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413 recipes

Bokit morueFried bread with salt cod

The bokit is Guadeloupe's street sandwich, fried to order at roadside vans in Pointe-à-Pitre, Le Gosier and Sainte-Rose, eaten late at night after a party or at the beach on a Sunday. A simple dough is rolled into rounds and deep-fried until it puffs like a pillow, then split and filled; the classic filling is chiquetaille de morue, shredded salt cod with lime, onion, garlic and hot pepper, with lettuce, tomato and cucumber. It contains fish and wheat. The common mistake is under-soaking the cod, which makes it harsh and salty: soak it in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water three or four times. The bokit is done when puffed, golden on both sides and hollow-sounding, and the cod is poached until it flakes. Chef's tip: roll the dough thin and even, about 5 mm, so it balloons in the oil and opens neatly like a pitta.

65 minCaribbean Fast Food

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Blaff de poissonFish in lime broth

Blaff is the fisherman's breakfast and lunch of Martinique and Guadeloupe, cooked in Sainte-Anne or Deshaies with fish bought straight off the boats in the morning. The name is said to echo the splash the fish makes as it drops into the boiling broth. Red snapper steaks are marinated in lime, garlic and hot pepper, then poached briefly in a clear broth fragrant with bois d'Inde (allspice berries), thyme, chive and a whole hot pepper. It contains fish. The common mistake is boiling the fish hard or too long, so it falls apart and dries out; it needs only a gentle simmer. It is done when the flesh is opaque all the way through and flakes easily from the bone. Serve with white rice or boiled green bananas. Chef's tip: squeeze in fresh lime just before serving to wake up the broth.

30 minCaribbean Fish

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Bahamian johnnycake

In the Bahamas johnnycake is not a pancake but a golden pan bread, baked in a skillet or tin and sliced warm in Nassau homes and Out Island kitchens, at breakfast with stew fish or alongside conch chowder and peas and rice. The dough is a rich, lightly sweet mix of flour, butter, milk and a little sugar, closer to a soft scone than a yeast bread. It contains wheat and milk. The common mistake is kneading it like bread, which makes it tough; mix just until it comes together. It is done when the top is deep golden and a skewer in the centre comes out clean, and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Chef's tip: brush the top with melted butter the moment it comes out of the oven for a soft, shiny crust.

50 minCaribbean Breads & Parathas

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Accras de morueSalt cod fritters

No Christmas, christening or Sunday apéritif in Martinique or Guadeloupe starts without a bowl of accras de morue, the light, puffy salt-cod fritters sold hot from paper cones at Fort-de-France's markets. Desalted cod is flaked into a batter scented with chive, parsley, thyme, garlic and a little fiery piment, then dropped by the spoonful into hot oil. A vegetable version is already on the site; this is the classic with fish. It contains fish and wheat. The usual mistake is not soaking the cod long enough, which makes the accras painfully salty: soak it in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water three or four times. They are done when puffed, deep golden all over and cooked through, with the fish piping hot. Chef's tip: let the batter rest for an hour so it thickens and the fritters puff into airy rounds.

50 minCaribbean Snacks & Starters

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Sancocho dominicanoMeat and root vegetable stew

Sancocho is the dish Dominicans make for a crowd: birthdays, New Year's Eve, rainy Sundays and the morning after a party, from Santo Domingo to Washington Heights. Several meats (here beef, pork ribs and chicken; the festive sancocho de siete carnes uses seven) simmer with oregano, garlic and coriander, then cassava, yautía, green plantain, yam, squash and corn cook down until the broth turns thick and golden. This recipe contains pork. The common mistake is adding all the vegetables at once, so the squash melts while the plantain stays hard; add them in order of firmness. Cassava must always be peeled, cored and cooked until completely soft, never eaten raw. It is done when the meats are tender, the chicken has reached 74 °C and the pork 71 °C, and the broth coats a spoon. Serve with white rice and avocado. Chef's tip: let some of the squash dissolve completely; it is what thickens a real sancocho.

160 minCaribbean Soups

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Bahamian peas and rice

Peas 'n' rice is on almost every plate in the Bahamas, from Nassau fish fry shacks at Arawak Cay to Sunday dinner in Eleuthera, served with fried chicken, steamed fish or cracked conch. Unlike Jamaican rice and peas there is no coconut: pigeon peas and rice are cooked in a rich base of browned salt pork, onion, sweet pepper, tomato paste and thyme, which gives the rice its signature brown-red colour. This recipe contains pork (salt pork or bacon). The usual mistake is stirring once the rice is in, which breaks the grains and makes it gummy; cover tightly and leave it alone. It is done when the liquid has gone and the grains are tender and separate. Chef's tip: let the tomato paste fry in the pork fat until it darkens to brick red before adding water; that is where the colour and depth come from.

45 minCaribbean Rice & Grains

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Court-bouillon de poissonSnapper in tomato sauce

In Martinique court-bouillon is not a poaching liquid but a rich red fish stew, cooked for Sunday lunch in Le Robert or Le Vauclin and served with white rice, red beans and a slice of breadfruit or yam. Red snapper is marinated with lime, garlic and hot pepper, then simmered in a sauce of tomato, onion, garlic, chive and thyme coloured with a little roucou (annatto) oil. It contains fish. The usual mistake is stirring the pot once the fish is in, which breaks the pieces; shake the pan gently instead. It is done when the fish is opaque through and flakes at the bone and the sauce is thick enough to cling. Chef's tip: finish with a spoonful of uncooked garlic, chive and lime stirred in at the end, the way Martiniquais cooks do, for a fresh, sharp lift.

50 minCaribbean Fish

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Vajíčková pomazánkaEgg spread

Vajíčková pomazánka is the egg spread found in every Czech and Slovak fridge, piled on rye bread for večeře, the simple bread-and-spread supper, as well as at birthday parties and on trains. Hard-boiled eggs are grated and mashed with soft butter or mayonnaise, mustard and chives into a creamy, savoury spread, finished with sliced gherkin or radish. The common mistake is mashing the eggs while still warm, which melts the butter and makes the spread greasy; cool them in cold water first. Chef's tip: grate the eggs on the fine side of a box grater for a smooth, fluffy spread with no chunks of white.

15 min

Czech Snacks & Starters

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Houbová smaženiceMushrooms scrambled with egg

In late summer and autumn, when half of Czechia heads into the woods with baskets, houbová smaženice is what the day's finds become for supper: fresh mushrooms fried with onion and a pinch of caraway, then scrambled with eggs and eaten with rye bread. It tastes of the forest, and cultivated chestnut and oyster mushrooms make a very good version in any season. Only use wild mushrooms that an expert has identified. The common mistake is crowding the pan, so the mushrooms steam in their juice instead of frying golden. Chef's tip: salt the mushrooms only after they have browned; salt too early draws out water and stops them colouring.

15 min

Czech Vegetarian

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Dim bhortaMashed eggs with mustard oil

Dim bhorta is one of the many bhortas (mashes) on the everyday Bangladeshi table, made in Dhaka and Sylhet homes on busy evenings or when the fridge holds little more than eggs. Hard-boiled eggs are mashed by hand with crisp fried onion, green chilli, coriander and a generous splash of pungent raw mustard oil, then eaten with steaming rice and dal. It is rich, sharp and spicy. The common mistake is soft-boiling the eggs; the yolks must be fully firm to mash properly, and fully set eggs are safest for everyone. Chef's tip: crush the green chilli and salt together with your fingertips before adding the eggs, so the heat spreads evenly through the mash. Use mustard oil sold for cooking; where bottles are labelled for external use only, buy a cold-pressed edible one.

15 min

Bangladeshi Sides

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BatashaPuffy sugar drops

On Pohela Boishakh, the Bengali New Year in mid-April, the fairs that spring up in Dhaka, across Bangladesh and in West Bengal sell batasha by the basket, and shopkeepers hand them out with sweets as they open their new account books for halkhata. Temples receive them as offerings, and children crunch them on the way home. They are simply sugar boiled hot, then foamed with a pinch of soda and dropped in coins that set airy, crisp and melt-in-the-mouth. The common mistake is pulling the syrup off too early: below the hard-ball stage the drops spread flat and stay sticky. The syrup is ready at about 125 °C, when a drop in cold water forms a firm ball that keeps its shape. Chef's tip: work fast once the soda goes in, because the syrup sets within a minute; ask someone to help you drop them.

25 min

Bangladeshi Desserts

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Chushi pithaRice flour strands in milk

When the new rice is in and the date palms start giving their winter sap, Bangladeshi families make pitha for Nabanna and through the cold months, and chushi pitha is the one grandmothers roll by hand, an evening of small grain-shaped strands rubbed out between the palms. The strands are cooked in reduced milk with bay leaf and cardamom, then sweetened with fresh khejur gur, giving a pale caramel pudding with soft, slightly chewy pieces. The common mistake is adding the jaggery while the milk is still boiling: it can curdle it, so take the pan off the heat and let it cool for a few minutes first. The strands are done when they float, turn translucent at the edges and are soft right through. Chef's tip: let the rolled strands dry on a tray for 15 minutes before cooking; they hold their shape instead of dissolving into the milk.

75 min

Bangladeshi Desserts

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Chhanar murkiSugar-coated chhena cubes

In Bangladesh and West Bengal, Hindu families mark Bijoya Dashami at the end of Durga Puja by visiting neighbours with plates of sweets, and chhanar murki is one of the simplest to make at home. Fresh chhena is pressed firm, cut into tiny cubes and cooked in sugar syrup, which is then boiled down until it crystallises and clings to each cube as a white, crunchy coat; inside they stay soft and milky. Common mistake: using soft, wet chhena, which dissolves in the syrup. Press it under a weight until it is firm enough to slice cleanly. When the syrup turns cloudy and grainy, it is about to crystallise onto the cubes, so lower the heat and keep tossing. Chef's tip: toss the cubes off the heat for a full minute as the syrup dries; constant gentle movement gives an even, snowy coating instead of clumps.

85 min

Bangladeshi Indian Sweets

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MurkiPuffed rice in jaggery

Nabanna, the 'new rice' festival of late autumn in Bangladesh and West Bengal, celebrates the first harvest of aman paddy, and the season's first date-palm jaggery arrives just in time. Murki is the treat every village makes for it: crisp puffed rice tossed in a pan of thick, boiling khejur gur until each grain is coated in a thin, crackly glaze, with a hint of dry ginger. It is offered to guests on Nabanna and on Bijoya and Lakshmi Puja, and children eat it by the handful. The common mistake is undercooking the syrup, which leaves the murki chewy and clumped; overcook it and it tastes burnt. The syrup is ready when large, slow bubbles cover the surface and a drop in cold water sets into a ball you can roll. Chef's tip: toss with two spatulas, lifting from the bottom, and keep going until the grains separate and stop sticking.

20 min

Bangladeshi Desserts

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Ilish bhajaFried hilsa fish

Breakfast on Pohela Boishakh in Dhaka means panta bhat, rice soaked overnight in water, eaten under the trees at Ramna with crisp fried hilsa, raw onion and green chilli. Ilish bhaja is the simplest way to cook Bangladesh's national fish: steaks rubbed only with turmeric and salt and fried in mustard oil until the edges crisp and the rich, oily flesh turns soft and sweet. The oil left in the pan, perfumed with the fish, is poured over rice and is half the pleasure. The common mistake is turning the steaks too soon, which tears the delicate skin; leave them until they release from the pan by themselves. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque right through and flakes away from the central bone. Chef's tip: hilsa is full of fine bones, so eat it slowly with your fingers and warn guests who have not tried it before.

30 min

Bangladeshi Fish

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Velikonoční nádivkaBread, egg and smoked pork bake

Velikonoční nádivka ('Easter stuffing', also called hlavička) is a Czech and Moravian Easter dish, baked on Holy Saturday or Easter Sunday. Cubes of bread rolls are soaked in milk and eggs, then mixed with smoked pork and a big handful of young nettles, spinach or spring herbs, and baked until golden and puffy. It's eaten warm or cold, sliced, often beside roast lamb or chicken. For a vegetarian version, leave out the smoked pork and add 250 g fried mushrooms. Chef's tip: pick nettles wearing gloves and blanch them for 30 seconds, which takes away the sting.

75 min

Czech Meat

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Rybí polévkaCarp soup

In Czechia the Christmas Eve supper begins with rybí polévka, a soup made from the trimmings of the Christmas carp, which is often bought live at street stalls in the days before; here you simply ask the fishmonger for prepared carp trimmings and a fillet. The bones and trimmings make a clear stock that is simmered with carrot, celeriac and parsley root, then filled with flakes of carp and served with croutons fried in butter. Many families add the carp roe. Chef's tip: strain the stock carefully through muslin, as carp has many fine bones.

105 min

Czech Soups

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Kapr na černoCarp in dark sweet-sour sauce

Before fried breaded carp took over the Czech Christmas Eve table, families in Bohemia served kapr na černo, 'black carp': fish simmered in a dark, glossy, sweet-sour sauce of root vegetables, gingerbread, prunes, nuts and dark beer. It is rich and spiced, closer to a medieval feast dish than to the modern menu, and served with bread dumplings or potatoes. This version uses a non-alcoholic dark malt drink so the sauce is alcohol-free; adults may use dark beer. Chef's tip: grate the gingerbread finely, so it melts into a smooth sauce rather than leaving soggy crumbs.

105 min

Czech Fish

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MazanecEaster raisin and almond bread

Mazanec is the round Easter bread of Bohemia, baked on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter Sunday and Monday. The sweet yeast dough is rich with butter, egg yolks and lemon, studded with raisins and almonds, and scored with a deep cross before baking so it opens like a flower. Old recipes soak the raisins in rum; here they are soaked in warm tea, so the bread is alcohol-free. Slice it and spread with butter and honey. Chef's tip: give mazanec a long, slow bake at a moderate heat, because the rich dough browns quickly and the centre needs time.

85 min

Czech Baking

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HrudkaEgg and milk cheese

Hrudka (also called sirok or egg cheese) is made in eastern Slovakia and among Rusyn and Slovak families abroad for Easter. Eggs and milk are stirred over a low heat until they separate into soft curds, then the curds are tied tightly in a cloth into a ball and hung to drain overnight. The pale-yellow, mild, slightly sweet 'cheese' is taken to church in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and sliced at Easter breakfast with ham, bread and horseradish. It needs no rennet, so it is naturally vegetarian. Chef's tip: keep the heat low and stir constantly; high heat makes rubbery curds.

40 min

Czech Vegetarian

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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