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126 recipes

Tartare d'alguesSeaweed tartare

Tartare d'algues is a modern Breton classic, a dark green, salty spread of chopped seaweed with capers, shallots, gherkins and lemon, sold in jars at markets in Roscoff and Saint-Malo and spread on toast or blinis at the apéro. Brittany harvests more seaweed than anywhere else in Europe. The common mistake is not rinsing salted seaweed well enough, so it is far too salty. Chef's tip: rinse the seaweed in two changes of cold water, then taste a piece before chopping.

20 min

French Chutneys & Dips

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AnchoïadeAnchovy dip

Anchoïade is the anchovy dip of Provence, pounded with garlic and olive oil and served at the apéro or as a summer starter with a big basket of raw vegetables, celery, fennel, radishes, peppers and cauliflower, for everyone to dip; in Marseille and Nice it is also spread on toast. It uses salted (cured) anchovies, which are not cooked: cured fish is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system; for a safer version, warm the finished anchoïade gently in a small pan for 3–4 minutes until steaming hot before serving. The common mistake is adding the oil too fast, so it splits. Chef's tip: soak the salted anchovies in milk or water for 10 minutes to soften their saltiness.

15 min

French Chutneys & Dips

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Sole meunièreSole in browned butter

Sole meunière, "in the style of the miller's wife", is the fish dish of old Paris brasseries and Normandy seaside restaurants, served on Fridays and for special lunches with boiled potatoes. The sole is dusted in flour and cooked in foaming butter until golden, then bathed in nutty browned butter with lemon juice and parsley. The common mistake is a pan that is too crowded or not hot enough, so the flour turns soggy instead of crisp. Chef's tip: cook the fish in clarified butter or butter with a little oil, then make a fresh batch of browned butter for the sauce; it stays golden, not burnt.

25 min

French Fish

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Raie au beurre noirSkate in brown butter

Raie au beurre noir is a much-loved bistro and home dish all along the French coasts and in Paris, served on Fridays with boiled potatoes. The skate wing is poached gently in a vinegary court-bouillon until the soft, ribbed flesh slides off its cartilage, then it is covered with butter cooked until deep brown and nutty, sharpened with capers and a splash of vinegar. Despite the name, the butter should be dark hazelnut, never black and burnt. The common mistake is overcooking the skate, which turns it stringy. Chef's tip: buy skate very fresh; any smell of ammonia means it is old.

30 min

French Fish

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Petits pois à la françaiseBraised peas with lettuce

Petits pois à la française is the spring side dish of French family Sunday lunches, served with roast chicken or lamb from April to June, when fresh peas and soft round lettuces arrive in the markets together. The peas are braised in their own steam with shredded lettuce, spring onions and butter, which melts into a sweet, glossy little sauce. Frozen petits pois work very well out of season. The common mistake is adding too much water, which boils the peas grey instead of braising them. Chef's tip: a pinch of sugar brings out the sweetness of the peas, especially if they are a little starchy.

25 min

French Sides

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Potage Saint-GermainFresh pea soup

Potage Saint-Germain is a Parisian classic named after the Saint-Germain district, a bright green spring soup served at the start of family dinners in May and June when fresh peas arrive, though frozen peas make an excellent version all year. Peas are simmered briefly with lettuce, spring onions and mint, then blended smooth so the soup tastes fresh and sweet. The common mistake is cooking the peas too long, which turns the soup khaki and dull. Chef's tip: cool the blended soup quickly in a bowl set over iced water if you are not serving it at once; it keeps its vivid colour.

30 min

French Soups

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Olives marinéesMarinated olives

Marinated olives are on every Provençal table at the apéro, set out in little bowls with pastis or a cold rosé for the grown-ups and lemonade for the children, and they are sold by the scoop at the markets of Nyons, Aix and Nice. Mixed olives are tossed in olive oil with herbes de Provence, garlic, orange zest and a little chilli, and left for a day to soak up the flavours. The common mistake is serving them fridge-cold, which dulls the taste and sets the oil. Chef's tip: warm them very gently in a pan for 2 minutes before serving.

10 min

French Snacks & Starters

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Poireaux vinaigretteLeeks in vinaigrette

Poireaux vinaigrette is the humble leek starter of Parisian bistros, served lukewarm on long plates from autumn to early spring, when leeks are cheap and sweet. Whole young leeks are poached until silky, drained well and dressed while still warm with a punchy mustard vinaigrette, so they drink it in. Some bistros finish them with chopped egg; this version keeps it vegan with shallots and chives. The common mistake is not washing the leeks well, which leaves grit between the layers. Chef's tip: tie the leeks in a bundle before poaching so they stay whole and easy to lift out.

30 min

French Salads

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Langues de chatCat's tongue biscuits

Langues de chat, "cat's tongues", are long, thin butter biscuits with golden edges, served with coffee, ice cream or a bowl of chocolate mousse in French homes and cafés; they keep well in a tin and children love them. A simple batter of butter, sugar, egg white and flour is piped in strips and baked until the edges just brown. The common mistake is piping them too close together; they spread. Chef's tip: tap the tray firmly on the worktop after piping so the strips flatten evenly.

25 min

French Baking

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MendiantsChocolate nut and fruit discs

Mendiants are little discs of chocolate topped with an almond, a hazelnut, a raisin and a dried fig, the four "beggars" of the Provençal Christmas, whose colours were said to match the robes of the four mendicant orders of monks; they are part of the thirteen desserts and a favourite home-made Christmas gift. The common mistake is letting the chocolate set before adding the toppings, so they fall off. Chef's tip: pipe only six discs at a time and top them straight away.

30 min

French Desserts

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Sablés au parmesanParmesan shortbread

Sablés au parmesan are the crumbly savoury shortbreads French hosts bake for the apéro, served with a glass of something cold before dinner, and they keep well in a tin. Parmesan is always made with animal rennet, so for a vegetarian version use a vegetarian Italian-style hard cheese. The common mistake is overworking the dough, which makes them hard rather than melting. Chef's tip: roll the dough into a log and chill it, then slice and bake straight from the fridge.

27 min

French Snacks & Starters

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Céleri rémouladeCeleriac in mustard mayonnaise

Céleri rémoulade is the classic winter crudité of Paris, sold by the scoop at every charcuterie counter and served in brasseries as part of an assiette de crudités with grated carrots and beetroot. Raw celeriac is cut into fine matchsticks, softened briefly with lemon and salt, then folded through a thick mayonnaise sharpened with plenty of Dijon mustard. It tastes nutty and fresh and keeps well for a day. The mayonnaise uses a raw egg yolk: use a pasteurised yolk or good shop-bought mayonnaise for anyone pregnant, very young, elderly or with a weakened immune system. A common mistake is cutting the celeriac too thick, which leaves it woody and stops the dressing clinging. Chef's tip: salt and lemon the celeriac 15 minutes before dressing; it softens just enough and stops turning brown.

20 min

French Salads

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Saumon à l'oseilleSalmon with sorrel sauce

Saumon à l'oseille was created in the 1960s at the Troisgros brothers' famous restaurant in Roanne, north of Lyon, and it soon became a dinner-party classic in French homes. Thin escalopes of salmon are cooked for barely a minute and laid on a pale green cream sauce sharpened with sorrel, whose lemony bite cuts the richness of the fish. This home version uses a quick fish stock and no wine, so it is alcohol-free. The common mistake is overcooking the salmon; the thin escalopes are done the moment they turn pale. Chef's tip: add the sorrel at the very end and take it off the heat at once; it collapses in seconds and turns khaki if boiled.

25 min

French Fish

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Sauce viergeRaw tomato and olive oil sauce

Sauce vierge is the fresh summer sauce of Provence, made popular by chefs on the Côte d'Azur in the 1980s and now spooned over grilled fish, vegetables and pasta in homes from July to September. Diced ripe tomato, shallot and basil are gently warmed in good olive oil with lemon and coriander seed, just enough to release the flavours without cooking them. The common mistake is heating it too much, which turns it into a cooked tomato sauce. Chef's tip: use the ripest tomatoes you can find and leave the sauce to infuse for 20 minutes before serving.

12 min

French Basics

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Omelette aux fines herbesHerb omelette

Every French home cook learns the omelette aux fines herbes, the quick lunch or late supper served all over the country with a green salad and a glass of water or cider, and the test dish of every cookery school from Paris to Lyon. The eggs are stirred over a gentle heat so they set into soft, creamy curds, then rolled into a pale, smooth cigar with no brown colour at all. The four fines herbes, chives, parsley, chervil and tarragon, go in raw at the last minute so they stay bright. The usual mistake is a pan that is too hot, which browns and toughens the outside before the middle sets. Chef's tip: take the omelette off the heat while the centre still looks a little runny; it finishes cooking on the plate.

10 min

French Breakfast & Brunch

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Œufs cocotteBaked eggs with cream

Œufs cocotte are the French home cook's Sunday brunch or light supper, eggs baked gently in little ramekins in a water bath with a spoonful of crème fraîche, so the whites set softly and the yolks stay runny for dipping toast soldiers. A layer of buttery spinach, mushrooms or tomato is often hidden underneath. The common mistake is baking them without a water bath, which turns the whites rubbery before the yolk is warm. Chef's tip: take them out when the whites have just turned opaque but still wobble a little; the heat of the dish finishes them.

20 min

French Breakfast & Brunch

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Œufs mayonnaiseEggs with mayonnaise

In Paris bistros œufs mayonnaise is the cheapest and most loved starter on the slate, two or three halved eggs on a bed of lettuce under a spoonful of thick, wobbly mayonnaise, eaten at the zinc counter at lunchtime with bread. The whole dish depends on eggs that are just set in the yolk and a mayonnaise whisked by hand with Dijon mustard. The homemade mayonnaise uses a raw egg yolk: use a pasteurised egg yolk, or good shop-bought mayonnaise, if you are serving anyone pregnant, very young, elderly or with a weakened immune system. The common mistake is boiling the eggs too long, which gives a grey ring and a chalky yolk. Chef's tip: have every ingredient for the mayonnaise at room temperature, so the emulsion takes at once and never splits.

25 min

French Snacks & Starters

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Aigo boulidoGarlic and sage broth

Aigo boulido, "boiled water" in Provençal, is the old cure-all of Provence, a simple broth of garlic and sage served after the indulgent Christmas Eve gros souper and whenever someone feels run-down; the saying goes that it saves your life. The garlic simmers until mellow and sweet, then the broth is poured over slices of bread drizzled with olive oil and often thickened with an egg yolk. The common mistake is boiling the sage for too long, which makes the broth bitter. Chef's tip: add the sage only for the last 5 minutes and lift it out before serving.

30 min

French Soups

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Sauce béarnaiseTarragon butter sauce

Sauce béarnaise was created in the 1830s at a restaurant in Saint-Germain-en-Laye near Paris and named after the Béarn region, home of King Henri IV, and it is still the sauce French families serve with steak and frites on special evenings. Egg yolks are whisked over gentle heat with a sharp reduction of vinegar, shallot and tarragon, then thickened with warm butter into a glossy, tangy sauce. The yolks are only lightly cooked, so use pasteurised egg yolks if serving anyone pregnant, very young, elderly or with a weakened immune system. The common mistake is too much heat, which scrambles the yolks. Chef's tip: if the sauce starts to look grainy, whisk in a teaspoon of cold water off the heat at once.

30 min

French Basics

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Carottes râpéesGrated carrot salad

Carottes râpées is the everyday starter of French school canteens, bistro crudité plates and family lunches all over the country, a heap of finely grated carrots in a bright lemon dressing that wakes up any meal. It is sweet, juicy and crunchy, and takes ten minutes. The secret is grating the carrots on the fine side of the grater, so they release some juice into the dressing. The common mistake is using the coarse holes, which gives dry, chewy strands that do not take the dressing. Chef's tip: dress the carrots 20 minutes before serving and toss again just before the table; they soften slightly and taste much sweeter.

10 min

French Salads

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Champignons à la grecqueMushrooms in lemon and coriander

Despite the name, champignons à la grecque are a Parisian invention, a cold starter of the old bistros and delicatessens where vegetables were cooked "the Greek way" in olive oil, lemon and spices. Small button mushrooms simmer with tomato, coriander seed, bay and thyme until they shrink and soak up the tangy liquid, then they are left to cool and served at room temperature with bread on a crudités plate. They are even better made a day ahead. The common mistake is crowding raw mushrooms into a small pan so they stew grey; give them space and a lively simmer. Chef's tip: crush the coriander seeds lightly before adding them; they release a warm, citrus flavour.

30 min

French Sides

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Tuiles aux amandesAlmond tile biscuits

Tuiles are wafer-thin almond biscuits curved over a rolling pin while still hot, so they look like the clay roof tiles of Provence; French families serve them with ice cream, sorbet or mousse at the end of a meal. The batter is quick, and the curling is the fun part. The common mistake is spreading them too thick, so they stay soft. Chef's tip: bake just four at a time, because you have only seconds to shape them before they set.

30 min

French Baking

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Steak au poivrePepper steak

Steak au poivre is the great Paris bistro main course, ordered with a mountain of frites at lunchtime brasseries from the Left Bank to Montmartre. Thick steaks are pressed into coarsely cracked black peppercorns, seared hard, then the pan is deglazed with cognac and finished with cream into a peppery, glossy sauce. The cognac is flamed and boiled, which drives off most of the alcohol but not all; for an alcohol-free sauce use 60 ml beef stock with 1 tsp red wine vinegar instead. The common mistake is grinding the pepper too fine, which makes the crust bitter and fiercely hot. Chef's tip: crush the peppercorns under a heavy pan so they stay in coarse pieces, and sieve off the fine dust.

30 min

French Meat

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Bavette à l'échaloteFlank steak with shallots

Bavette à l'échalote is the everyday steak of Paris bistros and workers' cafés, cheaper than entrecôte and full of beefy flavour, served at lunch with frites. The flank steak is seared fast and served rare to medium, then the pan is used to soften a heap of shallots in butter with a splash of red wine into a sweet, sharp sauce. The wine is boiled down hard, which drives off most of the alcohol but not all; for an alcohol-free sauce use 100 ml beef stock and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar. The common mistake is cooking bavette past medium or slicing it along the grain, which makes it chewy. Chef's tip: slice it thinly across the grain after resting; every slice will be tender.

25 min

French Meat

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