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412 recipes

Ginisang sardinasSautéed sardines with egg

Ginisang sardinas is everyday Filipino home cooking, especially in the rainy season and towards the end of the month when the budget is tight: a tin or two of sardines in tomato sauce sautéed with garlic, onion and fresh tomato, then stretched with egg. It's eaten for dinner with plenty of hot rice; some families add misua noodles to make it a soup. The common mistake is stirring too much once the sardines are in, which breaks them into mush. Chef's tip: fry the garlic until just golden before anything else goes in; that toasty garlic is what makes the tin taste homemade.

11 min

Filipino Fish

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Corned beef guisadoSautéed corned beef and potato

In Manila and all over the Philippines, a tin of corned beef in the cupboard means dinner is never more than 15 minutes away. Corned beef guisado is the beef fried with lots of garlic, onion and small cubes of potato until the edges crisp, and it's eaten with garlic rice and a fried egg for breakfast or with plain rice for a fast weeknight supper. The common mistake is cutting the potato too big, so it's still hard when the beef is ready; keep the cubes to 1 cm. Chef's tip: once the beef is in, leave it alone for a minute or two so it catches and crisps on the bottom before you stir.

15 min

Filipino Meat

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Ginisang repolyoSautéed cabbage and carrot

Ginisang repolyo is the budget-friendly side every Filipino family seems to know, cooked on a weekday evening in Manila or Davao to stretch a meal with plenty of rice. Shredded cabbage and carrot are sautéed with garlic and onion and seasoned with soy until just wilted, sweet and still crunchy. Cooks often add pork, shrimp or sliced hot dog; add fried tofu instead if you want it more filling and vegetarian. The common mistake is cooking the cabbage until it sags and smells sulphurous; stop while the shreds are still bright and springy. Chef's tip: give the carrot a minute alone in the pan first, because it takes longer than the cabbage to soften.

14 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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Ginisang upoSautéed bottle gourd

Ginisang upo is humble everyday food in Filipino homes, especially in the provinces where upo (bottle gourd) climbs over backyard trellises: the pale gourd is sautéed with garlic, onion and tomato until just tender and juicy, then eaten with rice for lunch or a light supper. Families often add ground pork, shrimp or fish sauce; this vegan version leans on tomato and a little salt and pepper. The common mistake is cutting the gourd into thick chunks, which take too long and go watery; thin half-moons cook in minutes. Chef's tip: don't add water at the start, because the upo releases plenty of its own juice once salted.

15 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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Ginisang pechaySautéed bok choy

Ginisang pechay is a no-fuss Filipino weeknight vegetable, cooked in homes from Manila to Cebu to go with rice and a piece of fried fish or tofu. Bok choy (pechay) is sautéed in the classic Filipino base of garlic, onion and tomato, then seasoned with a dash of soy so the leaves turn glossy and the stems stay juicy. Many cooks add ground pork, shrimp or a splash of fish sauce; this version is vegan. The common mistake is covering the pan, which steams the pechay olive-grey; keep the lid off and cook fast. Chef's tip: cook the tomato until it slumps into a jammy sauce before the greens go in; that's where the flavour comes from.

11 min

Filipino Vegetarian

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Picana bolivianaBeef, chicken and corn stew

In Bolivia, picana is what families eat after the midnight Misa de Gallo on Christmas Eve: a big pot of beef, chicken and sometimes lamb or pork simmered with corn on the cob, potatoes, carrots, raisins and spices, traditionally finished with a little wine and sugar for a sweetish broth. Each bowl holds a piece of every meat and a chunk of corn. Here the wine is optional; use extra stock and a spoon of grape juice for an alcohol-free pot. Chef's tip: add the chicken after the beef has had its head start, so both are tender at the same moment.

180 minAndean Soups

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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KipingLeaf-shaped rice wafers

Every 15 May, the town of Lucban in Quezon province celebrates San Isidro Labrador, patron of farmers, with the Pahiyas festival, when houses are covered in rice, vegetables and kiping: bright, translucent wafers of ground rice dough pressed onto leaves so they take the leaf's shape and veins, then dried. After the procession, the kiping are taken down and grilled or fried and eaten crisp, sometimes with sugar. This home version presses the dough thinly onto baking paper with a leaf-shaped cutter and the back of a clean banana leaf for texture. It is vegan and gluten free. Chef's tip: spread the dough as thin as you can, almost see-through, so it dries crisp.

60 min

Filipino Snacks & Starters

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Rellenong manokStuffed deboned chicken

Rellenong manok is a showpiece of the Filipino Noche Buena, the Christmas Eve feast after midnight Mass. A whole chicken is boned out, leaving the skin in one piece, then stuffed with a mixture of minced pork, sausage, raisins, carrot, cheese and whole hard-boiled eggs, sewn up and roasted. Sliced, every round shows the egg in the middle. Ask your butcher to bone the chicken if you prefer. Because the pork stuffing is inside, check that its centre reaches 74 °C. Chef's tip: chill the stuffed chicken for an hour before roasting so it keeps its shape.

210 min

Filipino Chicken

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Rosero quiteñoChilled spiced fruit and corn drink

Rosero is a festive drink of Quito in Ecuador, made for Corpus Christi in June, when the city once filled with processions and dancers. It is thick and refreshing: whole hominy (mote) and a thin purée of naranjilla (lulo) and pineapple, sweetened with sugar, spiced with cinnamon, cloves and allspice, and perfumed with orange-blossom water and rose petals, then served chilled in tall glasses with diced fruit. Frozen naranjilla pulp is sold in Latin shops. It is vegan. Chef's tip: simmer the pineapple peel with the spices for the syrup, as Quiteño cooks do; it adds a lot of flavour.

70 minAndean Drinks

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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MechadoLarded beef braised in tomato

Mechado takes its name from the Spanish mecha, a wick, because large pieces of beef are threaded with strips of pork back fat before they go into the pot; as the beef braises the pork fat melts into the meat and keeps it moist. It is a fixture of Luzon town fiestas, often ladled from huge pots in the host family's yard, and its tomato, soy and calamansi sauce is tangy, savoury and slightly sweet. The beef should be tender enough to cut with a spoon, the potatoes soft and soaked in sauce. Serve with rice and atchara. Chef's tip: freeze the pork fat for 20 minutes before cutting; firm strips are much easier to push through the beef.

125 min

Filipino Curries

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Hamonado (pineapple-glazed pork)

Hamonado, from the Spanish word for ham, is how Pampanga cooks give pork a festive, ham-like sweetness for fiestas without curing it: thick slabs of pork belly braised in pineapple juice, brown sugar and soy until the sauce turns to a sticky, shining glaze. Kapampangans are famous for their sweet tooth and this is a celebration dish through and through, tender and fatty, sweet, salty and a little tangy from the pineapple. Serve it sliced with steamed rice and a sharp side like atchara or pickled cucumbers. Chef's tip: chill the braise and lift off the hardened fat before reducing the sauce; the glaze is cleaner and less greasy.

90 min

Filipino Meat

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Panutsa (Batangas peanut and cane-sugar candy)

In Batangas and Laguna, south of Manila, panutsa is the rustic peanut candy made from roasted peanuts and dark, unrefined cane sugar, traditionally poured into halved coconut shells to set into domes. It is sold at roadside stalls and town markets and eaten as a snack with the strong local barako coffee, often in the morning or mid-afternoon. It is hard and crunchy, with a deep molasses flavour and lots of nuts. Break it into pieces to serve, or grate it over rice cakes as a sweetener. Panutsa is naturally egg-free: the cane sugar, boiled to the soft-crack stage, sets hard as it cools and holds the peanuts in place. Chef's tip: have the moulds oiled and ready before the syrup goes on. The common mistake is pulling the syrup too early, which gives a sticky, bendy candy that never sets properly.

30 min

Filipino Desserts

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Atchara (pickled green papaya)

No town fiesta table in the Philippines is complete without a jar of atchara set beside the lechon, fried chicken and rich stews, because its sweet-sour crunch is what keeps people going back for another plate. Green papaya is grated, salted and squeezed, then packed with carrot, ginger, garlic and pepper under a hot brine of cane vinegar and sugar. Made a few days ahead and kept in the fridge, it is also the jar families bring as a small gift when they visit relatives for the fiesta. Serve it with any grilled or roast meat, fried fish or a plate of rice and eggs. Chef's tip: pick a papaya that is fully green and hard; even a little yellow means soft, sweet flesh that turns limp in the jar.

30 min

Filipino Chutneys & Dips

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Chicken afritadaChicken braised in tomato sauce

Afritada is one of the tomato stews of Luzon that are cooked in huge pots for town fiestas, and the gentlest of the family: chicken pieces simmered in a mild tomato sauce with potatoes, carrots and sweet peppers, with no liver or chilli. Its name points back to the Spanish word for frying, since the chicken is browned first. It is the stew children reach for at the fiesta table, red-orange, savoury and a little sweet, with tender chicken falling from the bone. Serve with steamed rice and a spoonful of atchara. Chef's tip: brown the chicken skin side down without moving it until it lifts easily from the pan; that colour flavours the whole sauce.

60 min

Filipino Chicken

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Kluay tak (Thai dried bananas, oven method)

In Bang Krathum, a district of Phitsanulok in lower northern Thailand, small nam wa bananas are peeled and laid out under the sun in glass-roofed drying boxes for several days, then pressed flat to make kluay tak. The district is famous for them, and bags are bought as a gift on the road home and nibbled with tea or coffee in the afternoon. They are dense and chewy like a soft toffee, dark amber, with a deep caramel and honey flavour that comes only from the fruit. As sun-drying takes days and needs steady heat, this version uses a very low oven overnight, then a rest in a jar so the moisture evens out. They are naturally egg-free and need nothing to bind them: the banana's own sugars concentrate and hold it together. Chef's tip: keep the oven low and prop the door open with a wooden spoon; the common mistake is a hot oven, which cooks and blackens the outside while the centre stays wet.

1340 min

Thai Desserts

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Krathong thong (crispy golden cups with chicken)

Krathong thong, "golden baskets", are named after the little floating krathong set on the rivers at Loy Krathong in Central Thailand, and their golden colour makes them a party bite for wishing wealth at festivals and New Year gatherings. A thin rice-flour batter is fried on a hot flower-shaped mould into crisp, delicate cups that shatter at the first bite. The filling is minced chicken cooked with sweetcorn, carrot, garlic and a little sugar, so it is gently sweet and savoury, which children love. Serve them as a starter with a sweet chilli dip, filling the cups just before serving so they stay crisp. Chef's tip: the cups keep for a week in an airtight tin, so fry them a day ahead and only cook the filling on the day.

60 min

Thai Snacks & Starters

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Relyenong alimango (stuffed crab shells)

Relyenong alimango is a showpiece for Luzon town fiestas, when crab is the luxury that tells guests the host has gone all out. Crab meat is sautéed with pork mince, tomato and vegetables, bound with egg and packed back into crab shells, then fried face down until a golden egg crust seals the top. This home version uses ready-cooked, pasteurised crab meat and cleaned crab shells (or ramekins or scallop shells), so there are no live crabs to deal with. It is sweet, savoury and rich; serve with banana ketchup or a vinegar and garlic dip and rice. Chef's tip: pick through the crab meat on a plate with your fingertips; any stray bit of shell spoils the soft filling.

90 min

Filipino Fish

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Dinuguan (pork blood stew)

Dinuguan is cooked all over the Philippines whenever a pig is prepared for a town fiesta, a way of honouring the animal by using every part; here it is made with diced pork shoulder and belly. The pork is simmered with garlic and vinegar, then finished with fresh pig's blood, which turns the sauce smooth, almost black and rich, with a sharp, savoury tang and the heat of long green chillies. It is eaten with soft white puto (steamed rice cakes) or rice, and children are sometimes told it is 'chocolate meat'. Chef's tip: buy fresh pig's blood from a butcher on the day you cook, keep it cold in the fridge and use it the same day.

75 min

Filipino Curries

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Paksiw na lechonRoast pork in vinegar liver sauce

The day after a Luzon town fiesta, every household with leftover lechon makes paksiw: the roast pork, skin and all, is stewed in vinegar, garlic and the sweet liver-based lechon sauce until it falls apart into a dark, tangy-sweet stew. At home you can use any leftover roast pork, roast pork belly or lechon kawali. The skin softens and turns sticky, the meat soaks up the sauce, and many people think it is better than the roast itself. Serve with plenty of rice. Chef's tip: use roast pork that has been kept in the fridge and is no more than 2 days old, and reheat the stew until it is steaming hot right through, 75 °C.

60 min

Filipino Meat

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