Agra petha

Step 1: Peel the 2 ¼ lb ash gourd (white pumpkin, petha) thickly, removing the green layer under the skin, then scoop out the seeds and the spongy core. Cut the firm flesh into 4 cm cubes; you should have about 700 g.

Step 2: Prick every cube deeply and all over with a fork, on every side. This lets the lime water and syrup soak right through.

Step 3: Stir the 1 tbsp food-grade slaked lime (pickling lime, chuna) into the 6 ¼ cups cold water in a glass or steel bowl (not aluminium) and let it settle for 5 minutes. Pour off the clear water over the cubes, leaving the sediment behind, and soak for 8 hours. If using 1 tsp food-grade alum (fitkari) instead, dissolve it in the same water and soak for 2–3 hours.

Step 4: Drain and rinse the cubes under running water, then soak them in fresh water for 10 minutes. Repeat the rinsing and soaking 4–5 times until the cubes no longer feel slippery or smell chalky. Do not skip this.

Step 5: Boil the cubes in plenty of fresh water over medium-high heat for 10–15 minutes, until they turn slightly translucent and a fork goes in with little resistance. Drain well.

Step 6: In a wide pan, dissolve the 1 ⅓ lb sugar in the 1 ¼ cups water over medium heat, add the 1 tsp lemon juice, then the cubes. Simmer gently for 30–40 minutes, turning occasionally, until the cubes are completely translucent and the syrup is thick enough to form a single thread between your finger and thumb.

Step 7: Stir in the ½ tsp kewra water or rose water, then lift the cubes onto a wire rack. Leave them to dry for 2–3 hours, turning once, until a thin, dry sugar crust forms. Store in an airtight box for up to 2 weeks.