Acarajé with vegan vatapá

Step 1: The day before, cover the 1 ⅛ lb dried black-eyed peas with plenty of cold water and soak for 8–12 hours. They'll double in size.

Step 2: Peel the peas: blitz them in a food processor for a few 1-second pulses just to crack them, then tip into a big bowl of water and rub them between your palms. The loose skins float; pour them off and repeat 4–5 times until nearly all are gone. It's slow, but unpeeled peas make heavy, grey fritters.

Step 3: Drain well and grind the peas with the 1 onion in the food processor to a fine, thick paste, adding no more than 2–3 tbsp water. It should feel like smooth, stiff hummus, with no gritty bits.

Step 4: Make the vatapá while the paste rests. Blend the 2 ⅝ oz roasted unsalted peanuts, 2 ⅝ oz roasted cashews, 1 onion, 2 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp fresh ginger and 1 tomato with half the ¾ cup coconut milk until smooth.

Step 5: Whisk the 2 ⅛ oz rice flour into the 1 ¼ cups water and the rest of the ¾ cup coconut milk in a heavy pan until there are no lumps. Add the nut mixture and bring to a simmer over a medium-low heat, whisking.

Step 6: Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon and scraping the bottom, until it's thick, glossy and pulls away from the pan like soft mashed potato. Stir in the 3 tbsp dendê (red palm oil), 3 tbsp fresh coriander and 1 tsp salt in the last 2 minutes; it will turn golden-orange.

Step 7: Back to the bean paste: add the 1 tsp salt and beat it hard with a wooden spoon (or a stand mixer with the paddle) for 5–8 minutes, until it lightens in colour and looks fluffy. Drop a little into a glass of water: if it floats, it's ready; if it sinks, keep beating.

Step 8: Heat the 1 cup dendê (red palm oil) and 2 cups vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pan to 350°F. Use two large spoons to shape quenelles of paste about the size of an egg and slide them into the oil, 3 or 4 at a time.

Step 9: Fry for 6–8 minutes, turning once, until deep reddish-gold and crisp all over, and they sound hollow when tapped. Too-hot oil colours them before the middle cooks. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 10: To serve, split each acarajé almost in half like a bun and fill with a generous spoon of vatapá, then a spoon of vinagrete (tomato and onion salsa) and as much Bahian chilli sauce or chopped malagueta chillies in oil as you dare. Eat while hot and crisp.