Apfelkraut

Step 1: Put the quartered 8 ⅞ lb apples (half sweet, half tart) in a very large pot with the 2 cups water. Cover and simmer for 30–40 minutes, stirring now and then, until they have fallen to a soft mush.

Step 2: Pour into a jelly bag or a colander lined with a damp tea towel over a bowl and let the juice drip out for 3–4 hours. Press gently at the end; Apfelkraut does not need to be crystal clear. You should have about 2 litres of juice.

Step 3: Pour the juice into a wide, heavy pan with the 2 tbsp lemon juice and boil steadily, uncovered, for 2–2½ hours. Skim off the foam, and stir more often as it thickens.

Step 4: In the last 20 minutes it darkens fast and can catch, so turn the heat down and stir constantly. It is ready when it is dark brown, the bubbles are large and slow, and a drop on a cold plate sets like honey. A common mistake is boiling it too far: it should still pour slowly while hot, because it stiffens a lot as it cools. You will have about 400 ml.

Step 5: Pour into hot sterilised jars and seal. It keeps for many months in the cupboard; once open, keep it in the fridge.