 minutes and stay sweet and bright.

40 minEast African Curries

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MchemshoBeef and vegetable pot

The name just means 'boiled', but Dar es Salaam families treat mchemsho as comfort food, made on a cool rainy evening or for anyone feeling under the weather. Beef on the bone simmers with garlic and ginger into a clear, savoury broth, and whole potatoes, carrots, green bananas and wedges of cabbage go in late so each stays distinct. It arrives in wide bowls, everything in big pieces, with lime and fresh chilli on the table to sharpen it to your taste; some cooks make it with chicken instead. Adding all the vegetables at once is the common error, leaving the cabbage grey and the potatoes in pieces. Chef's tip: blanch and rinse the beef first, then start again in fresh water, for a broth that stays clear.

90 minEast African Meat

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NakatiBitter eggplant leaves with tomato

Nakati are the leaves of the African eggplant, and in Kampala and the Buganda countryside they are cooked as an everyday green beside matooke, posho or rice. The leaves are simmered down with onion and tomato until soft, then often enriched with a spoonful of groundnut paste that softens their pleasant bitterness and makes a creamy sauce. Look for nakati at African grocers; young spinach with a handful of kale is a good stand-in. The usual mistake is adding the groundnut paste too early, which lets it catch and burn. Chef's tip: loosen the groundnut paste with a little hot water before stirring it in, so it melts smoothly into the greens.

28 minEast African Vegetarian

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