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Khai luk khoei (son-in-law eggs)

Khai luk khoei, son-in-law eggs, is a central Thai dish made for family meals and temple fairs, and a favourite way to turn a few eggs into dinner: boiled eggs fried until blistered and golden, halved and spooned over with a sticky tamarind, palm sugar and fish sauce sauce, then finished with crisp shallots and chilli. It contains fish sauce, so it is not vegetarian. The mistake is frying wet eggs in oil that isn't hot enough; dry them well and the skin puffs and crisps instead of spitting. Chef's tip: boil the eggs for 7 minutes for a jammy centre; give 10 minutes and fully set yolks for anyone pregnant, very young, older or vulnerable.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Moo tod kratiem (Thai garlic pepper pork)

Moo tod kratiem is a one-plate dinner sold at made-to-order stalls across Bangkok and the rest of Thailand: slices of pork marinated in garlic, white pepper and soy, fried until the edges caramelise, then showered with crisp golden garlic and served over rice with a fried egg and cucumber. This is a pork dish. The mistake is frying the garlic on high heat; it burns in seconds and turns bitter, so fry it gently and take it out when it is pale gold. Chef's tip: pound the garlic, pepper and coriander root together rather than chopping, so the paste clings to the meat.

22 minThaiMeat
by KrazyBadal 0 views

CraquelinBrioche with sugar cube pockets

Sugar cubes, of all things, are the secret of the Belgian craquelin. Bakers in Ghent, Bruges and Brussels wrap broken cubes inside rich brioche, and as the loaf bakes they melt into little wells of syrup that set crunchy, while pearl sugar crackles on the crust (hence the name). It is a Sunday breakfast and weekend bakery loaf, sliced thick and eaten plain or with butter and a bowl of café au lait; Flemish bakers sometimes add orange zest. Leaving sugar pieces exposed on the outside, especially the base, is the usual pitfall: they caramelise, burn and glue the loaf to the tin. Chef's tip: chill the kneaded brioche for at least an hour before you fold in the sugar, so the butter firms and the dough is easy to wrap around the cubes.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Mashed nam wa banana (kluay nam wa bod)

Ask a Thai grandmother about first foods and she will talk about kluay nam wa, the short, plump banana that grows in nearly every garden in Thailand. Ripe ones are steamed, which softens the slightly astringent edge, then scraped and mashed for a baby's first taste, often in the afternoon. It is sweet, creamy and needs nothing added. There are no common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). If you can't find nam wa, use a small, very ripe ordinary banana. Chef's tip: steam the banana in its skin; it keeps the flesh moist and stops it browning.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Khanom khai (Thai egg cakes)

Khanom khai are the tiny golden sponge cakes that Thai market vendors bake in heavy brass moulds, filling the air with a sweet, eggy smell, and Bangkok children buy a paper bag of them after school. They are light and spongy inside with crisp, caramelised edges, and taste of egg and vanilla. They're made with oil rather than butter. They contain egg and gluten. Without a traditional mould, a mini-muffin or madeleine tin works well. Chef's tip: beat the eggs and sugar until really thick and pale; all the lift comes from that air.

30 minThaiBaking
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Kuay teow nam sai (clear rice noodle soup for toddlers)

Kuay teow nam sai, clear noodle soup, is ordered for Thai children at noodle shops everywhere because it comes without chilli, sugar or vinegar: thin rice noodles in a light broth with minced pork and blanched greens. At home it is easy to make it even gentler, with no-salt stock fragrant with garlic and coriander root, so that toddlers can have it from a year old and adults season their bowls at the table. It contains none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish) unless the family adds fish sauce. Chef's tip: soak the noodles in warm water rather than boiling them, then dip in the broth just before serving, so they stay silky.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Khao bod tap gai (mashed rice with chicken liver)

Khao bod, mashed soft rice, is how Thai babies start eating with the family, and steamed chicken liver is a favourite addition because it is so rich in iron. Here it is mashed with sweet pumpkin and a few morning glory or spinach leaves, so the flavour is mellow rather than strong. Liver is very high in vitamin A, so keep it to a small portion about once a week. It contains none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). Chef's tip: trim every white sinew from the livers, and the mash will be silky rather than stringy.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Gaeng liang (peppery pumpkin and lemon basil soup)

Older cooks in Ayutthaya and the central plains make this soup for new mothers and anyone feeling run down: a cloudy broth of pounded shallot, white pepper and krachai (fingerroot), packed with pumpkin, baby corn, sponge gourd and handfuls of lemon basil. It is eaten as one of several dishes with rice at a home meal, never as a creamy starter. The everyday version pounds dried shrimp and shrimp paste into the base and seasons with fish sauce; here dried shiitake and tamari give the savouriness, so it is vegan. Chef's tip: add the lemon basil off the heat at the very end; boiled basil turns black and loses the peppery perfume the soup is named for.

30 minThaiSoupsVeganGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Khao tom mat (banana sticky rice parcels)

Before dawn on Buddhist holy days and during Ok Phansa at the end of the rains retreat, families in central Thailand tie bundles of these parcels in pairs to give to monks on their alms round. Inside the leaf, glutinous rice cooked first in coconut milk wraps around half a small banana and a few black beans, then steams until the banana turns pink and jammy. Eat them warm or at room temperature for breakfast. Chef's tip: wrapping too tightly is the common mistake; the rice swells as it steams, so leave a little room or the parcels burst.

120 minThaiDessertsVeganGluten free
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Yam som o (pomelo salad)

Pomelos from Nakhon Chai Si, west of Bangkok, are prized for their dry, juicy segments, and when they come into season in late summer this salad appears on restaurant menus across the central plains. The segments are broken into bursting sacs and tossed with toasted coconut, crisp shallots and peanuts in a dressing of lime, palm sugar and nam prik pao, so it eats sweet, sour, nutty and only mildly hot. Restaurants usually add poached prawns, fish sauce and a chilli jam made with dried shrimp; this version uses tamari and a vegan nam prik pao so it suits everyone. Chef's tip: dress the pomelo just before serving and toss with your fingertips; stirring hard with a spoon bursts the sacs and leaves a watery bowl.

25 minThaiSaladsVeganGluten free
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Yam hua plee (banana blossom salad)

Banana trees grow in every back yard in central Thailand, and the purple blossom, shredded fine, turns into this crunchy, slightly astringent salad served at family gatherings and temple fairs. It is tossed with poached chicken and prawns in coconut cream, lime and nam prik pao, with toasted peanuts and crisp shallots, so it is creamy, sour and gently smoky. For a vegetarian version, use fried tofu instead of the meat, a vegan chilli jam and soy sauce instead of fish sauce. Chef's tip: drop each shredded handful straight into lime water as you cut; banana blossom left in the air turns black within a minute.

40 minThaiSaladsGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Foi thong (golden threads)Egg yolk threads

Ayutthaya's royal kitchens learned this sweet from Portuguese settlers in the seventeenth century, and today stalls along the old city's riverside and wedding banquets across Thailand pile up the shining nests. Thin streams of yolk set in boiling syrup into glossy, rich, very sweet threads, eaten in small pieces with strong tea or coffee. Long threads are offered at weddings for a long marriage. The eggs are fully cooked in the syrup. Chef's tip: the mistake is letting the syrup thicken too far; keep topping it up with a splash of water so it stays thin enough for threads to stay separate.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Nam prik pao (Thai chilli jam)

Every Thai kitchen keeps a jar of this dark, glossy chilli jam: it goes into tom yum and yam salads, onto plain rice and omelettes, and Bangkok office workers spread it on toast. The chillies, shallots and garlic are fried until deeply golden, then cooked down with tamarind and palm sugar, so it tastes sweet, sour and smoky rather than just hot. Most shop jars contain dried shrimp and fish sauce; this one uses tamari and a little extra shallot for depth, so it is vegan. For the traditional version, fry 2 tbsp dried shrimp with the garlic and swap the tamari for fish sauce. Chef's tip: take the garlic out as soon as it turns pale gold; burnt garlic is the most common reason chilli jam tastes bitter.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Mee krob (crispy sweet noodles, jay style)

Old Bangkok's Phra Nakhon district made mee krob famous as a royal-banquet dish, and it still appears at festive Thai Chinese dinners: a tangle of rice vermicelli puffed in hot oil, then tossed in a sticky sweet-sour sauce. Classic shops fold in prawns, egg and pickled garlic; for the jay festival this version uses fried tofu and pickled ginger, with orange zest standing in for the rare som sa citrus. Serve it with fresh bean sprouts and chilli. Chef's tip: the common mistake is a hot glaze, which wilts the noodles; cool the sauce until thick and toss just before serving.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Nom yen (pink milk)Pink iced milk

Thai drink stalls outside schools and markets keep a bottle of red sala syrup next to the condensed milk for this sweet, bubblegum-pink milk, a favourite of children from Bangkok to Hat Yai. Sala is a tangy palm fruit, and the syrup tastes of it lightly, almost like cream soda; any red sala-flavoured syrup from an Asian shop works. Shake it with ice until frothy. Chef's tip: the mistake is too much syrup, which turns it lurid and cloying; start with a tablespoon per glass and add more to taste.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Yam talay (Thai seafood salad)

Beach shacks on Koh Samet and along the Pattaya coast bring yam talay out in a heap, the seafood still warm, glistening with lime and fish sauce, and scattered with Chinese celery and onion. It is light and very sour, eaten with ice-cold drinks before the grilled fish arrives, or with rice for lunch. Use whatever is freshest; the mix below is easy to find. Chef's tip: poach each type of seafood separately and briefly; tipping everything in together overcooks the squid into rubber bands before the mussels open.

25 minThaiFishGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Khanom mo kaeng (Thai coconut custard cake)

Drive south from Bangkok and every roadside shop in Phetchaburi sells this dense custard in foil trays, because the province's sugar palms give it the palm sugar that defines it. Duck eggs, coconut cream and mashed taro bake into a firm, fudgy slab with a browned top, then a scattering of crisp fried shallots adds a savoury, sweet-onion crunch. Cut it in squares for an afternoon snack. Chef's tip: the common mistake is baking it too hot, which makes it puff and crack; bake low until just set, then brown the top under the grill.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Pad prik khing tao hoo (dry red curry tofu with long beans)Tofu and long bean stir-fry

Unlike soupy curries, prik khing is fried in oil until the paste clings to every bean, and in central Thai homes it is a lunch dish eaten with plenty of rice. For the jay festival the shop-bought paste, which carries garlic, shallot and shrimp paste, is swapped for this quick home paste of dried chilli, lemongrass, galangal and lime zest, so it stays vegan and free of alliums. Palm sugar and torn lime leaves round it off. Chef's tip: adding water to loosen the paste is the classic mistake; fry it in oil until it smells toasty and the dish stays dry and sticky.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Nam krachiap (roselle drink)

In the dry hot season Thai markets from Isan to Bangkok sell bags of this ruby drink tied with a straw, made from the dried calyces of the roselle plant grown in the northeast. It tastes like cranberry with a floral edge, sharply tart and only lightly sweet, with a pinch of salt to lift it. Drink it very cold; it keeps for days in the fridge. Chef's tip: the mistake is boiling the roselle for a long time, which turns it bitter and dull; simmer briefly and then let it steep off the heat.

20 minThaiDrinksVeganGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Yam nua (grilled beef salad)

Beer gardens and seafood restaurants around Bangkok put yam nua on the table as a drinking snack, but at home it is just as good with sticky or jasmine rice on a hot evening. Thick beef steak is grilled hard over charcoal, sliced and tossed while still warm with cucumber, tomato, onion, mint and coriander in a dressing that is very sour, salty and hot. Thai cooks often serve the beef quite rare; this recipe cooks it to medium so it is pink but not raw in the middle, which is safer for everyone at the table. Chef's tip: rest the steak before slicing and slice across the grain; cutting it straight off the grill floods the board with juice and leaves the strips chewy.

27 minThaiSaladsGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Nam jim seafood (green chilli-lime dipping sauce)

Seafood grills along the beach at Bang Saen and Hua Hin set a little bowl of this bright green sauce by every plate of grilled prawns, squid and crab. It is pounded, not blended, from garlic, green bird's-eye chillies and coriander root, then loosened with lime and fish sauce until it is sharp, salty, hot and barely sweet. Make it no more than a few hours ahead. For a vegetarian version to eat with grilled vegetables and tofu, use 2½ tbsp light soy sauce instead of the fish sauce. Chef's tip: don't use bottled lime juice; its flat, bitter edge takes over a sauce this simple.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Roti sai maiCandy floss crêpes

Ayutthaya's famous souvenir is sold from stalls along the road outside the city's hospital and old temples: a bag of soft, thin crêpes and a bag of pastel floss, to roll together yourself. The floss (sai mai, 'silk thread') is pulled sugar, finer and silkier than fairground candy floss, and melts on the tongue against the slightly salty, chewy crêpe. Pulling floss takes practice, so most home cooks buy it from Thai shops and make the crêpes fresh. Chef's tip: the classic mistake is wrapping the floss while the crêpe is hot; let the crêpes cool or the sugar melts into a sticky smear.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Thai green curry paste

Green curry is a central-plains dish, cooked in Bangkok shophouse kitchens and eaten over rice or khanom jeen noodles at lunch. Its paste uses fresh green chillies rather than dried red ones, so it tastes grassy, hot and citrusy, with cumin and white pepper underneath. Thai cooks would add kapi (shrimp paste) at the end; here yellow soybean paste gives the savoury depth so the paste is vegan, and 1 tsp roasted shrimp paste can go back in for the traditional version. Chef's tip: don't add water to get the blender going; a watery paste won't fry in coconut cream and the curry tastes flat. Use a spoonful of oil and patience instead.

38 minThaiBasicsVeganGluten freeSpicy
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Yam khai dao (fried egg salad)

Late-night aharn tam sang (cooked-to-order) shops in Bangkok make this in minutes for students and taxi drivers: eggs fried hard in hot oil until the whites blister and lace at the edges, then cut up and tossed with onion, Chinese celery, tomato and chilli in a tart dressing. The runny yolks melt into the dressing, so it is rich and sour at once; eat it with plain jasmine rice. Restaurants use fish sauce, but light soy (tamari here) keeps it vegetarian. Chef's tip: the oil must be really hot before the eggs go in; eggs fried gently in cool oil stay pale and rubbery and never get the crunchy frill that makes this salad.

18 minThaiSaladsGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

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