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Rellenong manokStuffed deboned chicken

Rellenong manok is a showpiece of the Filipino Noche Buena, the Christmas Eve feast after midnight Mass. A whole chicken is boned out, leaving the skin in one piece, then stuffed with a mixture of minced pork, sausage, raisins, carrot, cheese and whole hard-boiled eggs, sewn up and roasted. Sliced, every round shows the egg in the middle. Ask your butcher to bone the chicken if you prefer. Because the pork stuffing is inside, check that its centre reaches 74 °C. Chef's tip: chill the stuffed chicken for an hour before roasting so it keeps its shape.

210 min

Filipino Chicken

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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KipingLeaf-shaped rice wafers

Every 15 May, the town of Lucban in Quezon province celebrates San Isidro Labrador, patron of farmers, with the Pahiyas festival, when houses are covered in rice, vegetables and kiping: bright, translucent wafers of ground rice dough pressed onto leaves so they take the leaf's shape and veins, then dried. After the procession, the kiping are taken down and grilled or fried and eaten crisp, sometimes with sugar. This home version presses the dough thinly onto baking paper with a leaf-shaped cutter and the back of a clean banana leaf for texture. It is vegan and gluten free. Chef's tip: spread the dough as thin as you can, almost see-through, so it dries crisp.

60 min

Filipino Snacks & Starters

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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MechadoLarded beef braised in tomato

Mechado takes its name from the Spanish mecha, a wick, because large pieces of beef are threaded with strips of pork back fat before they go into the pot; as the beef braises the pork fat melts into the meat and keeps it moist. It is a fixture of Luzon town fiestas, often ladled from huge pots in the host family's yard, and its tomato, soy and calamansi sauce is tangy, savoury and slightly sweet. The beef should be tender enough to cut with a spoon, the potatoes soft and soaked in sauce. Serve with rice and atchara. Chef's tip: freeze the pork fat for 20 minutes before cutting; firm strips are much easier to push through the beef.

125 min

Filipino Curries

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Hamonado (pineapple-glazed pork)

Hamonado, from the Spanish word for ham, is how Pampanga cooks give pork a festive, ham-like sweetness for fiestas without curing it: thick slabs of pork belly braised in pineapple juice, brown sugar and soy until the sauce turns to a sticky, shining glaze. Kapampangans are famous for their sweet tooth and this is a celebration dish through and through, tender and fatty, sweet, salty and a little tangy from the pineapple. Serve it sliced with steamed rice and a sharp side like atchara or pickled cucumbers. Chef's tip: chill the braise and lift off the hardened fat before reducing the sauce; the glaze is cleaner and less greasy.

90 min

Filipino Meat

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Panutsa (Batangas peanut and cane-sugar candy)

In Batangas and Laguna, south of Manila, panutsa is the rustic peanut candy made from roasted peanuts and dark, unrefined cane sugar, traditionally poured into halved coconut shells to set into domes. It is sold at roadside stalls and town markets and eaten as a snack with the strong local barako coffee, often in the morning or mid-afternoon. It is hard and crunchy, with a deep molasses flavour and lots of nuts. Break it into pieces to serve, or grate it over rice cakes as a sweetener. Panutsa is naturally egg-free: the cane sugar, boiled to the soft-crack stage, sets hard as it cools and holds the peanuts in place. Chef's tip: have the moulds oiled and ready before the syrup goes on. The common mistake is pulling the syrup too early, which gives a sticky, bendy candy that never sets properly.

30 min

Filipino Desserts

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Atchara (pickled green papaya)

No town fiesta table in the Philippines is complete without a jar of atchara set beside the lechon, fried chicken and rich stews, because its sweet-sour crunch is what keeps people going back for another plate. Green papaya is grated, salted and squeezed, then packed with carrot, ginger, garlic and pepper under a hot brine of cane vinegar and sugar. Made a few days ahead and kept in the fridge, it is also the jar families bring as a small gift when they visit relatives for the fiesta. Serve it with any grilled or roast meat, fried fish or a plate of rice and eggs. Chef's tip: pick a papaya that is fully green and hard; even a little yellow means soft, sweet flesh that turns limp in the jar.

30 min

Filipino Chutneys & Dips

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Chicken afritadaChicken braised in tomato sauce

Afritada is one of the tomato stews of Luzon that are cooked in huge pots for town fiestas, and the gentlest of the family: chicken pieces simmered in a mild tomato sauce with potatoes, carrots and sweet peppers, with no liver or chilli. Its name points back to the Spanish word for frying, since the chicken is browned first. It is the stew children reach for at the fiesta table, red-orange, savoury and a little sweet, with tender chicken falling from the bone. Serve with steamed rice and a spoonful of atchara. Chef's tip: brown the chicken skin side down without moving it until it lifts easily from the pan; that colour flavours the whole sauce.

60 min

Filipino Chicken

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Relyenong alimango (stuffed crab shells)

Relyenong alimango is a showpiece for Luzon town fiestas, when crab is the luxury that tells guests the host has gone all out. Crab meat is sautéed with pork mince, tomato and vegetables, bound with egg and packed back into crab shells, then fried face down until a golden egg crust seals the top. This home version uses ready-cooked, pasteurised crab meat and cleaned crab shells (or ramekins or scallop shells), so there are no live crabs to deal with. It is sweet, savoury and rich; serve with banana ketchup or a vinegar and garlic dip and rice. Chef's tip: pick through the crab meat on a plate with your fingertips; any stray bit of shell spoils the soft filling.

90 min

Filipino Fish

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Chicken galantinaStuffed chicken roll

Galantina is Luzon's party roll for town fiestas and big family feasts, a Spanish-era cold dish in which chicken is wrapped around a filling of pork mince, ham, carrots, raisins and hard-boiled eggs, steamed, chilled and sliced so each round shows the eggs in the middle. Unlike embutido, which is a pork meatloaf, here the chicken skin and meat form the outer layer. Traditional cooks bone a whole chicken; this home version rolls boneless thighs instead, which is far easier. Serve it cold on a platter with banana ketchup or mayonnaise and bread. Chef's tip: roll it tightly in baking paper and foil and twist the ends like a sweet; a tight roll is what gives neat slices.

150 min

Filipino Chicken

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Ginataang mais (sweet corn coconut porridge)

Across the Philippines, ginataang mais turns up on the quiet, meatless days of Holy Week, when many families keep Good Friday as a day of fasting and abstinence and want something warm and simple to share in the afternoon. Glutinous rice swells in coconut milk until the pot turns thick and glossy, and sweet corn kernels pop through it with little bursts of sweetness. It is eaten warm from small bowls, sometimes with a swirl of extra coconut cream or crunchy toasted pinipig, and is just as good cold from the fridge the next day. Chef's tip: save the sugar until the rice is fully soft; added too early it slows the grains and they stay chalky in the middle.

40 min

Filipino Desserts

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Lengua estofado (braised ox tongue)

Lengua estofado is a Spanish-era special-occasion dish that Luzon families still cook for town fiestas, when it sits beside the lechon as the dish for people who know their food. An ox (beef) tongue is first simmered slowly until it is silky and tender, then peeled, sliced and finished in a tomato sauce with mushrooms, olives and a touch of soy. The slices are soft, fine-grained and rich, almost buttery, and the sauce is glossy and savoury. Serve with rice or warm pandesal to mop up the sauce. Chef's tip: the tongue is done when a skewer slides into the thickest part with no resistance; under-cooked tongue is chewy however long you braise the slices afterwards.

180 min

Filipino Meat

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Filipino pocheroPork stew with bananas and chickpeas

Pochero is the Filipino descendant of the Spanish puchero, cooked for fiestas in Manila and across the Visayas, and it is easy to tell apart: tomatoes turn the broth rosy and sweet saba bananas go in beside the pork, chickpeas and vegetables. This version uses pork shoulder simmered until tender, with cabbage, green beans and sweet potato added near the end so they stay bright. The broth is savoury and slightly sweet, the bananas soft and caramelised. Serve in deep bowls with rice, and some families add a sauce of mashed sweet potato and garlic on the side. Chef's tip: fry the bananas first and add them only at the end, so they hold their shape.

120 min

Filipino Curries

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Paksiw na lechonRoast pork in vinegar liver sauce

The day after a Luzon town fiesta, every household with leftover lechon makes paksiw: the roast pork, skin and all, is stewed in vinegar, garlic and the sweet liver-based lechon sauce until it falls apart into a dark, tangy-sweet stew. At home you can use any leftover roast pork, roast pork belly or lechon kawali. The skin softens and turns sticky, the meat soaks up the sauce, and many people think it is better than the roast itself. Serve with plenty of rice. Chef's tip: use roast pork that has been kept in the fridge and is no more than 2 days old, and reheat the stew until it is steaming hot right through, 75 °C.

60 min

Filipino Meat

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Krathong thong (crispy golden cups with chicken)

Krathong thong, "golden baskets", are named after the little floating krathong set on the rivers at Loy Krathong in Central Thailand, and their golden colour makes them a party bite for wishing wealth at festivals and New Year gatherings. A thin rice-flour batter is fried on a hot flower-shaped mould into crisp, delicate cups that shatter at the first bite. The filling is minced chicken cooked with sweetcorn, carrot, garlic and a little sugar, so it is gently sweet and savoury, which children love. Serve them as a starter with a sweet chilli dip, filling the cups just before serving so they stay crisp. Chef's tip: the cups keep for a week in an airtight tin, so fry them a day ahead and only cook the filling on the day.

60 min

Thai Snacks & Starters

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Kluay tak (Thai dried bananas, oven method)

In Bang Krathum, a district of Phitsanulok in lower northern Thailand, small nam wa bananas are peeled and laid out under the sun in glass-roofed drying boxes for several days, then pressed flat to make kluay tak. The district is famous for them, and bags are bought as a gift on the road home and nibbled with tea or coffee in the afternoon. They are dense and chewy like a soft toffee, dark amber, with a deep caramel and honey flavour that comes only from the fruit. As sun-drying takes days and needs steady heat, this version uses a very low oven overnight, then a rest in a jar so the moisture evens out. They are naturally egg-free and need nothing to bind them: the banana's own sugars concentrate and hold it together. Chef's tip: keep the oven low and prop the door open with a wooden spoon; the common mistake is a hot oven, which cooks and blackens the outside while the centre stays wet.

1340 min

Thai Desserts

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Dinuguan (pork blood stew)

Dinuguan is cooked all over the Philippines whenever a pig is prepared for a town fiesta, a way of honouring the animal by using every part; here it is made with diced pork shoulder and belly. The pork is simmered with garlic and vinegar, then finished with fresh pig's blood, which turns the sauce smooth, almost black and rich, with a sharp, savoury tang and the heat of long green chillies. It is eaten with soft white puto (steamed rice cakes) or rice, and children are sometimes told it is 'chocolate meat'. Chef's tip: buy fresh pig's blood from a butcher on the day you cook, keep it cold in the fridge and use it the same day.

75 min

Filipino Curries

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Khao niao daeng (Thai red sticky rice)

Khao niao daeng, "red sticky rice", is made in Central Thailand in the days before Songkran and carried to the temple as an offering, its sticky grains a wish that family ties hold fast through the year. The rice is steamed first, then folded into a long-reduced coconut and palm sugar caramel until it turns a glossy red-brown and every grain is sweet, chewy and fragrant. Pressed into a tray, it slices neatly and keeps for a few days, so it is a good make-ahead sweet for a crowd. Serve squares with a sprinkle of toasted sesame and a cup of tea. Chef's tip: reduce the caramel until it is thick and bubbling slowly before the rice goes in, or the rice turns mushy instead of chewy.

90 min

Thai Desserts

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